Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
Tach wire off coilpack 1
7
Quebster's Neverending Story - 2015 GTI S 6MT - The Good, the Bad, the End... and the Resurrection!
- Thread starter Quebster
- Start date
anotero
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Hither and thither
- Car(s)
- Mk7 GTI
Thanks for the review. And that is CRAZY fast delivery!
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
So in this past week I have:
- Removed and re-sealed the cam/valve cover (PITA)
- Replaced the upper timing cover with new one (PITA)
- Fixed a stripped tophat bolt by adding a washer & nut
- Replaced my Clubsport lip/splitter and reinforced with rivets
- Mounted my VWR oil cooler, but haven’t installed the adapter plate yet because I’m missing an upgraded OEM piece.
Test drive soon to see if my oil burning issues are resolved.
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- Removed and re-sealed the cam/valve cover (PITA)
- Replaced the upper timing cover with new one (PITA)
- Fixed a stripped tophat bolt by adding a washer & nut
- Replaced my Clubsport lip/splitter and reinforced with rivets
- Mounted my VWR oil cooler, but haven’t installed the adapter plate yet because I’m missing an upgraded OEM piece.
Test drive soon to see if my oil burning issues are resolved.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
Updates:
Oil was still seeping out of the upper timing cover and burning on the head, causing a terrible burnt-oil smell in the cabin, even after replacing the cover new. I don't know what it is, but I just can't seem to get it right. I actually may have been over-tightening.
Oh well, decided I'm tired of screwing with it, so I made a gasket for my gasket:
I'm going to drive the car off a cliff with me in it if it's still seeping. I also found out that my strut came loose making a horrible popping sound every time I'd go over a bump, so fixed that yesterday:
But then I put too many ugga duggas on the SuperPro endlink bolt and stripped it:
So now I'm trying to get them to send me a new piece for that. It's still drivable with the bit of torque I could get on the nut, but wouldn't take it to the track like that.
Also found that the plastic quick connect fuel line fittings that came with my Fuel-It! ethanol sensor are weak and bent up. So I replaced them with Precision Raceworks fittings since I have the rest of their fueling setup:
Random pic of the Mk7 being punished by sitting outside for giving me such a hard time:
Lastly, kicking it old-school with the Mk4 Monsoon system that has the cassette tape player, lol
I dream of the day that I can just worry about regular maintenance on the Mk7. Will it ever come? (Yes, I know I brought most of it on myself)
Oil was still seeping out of the upper timing cover and burning on the head, causing a terrible burnt-oil smell in the cabin, even after replacing the cover new. I don't know what it is, but I just can't seem to get it right. I actually may have been over-tightening.
Oh well, decided I'm tired of screwing with it, so I made a gasket for my gasket:
I'm going to drive the car off a cliff with me in it if it's still seeping. I also found out that my strut came loose making a horrible popping sound every time I'd go over a bump, so fixed that yesterday:
But then I put too many ugga duggas on the SuperPro endlink bolt and stripped it:
So now I'm trying to get them to send me a new piece for that. It's still drivable with the bit of torque I could get on the nut, but wouldn't take it to the track like that.
Also found that the plastic quick connect fuel line fittings that came with my Fuel-It! ethanol sensor are weak and bent up. So I replaced them with Precision Raceworks fittings since I have the rest of their fueling setup:
Random pic of the Mk7 being punished by sitting outside for giving me such a hard time:
Lastly, kicking it old-school with the Mk4 Monsoon system that has the cassette tape player, lol
I dream of the day that I can just worry about regular maintenance on the Mk7. Will it ever come? (Yes, I know I brought most of it on myself)
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Damn, would take me a year to complete half of your recent projects. And that is pretending I even know how to do any of it. 
Where did you get the PR fuel line fittings? I'm going to order the fuel it sensor kit and guess I'll skip their fittings. Don't see the PR ones on their site. How do they connect to the fuel line side?
Also have a more random question, what air compressor are you using to power air tools?
Where did you get the PR fuel line fittings? I'm going to order the fuel it sensor kit and guess I'll skip their fittings. Don't see the PR ones on their site. How do they connect to the fuel line side?
Also have a more random question, what air compressor are you using to power air tools?
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
Sorry for the delayed response. I reached out to Robert Preuss of Precision Raceworks directly and asked for them, and he sold them to me. I'm not sure if that's something he normally does or not, I've developed a pretty good relationship with the guy over the last year since I had one of his first Stage 4 fuel kits that was put together before they offered them on the site. But I would shoot him an e-mail or something like that.
I'm using a Husky "ultra-quiet" compressor... it's rated to 75db, but I changed out the filters and lowered it another ~10db. For being right next to me in the garage all the time, it's pretty damn quiet for a compressor.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...table-Electric-Air-Compressor-C302H/206695048
I'm using a Husky "ultra-quiet" compressor... it's rated to 75db, but I changed out the filters and lowered it another ~10db. For being right next to me in the garage all the time, it's pretty damn quiet for a compressor.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Husky-3...table-Electric-Air-Compressor-C302H/206695048
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No worries. Thanks man. I contacted PR on FB and was told they sell the fittings. Still waiting for a response on how to purchase as they're not on the website. I picked up a smaller compressor due to space but looking forward to adding air to the arsenal.
So is the oil still seeping out?
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
So check this out.
Scary, right? I did a series of health checks this week since I’ve been burning oil and smoking on engine deceleration, *only after boost*. I’ve been brainstorming all week, refusing to believe that my brand new turbo and/or motor is toast. After compression and leak down tests come out mostly good, (Cyl 1 was around 15% while the other 3 were 5% or less), and noticing some oil in cyl 1, I pop off the DP to find the above.. the turbo exhaust practically flooded in oil.
However, zero shaft play, turbine spins ultra smooth and free. Hmmm... I had been suspicious of my oil drain from turbo being blocked, maybe I messed up the gasket, but it was fine.
I then became very suspicious of my PCV system, even though I have VWR. Based on my specific symptoms, this started to seem more and more probable. “There’s no way it’s not your turbo,” they said, “you have VWR catch can, it’s not that,” they said... but I thought otherwise.
Today I put on my OEM PCV and guess what? Not a single bit of smoke. None. Lol. My VWR PCV plate somehow got messed up. Doing some more digging it turns out that apparently there is still some kind of flapper or diaphragm in the VWR plate that doesn’t handle big power builds as well. Spulen actually beat VWR on design on this one. Crazy, right?
The other big news is VW finally revised their PCV plate and it no longer is prone to heavy boost or oil surge issues, the whole reason I got a VWR can in the first place. So, I am just going back to OEM. No need for a can IMO.
https://www.europaparts.com/pressure-control-valve-06k103495bl.html
For the curious, here’s a great explanation I found of why the PCV can cause all the oil in the turbski:
"Oil leaks in the turbocharger may also, be the result of problems in the crankcase ventilation system. The vent or breather line may sometimes become clogged or restricted through engine operation. These conditions allow positive pressure to build up in the crankcase and restrict the oil from flowing down the drain hose and into the crank-case. This will cause oil to back up into the bearing housing and leak past the piston ring type seals."
I feel like I troubleshoot really well. It’s too soon to tell if this will solve my oil burn smell in the cabin issue, but if that was coming from the oil seeping out of the exhaust housing due to not being drained, then it should.
Kthxbye
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Scary, right? I did a series of health checks this week since I’ve been burning oil and smoking on engine deceleration, *only after boost*. I’ve been brainstorming all week, refusing to believe that my brand new turbo and/or motor is toast. After compression and leak down tests come out mostly good, (Cyl 1 was around 15% while the other 3 were 5% or less), and noticing some oil in cyl 1, I pop off the DP to find the above.. the turbo exhaust practically flooded in oil.
However, zero shaft play, turbine spins ultra smooth and free. Hmmm... I had been suspicious of my oil drain from turbo being blocked, maybe I messed up the gasket, but it was fine.
I then became very suspicious of my PCV system, even though I have VWR. Based on my specific symptoms, this started to seem more and more probable. “There’s no way it’s not your turbo,” they said, “you have VWR catch can, it’s not that,” they said... but I thought otherwise.
Today I put on my OEM PCV and guess what? Not a single bit of smoke. None. Lol. My VWR PCV plate somehow got messed up. Doing some more digging it turns out that apparently there is still some kind of flapper or diaphragm in the VWR plate that doesn’t handle big power builds as well. Spulen actually beat VWR on design on this one. Crazy, right?
The other big news is VW finally revised their PCV plate and it no longer is prone to heavy boost or oil surge issues, the whole reason I got a VWR can in the first place. So, I am just going back to OEM. No need for a can IMO.
https://www.europaparts.com/pressure-control-valve-06k103495bl.html
For the curious, here’s a great explanation I found of why the PCV can cause all the oil in the turbski:
"Oil leaks in the turbocharger may also, be the result of problems in the crankcase ventilation system. The vent or breather line may sometimes become clogged or restricted through engine operation. These conditions allow positive pressure to build up in the crankcase and restrict the oil from flowing down the drain hose and into the crank-case. This will cause oil to back up into the bearing housing and leak past the piston ring type seals."
I feel like I troubleshoot really well. It’s too soon to tell if this will solve my oil burn smell in the cabin issue, but if that was coming from the oil seeping out of the exhaust housing due to not being drained, then it should.
Kthxbye
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
Update:
Good news and bad news. Good news? After 1.5 years of the engine build, the power cut issue I've had with the tune has finally been resolved. It only took my previous tuner (613B6) to build his engine and have the problem himself before he took it to Tapp and the issue got the attention it needed, for which I am fairly bitter, but obviously glad it is resolved.
This issue wasn't consistent until I ported the head earlier this year. Any time I went WOT while already over 4.5k RPM, my power would cut in half. We found out that the ECU was detecting false preignition, basically noise from the upgraded forged Mahle pistons, from my understanding.
So now that that was fixed, and I fixed all my oil issues, things were really looking up for 2 whole days for the GTI. Then, my PR MPI rail backed off an injector, spraying fuel everywhere. Fortunately, no fire, though maybe it would've been better for this thing to burn to the ground, lol.
I was on my way to an annual show that's really the only show / Euro meet that I care about and like. Obviously I had to miss it. I managed to get the rail back on and zip tied enough to limp either to the show or home, but then found my LPFP wouldn't pump any fuel for no reason at all. (Later I found my Torqbyte controller died... ffs) While I was troubleshooting that, checking power lines and fusees and had everything out of the car and the doors open / windows down / fuse box exposed, I got slapped in the face with a massive wall of rain with literally no warning (Texas weather for you). Just instant downpour. Soaked absolutely everything.
Worse day I've had in a good while. The only good that came out of it was I managed to rig my 2nd pump to stay 100% on which let me get home. Well, that and the fact that the car didn't burn to the ground, I guess.
Anyway, I have a Euro intake manifold coming but it won't be here until Monday. So car is down, again, until then. Here are a couple of pics of getting her detailed the day before the show:
And here we have the engine bay, complete with my jimmy-rigged MPI rail and 2nd pump hack
Pics of fuel rail backed off:
Good news and bad news. Good news? After 1.5 years of the engine build, the power cut issue I've had with the tune has finally been resolved. It only took my previous tuner (613B6) to build his engine and have the problem himself before he took it to Tapp and the issue got the attention it needed, for which I am fairly bitter, but obviously glad it is resolved.
This issue wasn't consistent until I ported the head earlier this year. Any time I went WOT while already over 4.5k RPM, my power would cut in half. We found out that the ECU was detecting false preignition, basically noise from the upgraded forged Mahle pistons, from my understanding.
So now that that was fixed, and I fixed all my oil issues, things were really looking up for 2 whole days for the GTI. Then, my PR MPI rail backed off an injector, spraying fuel everywhere. Fortunately, no fire, though maybe it would've been better for this thing to burn to the ground, lol.
I was on my way to an annual show that's really the only show / Euro meet that I care about and like. Obviously I had to miss it. I managed to get the rail back on and zip tied enough to limp either to the show or home, but then found my LPFP wouldn't pump any fuel for no reason at all. (Later I found my Torqbyte controller died... ffs) While I was troubleshooting that, checking power lines and fusees and had everything out of the car and the doors open / windows down / fuse box exposed, I got slapped in the face with a massive wall of rain with literally no warning (Texas weather for you). Just instant downpour. Soaked absolutely everything.
Worse day I've had in a good while. The only good that came out of it was I managed to rig my 2nd pump to stay 100% on which let me get home. Well, that and the fact that the car didn't burn to the ground, I guess.
Anyway, I have a Euro intake manifold coming but it won't be here until Monday. So car is down, again, until then. Here are a couple of pics of getting her detailed the day before the show:
And here we have the engine bay, complete with my jimmy-rigged MPI rail and 2nd pump hack
Pics of fuel rail backed off:
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Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
[emoji23][emoji23] I hope so... I’m real sad the Euro mani isn’t coming in until Monday. It’s like I got a taste of having a car with no problems for 2 days and it was taken away. It’s killing me!
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Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
How does one "fix" detecting false pre-ignition?
Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
Simple! By disabling the torque limiter for pre-ignition. LOL
The last update by Chris gave us this ability in Maestro.
I know, kind of a bogus "fix". But Chris said we're good to roll with it. I imagine the chances of me having preignition are pretty low with me running E all the time, and ideally full E.
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Quebster
Autocross Newbie
- Location
- Dallas, Tx
Been working on the garage more. Got the walls and attic over the garage insulated and plan to install a DIY 2-ton mini split. Walls need patching, paint, and new baseboards. Want to put in some shop lighting also.
REAL proud of my latest, this sweet Chamberlain side-mount door opener. It’s insanely quiet and hooks up to WiFi so I can monitor and open/close with my phone. I straightened up those wires some more also, got everything real clean!
It replaced a unit original to the house from 1980. Expensive, but 10/10, highly recommend!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
REAL proud of my latest, this sweet Chamberlain side-mount door opener. It’s insanely quiet and hooks up to WiFi so I can monitor and open/close with my phone. I straightened up those wires some more also, got everything real clean!
It replaced a unit original to the house from 1980. Expensive, but 10/10, highly recommend!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk