nomunic
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- East Coast
- Car(s)
- MK7
Yea they are fine, I have my mk7 still but I recently just borrowed a buddy’s s55 amg with the supercharged v8. Could likely be my next project.
7
Renrubicer: Purple Power
- Thread starter riceburner
- Start date
riceburner
Autocross Champion
- Location
- nice try PPNT
- Car(s)
- MK1 Tiguan
put my rear seats down and went for a drive. more pronounced road noise. still goes away while turning toward the right. must be the rear right wheel bearing, yeah? ordered both sides. get this shit done.
riceburner
Autocross Champion
- Location
- nice try PPNT
- Car(s)
- MK1 Tiguan
ordered a set of f.a.g. rear wheel bearings. upon removal of my passenger rear wheel bearing (which was DEFINITELY TOAST) I found out then and there that there are two different sizes for the center bore (30mm and 32mm). and i was dismayed to realize i got the 32mm set when i needed the 30.
went to autozone who came to the rescue and gave me a proper sized bearing which went right in. used the new hardware from the new set (Which likely renders it non-returnable... fuck me)
but at long last, that noise is GONE and i'm driving along with no horrible never ending road noise! it was a moment like a wet dream. sounds like my tires and wheels are in pretty good shape, no super uneven ungulations from wear and the wheels may not be all bent to shit after all.
but of course, the quieter the car becomes the more you hear other things, particularly lots of rear end rattling/squeaking from both from the rear upper/lower/training arms (which all bushings are basically toast) as well as the entire rear interior.
so, got right to work, took apart the whole rear 'boot' area, found plenty of old washers, nuts and bolts around the spare tire area. then put Noico 3mm butyl sound deadening all over the primed bare metal trunk which should work a treat.
then found out the '60' portion of the 60/40 split rear seat had tons of rattles - some of it comes from the center pass through mechanism so i removed that from the rear seat (2 30mm star bolts) and will be attempting to dismantle that to find the source but its pretty tight with no screws to access, just hard brittle thin clips all around. but it rattles constantly when tapping it and moving it around
the other main thing with the '60' rear seat is apparently the center passenger seatbelt - needed to be pulled out a bit and clipped in to not shake around every time i punched the seat lol.
otherwise tidied up all the roadside tools and stuffed them in socks prior to putting them back in their places, and put towels around where the spare tire contacts the floor (and squeaks) prior to tightening it the fuck down.
put some 3m clearbra around the rear seat 'clip/hooks' to help keep those from squeaking incessantly, and now i'm gonna check if the rear hatch is tight - the bumpstops may need adjusting, the 'latch' might need tightening, and the inner taillights/clips may need something.
this is the beautiful, iterative process of a car guy in his natural habitat losing his mind
went to autozone who came to the rescue and gave me a proper sized bearing which went right in. used the new hardware from the new set (Which likely renders it non-returnable... fuck me)
but at long last, that noise is GONE and i'm driving along with no horrible never ending road noise! it was a moment like a wet dream. sounds like my tires and wheels are in pretty good shape, no super uneven ungulations from wear and the wheels may not be all bent to shit after all.
but of course, the quieter the car becomes the more you hear other things, particularly lots of rear end rattling/squeaking from both from the rear upper/lower/training arms (which all bushings are basically toast) as well as the entire rear interior.
so, got right to work, took apart the whole rear 'boot' area, found plenty of old washers, nuts and bolts around the spare tire area. then put Noico 3mm butyl sound deadening all over the primed bare metal trunk which should work a treat.
then found out the '60' portion of the 60/40 split rear seat had tons of rattles - some of it comes from the center pass through mechanism so i removed that from the rear seat (2 30mm star bolts) and will be attempting to dismantle that to find the source but its pretty tight with no screws to access, just hard brittle thin clips all around. but it rattles constantly when tapping it and moving it around
the other main thing with the '60' rear seat is apparently the center passenger seatbelt - needed to be pulled out a bit and clipped in to not shake around every time i punched the seat lol.
otherwise tidied up all the roadside tools and stuffed them in socks prior to putting them back in their places, and put towels around where the spare tire contacts the floor (and squeaks) prior to tightening it the fuck down.
put some 3m clearbra around the rear seat 'clip/hooks' to help keep those from squeaking incessantly, and now i'm gonna check if the rear hatch is tight - the bumpstops may need adjusting, the 'latch' might need tightening, and the inner taillights/clips may need something.
this is the beautiful, iterative process of a car guy in his natural habitat losing his mind
riceburner
Autocross Champion
- Location
- nice try PPNT
- Car(s)
- MK1 Tiguan
holy sheep shit this car is driving more mint than ever! so excited. very nice quiet ride - i'm sure doing all the rear control arms will help even more, of course.
i got the rear pass-through disassembled - what a pain in the ass! but i got it, and definitely the 'latch' assembly that allows the pass-through to open is the culprit - between tolerances of the assembly itself as well as the assembly against the plastic. so, wrapping it up in tessa tape and some other stuff ought to shut it the fuck up. then i might focus on seeing if i can actually disassemle the rear '60' split itself (which looks even less promising) to see if i can shut the seatbelt up so i don't have to ghetto rig it like it is now.
currently planning on making a pass through the whole car over the next few weeks to identify and shut up the rest of the interior rattles - which, for a 15 year old GTI are NOT too bad, now that i already did most of the front dash/center console.
i got the rear pass-through disassembled - what a pain in the ass! but i got it, and definitely the 'latch' assembly that allows the pass-through to open is the culprit - between tolerances of the assembly itself as well as the assembly against the plastic. so, wrapping it up in tessa tape and some other stuff ought to shut it the fuck up. then i might focus on seeing if i can actually disassemle the rear '60' split itself (which looks even less promising) to see if i can shut the seatbelt up so i don't have to ghetto rig it like it is now.
currently planning on making a pass through the whole car over the next few weeks to identify and shut up the rest of the interior rattles - which, for a 15 year old GTI are NOT too bad, now that i already did most of the front dash/center console.
golfdave
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Scotland (U.K.)
- Car(s)
- Mk7 Golf GT Estate
My MK7 Golf does this when I have the hatch open for skis.....The slide latch that you pull just wobbles around..I might have to sort it!.....
I recently made my car even more quieter by adding some small amounts of strategically placed Dynamat..this whilst I had all the door cards off to sort the speaker & door arrestor "faults".....!!
How about fitting the Harmonic dampener to the rear subframe.....thats what those two holes are for...
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riceburner
Autocross Champion
- Location
- nice try PPNT
- Car(s)
- MK1 Tiguan
Hey its what i had on deck haha
riceburner
Autocross Champion
- Location
- nice try PPNT
- Car(s)
- MK1 Tiguan
ah yes i forgot that was a thing! never tried it on my mk6 but it may be a must on the '5, bearing that i do actually address the actual issues first anywayMy MK7 Golf does this when I have the hatch open for skis.....The slide latch that you pull just wobbles around..I might have to sort it!.....
I recently made my car even more quieter by adding some small amounts of strategically placed Dynamat..this whilst I had thee all the door cards off to sort the speaker & door arrestor "faults".....!!
How about fitting the Harmonic dampener to the rear subframe.....thats what those two holes are for...
1K0505563 for reference, thanks!
riceburner
Autocross Champion
- Location
- nice try PPNT
- Car(s)
- MK1 Tiguan
oh and sound deadening the rear pass through totally worked - it was a pain for sure and took lots of strategically placed tessa tape, electric tape, foam tape etc, but it does NOT rattle anymore, still works and no clips were broken, miraculously.
riceburner
Autocross Champion
- Location
- nice try PPNT
- Car(s)
- MK1 Tiguan
Continuing on with the sound deadening, i may finally be onto something on why the audi sounds like complete ass. These wires arent melted, and the casing arent gone but boy have the wires gotten hit before! Pretty concerning being so close to the fuel pump...
I still have no clue how this car is wired, beyond wiring coming from the head unit to the amp mounted behind the seat but beyond that dont know how it ties into the factory speakers
I still have no clue how this car is wired, beyond wiring coming from the head unit to the amp mounted behind the seat but beyond that dont know how it ties into the factory speakers
riceburner
Autocross Champion
- Location
- nice try PPNT
- Car(s)
- MK1 Tiguan
Fun mk5 facts incoming
Discovered a rough idle today. Trying to take the oil cap off had suction which is one way to test the pcv is bad. So ordering a new one. 02 sensor as well
But while i was in there i decided the oil filler cap extension didnt have to be there. Its there to extend up to the oem intake and just kinda snaps off with some persuasion, leaving another locking deal underneath.
Discovered a rough idle today. Trying to take the oil cap off had suction which is one way to test the pcv is bad. So ordering a new one. 02 sensor as well
But while i was in there i decided the oil filler cap extension didnt have to be there. Its there to extend up to the oem intake and just kinda snaps off with some persuasion, leaving another locking deal underneath.
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riceburner
Autocross Champion
- Location
- nice try PPNT
- Car(s)
- MK1 Tiguan
Chasing a new front end noise, any pointers?
Did recently:
Struts, including the top hats/strut bearings
Sway bar endlinks
Subframe deadset kit w new hardware
Control arms and bushings
Ball joints
Wheel bearings
Axles
Getting a creak over bumps mostly. Not so much with like low speed turning in parking lots and stuff.
Just went through everything and confirmed for tightness.
Undid sway bar endlinks and confirmed its not the sway bar bushings, greased them and wd40'd everything anyway.
Only things i havent replaced are the tie rods, steering rack and the sway bar bushings (which all seem fine)
Any pointers on what i could test? Anything im missing? Pretty sure we uggaduggad the strut bearings in but maybe its those?
Did recently:
Struts, including the top hats/strut bearings
Sway bar endlinks
Subframe deadset kit w new hardware
Control arms and bushings
Ball joints
Wheel bearings
Axles
Getting a creak over bumps mostly. Not so much with like low speed turning in parking lots and stuff.
Just went through everything and confirmed for tightness.
Undid sway bar endlinks and confirmed its not the sway bar bushings, greased them and wd40'd everything anyway.
Only things i havent replaced are the tie rods, steering rack and the sway bar bushings (which all seem fine)
Any pointers on what i could test? Anything im missing? Pretty sure we uggaduggad the strut bearings in but maybe its those?
jay745
What Would Glenn Danzig Do
- Location
- Slightly Outside Chicago
- Car(s)
- Mk6 racecar, Tacoma
I'd check the three bolts on top for the strut mounts
riceburner
Autocross Champion
- Location
- nice try PPNT
- Car(s)
- MK1 Tiguan
did, those are all nice and tight.
jay745
What Would Glenn Danzig Do
- Location
- Slightly Outside Chicago
- Car(s)
- Mk6 racecar, Tacoma
Grab a pry bar then and start tugging on shit underneath to see if you can reproduce it