Pulling front subframe - remove steering rack or no?

[Raguvian]

I'm going to be pulling my subframe to install a clutch soon, and I'm just wondering if it's easier to leave the steering rack attached to the subframe, or undo the bolt on the inside of the car behind the pedals and pull the entire rack down?

The FSM says to replace the seal that goes around the input shaft of the rack that seals to the firewall but is this really necessary? I kind of want to pull the rack out with the subframe so there's less stuff in the way while I remove and install the transmission.

Thanks!

 

[Navi]

easier attached to subframe

 

[Raguvian]

easier attached to subframe

Did you have to replace the firewall seal?

 

[Navi]

this is how it looked when they pulled it. NO seals or gaskets were replaced on the steering rack.

 

[Raguvian]

View attachment 212607

this is how it looked when they pulled it. NO seals or gaskets were replaced on the steering rack.

Thanks!

The FSM says to replace this thing:

But I'm not even finding a part number for it. I'll probably just reinstall it as is.

 

[jmblur]

If you have to do more than just lower it, I'd probably move the steering rack with it. This is your opportunity to do a front sway bar too - it's not fun dropping the subframe, so take advantage of you're thinking of doing it!

 

[toothofwar]

If you have to do more than just lower it, I'd probably move the steering rack with it. This is your opportunity to do a front sway bar too - it's not fun dropping the subframe, so take advantage of you're thinking of doing it!

Can confirm. Prime time for new bars!!!!

 

[Raguvian]

If you have to do more than just lower it, I'd probably move the steering rack with it. This is your opportunity to do a front sway bar too - it's not fun dropping the subframe, so take advantage of you're thinking of doing it!

I want to see what the new coilovers I'm going to be installing with the clutch do to the car before messing with the sway bars!

How was reinstalling the subframe? I am not sure how the seal I circled will line up and seat back properly.

 

[jmblur]

I got it pretty dead straight, but it wasn't easy especially lying on my back instead of up on a real lift. But now dealing with a nasty suspension clack/clunk so maybe don't take my advice lol.

 

[Mini7]

You do not need to drop the subframe when pulling the transmission.

I did it on jack stands on my drive. So far from the ideal situation.

You need to rotate the trans anti-clockwise to clear the subframe. I benched it out with a buddy supporting the trans from above. Getting it back in was harder because gravity is working against you. Going in. Rotate the diff housing into the 12o clock position and rotate clownish once clear of the subframe.

 

[Junkyardspecial]

Dropped the subframe and left the rack in the car, its easy to leave it hanging and tie it up. Two bolts to remove it from the subframe too. Which is honestly super easy to remove and replace.

 

[Raguvian]

You do not need to drop the subframe when pulling the transmission.

I did it on jack stands on my drive. So far from the ideal situation.

You need to rotate the trans anti-clockwise to clear the subframe. I benched it out with a buddy supporting the trans from above. Getting it back in was harder because gravity is working against you. Going in. Rotate the diff housing into the 12o clock position and rotate clownish once clear of the subframe.

You were able to rotate the transmission out with the VAQ/bevel box attached to the transmission? I thought that was only really possible with the base model transmissions.

Either way, dropping the subframe seems better as it's easier to get the transmission in and out and I won't have any help. Plus I will be replacing the knuckles while I'm at it so the tie rods will have to come out anyways.

 

[Mini7]

I removed the VAQ/bevel box before pulling the transmission. Pulled it back off the splines before pivoting it, so the diff housing portion of the trans would clear the subframe.

Dropping the subframe will make it easier to remove and install the transmission. But will mean an alignment is required afterwards.

If you are working alone, then removing subframe will be easier.

FCP euro has a great how to video on YouTube.

 

[Raguvian]

I removed the VAQ/bevel box before pulling the transmission. Pulled it back off the splines before pivoting it, so the diff housing portion of the trans would clear the subframe.

Dropping the subframe will make it easier to remove and install the transmission. But will mean an alignment is required afterwards.

If you are working alone, then removing subframe will be easier.

FCP euro has a great how to video on YouTube.

I'm going to be installing coilovers as well so I'll need an alignment anyways.