RacingLine Golf MK7 Oil Cooler

[GTIfan99]

So jealous. Today i was 275 the whole day up to 280 and that's with the heater on. I ended up running 3rd instead of 2nd in the slower sections, which didn't affect my time much but kept me at 275. They again it was 106°

Change that oil.

 

[scrllock]

That's after using the oil cooler you linked?

yeah. well, the one with the sandwich plate that bobivy linked. I like to drive the car in the cold as long as there's not salt on the road, so I like having the thermostat.

 

[whitebishop]

I have read practically all the posts but one thing is not clear to me so I am asking here.

I bought a used RL kit without the filter housing and cap for very little money and I was wondering if it was possible to mount an "oc 295" type filter.

From what I've read on this post yes, but I can't understand one thing about this cursed "auction" in the picture.

What exactly is it for?

that is, let me explain, I would like to understand if when I mount everything (radiator + pipes + and RL oil pressure valve) with the BRZ or "oc 295" filter on top, I need to mount that too because I really don't understand its usefulness.


Is there anyone who can clarify this for me?

Also can you explain to me what that "rod" is for?

 

[bobivy1234]

I have read practically all the posts but one thing is not clear to me so I am asking here.

I bought a used RL kit without the filter housing and cap for very little money and I was wondering if it was possible to mount an "oc 295" type filter.

From what I've read on this post yes, but I can't understand one thing about this cursed "auction" in the picture.

What exactly is it for?

that is, let me explain, I would like to understand if when I mount everything (radiator + pipes + and RL oil pressure valve) with the BRZ or "oc 295" filter on top, I need to mount that too because I really don't understand its usefulness.


Is there anyone who can clarify this for me?

Also can you explain to me what that "rod" is for?

Rod/stick is an updated OEM part that pushes right into the oil filter drain hole. As far as the filter on top of the sandwich plate, as long as something fits the fitment bolt then I don't see it being an issue. I've been using the stock RL metal filter without issue in the housing and other folks use cheap paper filters instead of the metal even though the metal is washable/reusable.

If you don't have the RL oil filter housing/cap at all, whatever filter fits on the bolt should be fine as long as it can seal the top of the sandwich plate.

 

[scrllock]

I have read practically all the posts but one thing is not clear to me so I am asking here.

I bought a used RL kit without the filter housing and cap for very little money and I was wondering if it was possible to mount an "oc 295" type filter.

From what I've read on this post yes, but I can't understand one thing about this cursed "auction" in the picture.

What exactly is it for?

that is, let me explain, I would like to understand if when I mount everything (radiator + pipes + and RL oil pressure valve) with the BRZ or "oc 295" filter on top, I need to mount that too because I really don't understand its usefulness.


Is there anyone who can clarify this for me?

Also can you explain to me what that "rod" is for?

Yes, it's possible. Your filter changes will be very messy.
The rod acts as a valve, with the OE housing it will unload as you twist it off and allow oil to drain back out of the filter, which is much cleaner. The sandwich plate adapters keep it pressed down, so it never releases which is why you get so much oil spilling out of your filter. The RL housing is slightly better in that you don't have to take the full thing off.

 

[bobivy1234]

Yes, it's possible. Your filter changes will be very messy.
The rod acts as a valve, with the OE housing it will unload as you twist it off and allow oil to drain back out of the filter, which is much cleaner. The

Very good point, I have to very carefully take off the RL filter top to not have oil getting everywhere and then turkey baster it out once the filter is out and the main housing stays screws in.

 

[whitebishop]

L'asta/bastone è una parte OEM aggiornata che si inserisce direttamente nel foro di scarico del filtro dell'olio. Per quanto riguarda il filtro sopra la piastra sandwich, fintanto che qualcosa si adatta al bullone di montaggio, non vedo che sia un problema. Ho usato il filtro metallico RL di serie senza problemi nell'alloggiamento e altre persone usano filtri di carta economici invece del metallo anche se il metallo è lavabile/riutilizzabile.

Se non si dispone affatto dell'alloggiamento / tappo del filtro dell'olio RL, qualunque filtro si adatti al bullone dovrebbe andare bene purché possa sigillare la parte superiore della piastra sandwich.

thanks a lot for the answer,

so can you confirm that any filter similar to "OC 295" or for example is fine without that rod?

I have 2 more questions for you.

What is the precise function of that thing? can you explain it to me?

instead of the "thermostatic" of the racingline I wanted to put a real thermostatic of the mocal at 80°, confirm that it is plug and play, right?

sorry my english i'm not native speaker, i'll try to understand as much as possible.

 

[scrllock]

thanks a lot for the answer,

so can you confirm that any filter similar to "OC 295" or for example is fine without that rod?

I have 2 more questions for you.

What is the precise function of that thing? can you explain it to me?

instead of the "thermostatic" of the racingline I wanted to put a real thermostatic of the mocal at 80°, confirm that it is plug and play, right?

sorry my english i'm not native speaker, i'll try to understand as much as possible.

no, always use the rod. it's equivalent to an anti-drain back valve. keeps oil near the head on start-up.

yes, if you follow the parts that @bobivy1234 posted you can swap to a real thermostat. m20x1.5 thread pitch with the 25mm spacer for the BRZ will allow it to fit the lower RL adapter on our cars. mocal SP1F-FA20. may or may not come with the right m22 to AN adapter for your lines, -10AN would work with the RL kit lines.

 

[bobivy1234]

thanks a lot for the answer,

so can you confirm that any filter similar to "OC 295" or for example is fine without that rod?

I have 2 more questions for you.

What is the precise function of that thing? can you explain it to me?

instead of the "thermostatic" of the racingline I wanted to put a real thermostatic of the mocal at 80°, confirm that it is plug and play, right?

sorry my english i'm not native speaker, i'll try to understand as much as possible.

Keep the rod, you need the rod to put into your oil return hole under the filter, can't leave it out. I run a Mocal 185deg sandwich plate thermostat so no issue there, you'll need a BRZ spacer for a Mocal thermostat as detailed in this thread and is what I use. Here's the Amazon link of what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGDKH9T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[whitebishop]

Keep the rod, you need the rod to put into your oil return hole under the filter, can't leave it out. I run a Mocal 185deg sandwich plate thermostat so no issue there, you'll need a BRZ spacer for a Mocal thermostat as detailed in this thread and is what I use. Here's the Amazon link of what I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PGDKH9T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

isn't it enough to simply remove the "thermostatic RL" and install the mocal one instead of the rl?

However as far as I can see there are 2 schools of thought, some tell me it's okay to hold the fore-end and some don't.


I take a step back, I try to explain my question.

After finding this bartek kit https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/2-0l-tsi-oil-cooler-ea888-mqb-kit-v2

I noticed that in the description they talk about buying a new rod, even strengthened this one here https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/oil-riser-1-8-l-2-0-l-tsi-ea888


so as a result I started thinking:

wanting to use the oil filter similar to "oc 295" or the proprietary bartek one, as the bartek experts say, I need to put the rod.


But reading here on the group more than someone as far as I understand has not mounted it and had no problems.

so in my head I can't figure out if this rod is functional or not in the success of the project.


Also, now that I think about it, I have a question about oil pressure.

I imagine that with the open circuit, the oil pressure goes a little down or am I wrong? Is this something bothering you or is there a change to the oil pump?

 

[bobivy1234]

isn't it enough to simply remove the "thermostatic RL" and install the mocal one instead of the rl?

However as far as I can see there are 2 schools of thought, some tell me it's okay to hold the fore-end and some don't.


I take a step back, I try to explain my question.

After finding this bartek kit https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/2-0l-tsi-oil-cooler-ea888-mqb-kit-v2

I noticed that in the description they talk about buying a new rod, even strengthened this one here https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/oil-riser-1-8-l-2-0-l-tsi-ea888


so as a result I started thinking:

wanting to use the oil filter similar to "oc 295" or the proprietary bartek one, as the bartek experts say, I need to put the rod.


But reading here on the group more than someone as far as I understand has not mounted it and had no problems.

so in my head I can't figure out if this rod is functional or not in the success of the project.


Also, now that I think about it, I have a question about oil pressure.

I imagine that with the open circuit, the oil pressure goes a little down or am I wrong? Is this something bothering you or is there a change to the oil pump?

Not 100% following so main highlights are:

1) You need to keep the newer oil drain return rod that you got (Oil Filter Housing Adapter), specifically OEM number 06L-115-678-Q
2) The Mocal thermostat is wider compared to the RL included one, that's it. In order to fit in a Mk7 GTI/R, you need the BRZ style spacer to clear the intake manifold
3) The OC295 filter will work but due to the way to new Oil Filter Housing Adapter works which is required, it will be a mess to change filters since the oil won't drain back so just be forewarned
-> This is because the oil filter adapter that comes with these kits keeps that rod pushed down unless you remove the whole housing which you wouldn't want to do
-> On normal MK7 cars with the standard oil filter housing, that valve is relieved as you open the oil filter so it isn't a mess

 

[David111767]

Hi all,

While I don't have a MK7, I have added an oil cooler to my EA888.3 motor using the VWR oil filter adapter, Bar-Tek's thermostatic plate (200F thermostat insert) and VWR's cooler and lines. While the OC295 filter has been mentioned earlier, I might recommend using the Audi A3 e-tron 1.4L/VW Taos 1.5L oil filter as it is much easier to find stateside! Bar-Tek recommends the OC295/Bosch P3318, but the MANN W 712/95 / VW 04E115561T has the same thread and bypass valve pressure (2.5bar).

https://catalog.mann-filter.com/NA/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Nordamerika/Oil Filter/W 712~95

Edit: Wrong revision number on the VW part, H>T

 

[scrllock]

Hi all,

While I don't have a MK7, I have added an oil cooler to my EA888.3 motor using the VWR oil filter adapter, Bar-Tek's thermostatic plate (200F thermostat insert) and VWR's cooler and lines. While the OC295 filter has been mentioned earlier, I might recommend using the Audi A3 e-tron 1.4L/VW Taos 1.5L oil filter as it is much easier to find stateside! Bar-Tek recommends the OC295/Bosch P3318, but the MANN W 712/95 / VW 04E115561T has the same thread and bypass valve pressure (2.5bar).

https://catalog.mann-filter.com/NA/eng/catalog/MANN-FILTER Katalog Nordamerika/Oil Filter/W 712~95

Edit: Wrong revision number on the VW part, H>T

Also 030115561E, these weren't too hard to find stateside. I have a box of 9 or 10 if anyone needs one.