Hey all, my 2016 R just blew its clutch at 56k and is going into the shop for a new one. While it's there is there anything else I should have replaced?
I've read rear main seal since the trans is out and also the water pump is usually due around this time. Anything else to look at?
Not in the bell housing or anything but many folks also remove the clutch line restrictor. I have mixed feelings about the RMS - my prior GTI had major RMS issues but now I have a "dont fix it if it aint broke" outlook with the R.
Having stage 3 clutch put in Wednesday by a well regarded local VW shop. Their recommendation was also to not swap RMS seal unless it's leaking so I'll go with their suggestion.... Hopefully it's not just mechanics creating more future work for themselves lol
I was also wondering what other work to do at the time and decided on just clutch and downpipe
Could go 1 step further with removing the clutch delay valve and also replace the swirl valve, or whatever they call it, with a stainless clutch line from KMD tuning.
That's what my mechanic was saying about the RMS also, if it's not leaking then leave it alone. I already have the ECS bleeder block and I think the clutch line has been replaced as well. Sounds like there isn't much else to look at around the trans, mounts are already upgraded too.
The stock RMS is a known weak point. For what it costs to buy a stock or aftermarket version, it’s worth doing it now rather than find out your current one is leaking later on.
My shop charged me an extra half hour for the RMS change.
The stock RMS is a known weak point. For what it costs to buy a stock or aftermarket version, it’s worth doing it now rather than find out your current one is leaking later on.
My shop charged me an extra half hour for the RMS change.
Maybe I haven't read enough but I haven't seen many complaints about the stock RMS. Most of what I've seen is if it's not leaking, leave it alone. I have an APR catch can setup and I've read a clogged PCV causes most of the RMS issues so if that's actually the case then I should be ok.
Maybe I haven't read enough but I haven't seen many complaints about the stock RMS. Most of what I've seen is if it's not leaking, leave it alone. I have an APR catch can setup and I've read a clogged PCV causes most of the RMS issues so if that's actually the case then I should be ok.
It’s not like an LSD where the question is “do I really need it coz it’s a pricey endeavour” With this one, you’re gonna need it at some point, since you’re replacing the clutch, might as well. It’s a relatively inexpensive part and additional labour.
Yeah the more I thought about it the more I figured I might as well, especially for resale value when a potential buyer looks at the paperwork and maintenance. I had the shop order the iAbed RMS along with the DKM Stage 2 kit.
+1 on the clutch line restrictor. I've noticed that in my GTI and my father's R (as well as a Mk6 GTI) that the clutch pedal was slow to come up on the track. In reality, it's almost certainly slow to come up all the time but I'm just not as aggressive/quick with my footwork on the street. In any case, my father's R blew the clutch because the pedal actually got stuck. We've put the ECS bleeder block in both cars, and the clutch returns more freely in both cars now. You can also just pull the restrictor out of the stock part.
This is admittedly purely anecdotal, and someone who knows more about this can correct me, but it seems to me that the restrictor can lead to excessive wear on the clutch. In any case, it's either relatively inexpensive (ECS block) or free (pulling the restrictor out of the stock part) and worth doing on the off chance that you might end up ruining your new/expensive clutch. For whatever it's worth, ECS recommends pulling the restrictor on their SMF clutch kit (but they also sell the bleeder block, so grain of salt and all that).
I still wouldn't replace a good RMS. It's not like they all start leaking and replacing a good one just opens you up to the fact that it could start leaking...
