Rear license plate screw size

[YYZ]

I went to the local hardware store to get some stainless steel screws to replace the mild steel rear license plate screws the dealership installed, but couldn't find a match. Does anyone know the thread pitch, so I can order some online? Thank you.

 

[SugarMouth]

The rear plate literally gets drilled into the bumper, there is no specific size. Just try to match what you have. I put my plate on myself and also did stainless screws. I just found a quality stainless screw and drilled the proper hole size as a pilot.

 

[Faceman]

Look on Amazon.

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[The Fed]

I went to the local hardware store to get some stainless steel screws to replace the mild steel rear license plate screws the dealership installed, but couldn't find a match. Does anyone know the thread pitch, so I can order some online? Thank you.

Go to an ACE Hardware store if you have one near you since they still sell individual screws. Or any other store that sells a variety of screws. Home Depot or Lowe's (maybe both now) only sell prepackaged fasteners. Take out one screw and go in and match it. I would also buy one size larger (thicker) if you plan on taking your plate off often, because eventually the hole will start to get bigger and the screw won't tight up. And make sure you don't tighten the screw too tight. Or place a piece of toothpick or twist tie in the hole then the screw. I still can't believe VW scrimped this much.

 

[The Fed]

Look on Amazon.

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Nothe many hardware stores there on LI?

 

[Faceman]

Nothe many hardware stores there on LI?

By me, plenty.

If someone has to ask on here, I presume that they don't.

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[Gogo GTI]

I like the twist tie idea. My license plate screws are always coming loose too.


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[akimmel]

Drill the holes out to 1/2in and attach the plate with wellnuts and stainless cap screws. Super clean look, solid attachment, and it spaces the plate off the paint so it won't scratch or rub.

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Edit:here is a pic of mine. Plate is only touching the rubber wellnut underneath. Screws and washers are stainless, wellnuts are rubber and brass so nothing to rust.

 

[YYZ]

It really shocked me when I found out that the dealerships just line it up by eye and screw directly into the bumper with self tapping screws. Everything else on this car is well thought out and upscale, but that just seems like a hack job, especially when you unscrew the plate and see what it looks like underneath.



I was hoping VW dealers used the same size screw every time and it's disappointing it's not a specific size. I did see the stainless VW screws on Amazon, but according to a response by the seller in the comments, they're M6 screws. I measured the diameter of mine last night and they're somewhere in the 4.5mm- 4.7mm range and 13mm long. 13mm is about 1/2", so it's possible the dealership used SAE screws. I'll call them on Monday.



ACE Hardware is where I went yesterday. That's where I've gone for years to buy stainless screws, but nothing matched up with what I have. In cases like this, I've had great luck with Chinese sellers on eBay, believe it or not. For some reason, they have sizes you can't find anywhere else, and it's dirt cheap.



If it turns out to be M5, I'll order these:


https://www.ebay.com/itm/M5-304-A2-...hash=item1ed8149f70:m:mnEW4ZkX1LzH-asKgmcEQGw


I really don't want to step up to a larger size until the threads strip. If that happens, I really like the idea of wellnuts. Thank you, akimmel! However, I'm not sure I like the space behind the license plate, even though it protects the paint. Doesn't it rattle?

 

[akimmel]

I can understand not wanting to enlarge the holes any more than they already are, I definitely cringed myself when I drilled the bumper. The plate does not rattle, however if it was bent inwards a bit it might. Currently it is closer at the top than the bottom so it doesn't touch. If you really wanted you could use all 4 holes but that seems overboard to me

Here is a pic from underneath. As you can see nothing touches the paint except rubber. And the plate is only spaced off by 3-4mm

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[Sub-to-Dub]

I also had issues with the screws loosening (not to mention my dealer installed the plate more than an inch off center) so I decided to try this bracket.

It attaches to the car with two well nuts (purchased separately) and the plate secures to the bracket with four screws. It keeps the plate secure, off the paint, and doesn't rattle. It's certainly not necessary but it felt a little cleaner setup versus drilling into the bumper again.

As akimmel mentioned, well nuts and corresponding screws would also be a good way to go.

 

[Faceman]

I also had issues with the screws loosening (not to mention my dealer installed the plate more than an inch off center) so I decided to try this bracket.

It attaches to the car with two well nuts (purchased separately) and the plate secures to the bracket with four screws. It keeps the plate secure, off the paint, and doesn't rattle. It's certainly not necessary but it felt a little cleaner setup versus drilling into the bumper again.

As akimmel mentioned, well nuts and corresponding screws would also be a good way to go.

The Golf Sportwagen rear plate frame looks very similar.

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[eurospek]

I told my dealer not to drill anything. My plate is held on with 3m double side exterior tape.

 

[YYZ]

I can understand not wanting to enlarge the holes any more than they already are, I definitely cringed myself when I drilled the bumper. The plate does not rattle, however if it was bent inwards a bit it might. Currently it is closer at the top than the bottom so it doesn't touch. If you really wanted you could use all 4 holes but that seems overboard to me

Here is a pic from underneath. As you can see nothing touches the paint except rubber. And the plate is only spaced off by 3-4mm

I didn't realize it was angled out that much. I did a search for stainless steel well nuts, because I don't like the fact that they just have zinc coated centers. At first I saw some results for rivet nuts that sounded like a good idea, but if you don't install them properly, they might not stay in. What I might end up going with are stainless jack nuts:


https://topqualityinstrument.wordpress.com/2016/12/15/blind-jack-nut-stainless-steel/



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdnuMrTyXAo


I've also seen something called plusnuts mentioned, but they look like jack nuts. I'm not sure what the difference is.

I also had issues with the screws loosening (not to mention my dealer installed the plate more than an inch off center) so I decided to try this bracket.

It attaches to the car with two well nuts (purchased separately) and the plate secures to the bracket with four screws. It keeps the plate secure, off the paint, and doesn't rattle. It's certainly not necessary but it felt a little cleaner setup versus drilling into the bumper again.

As akimmel mentioned, well nuts and corresponding screws would also be a good way to go.

I like that better than the Volvo ones people use.

I told my dealer not to drill anything. My plate is held on with 3m double side exterior tape.

I wish I had known this in advance. I still have a temporary plate on my car and I could have used some mild tape to hold it on until I found a better solution. It's even, though. Once I get rid of those self-tapping screws it will be fine.

 

[MK7Boostedbliss]

The plastic black license plate base shown in this thread is Bmw part # 51-18-8-238-061. Sold countless... and yes I know that off hand lol.

there’s a cheaper vendor on amazon too. I might go this route as well. Finally got my plates today and wasn’t happy with the holes in the bumper and that’s it.