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Precision race works MPI install

staying_tuned

Go Kart Champion
Location
Poconos
Car(s)
2016 Mark 7 Golf R
Did anyone stumble across anything that sheds light on the relevance of the yellow and red injector dots? Do we order them R/Y/R/Y on install? Sent an email to PR yesterday, haven’t heard back just yet.

My google searching raised concern because according to the results I’m finding, the dots do signify variations but I’m hoping they are irrelevant for this application.
 

staying_tuned

Go Kart Champion
Location
Poconos
Car(s)
2016 Mark 7 Golf R
Ok called them and this time got through. He knew exactly what I was talking about and said that they are QC batch matched at Bosch as part of a sequence. They get QC’d then flow matched. If flow match fails they can track QC by dot batch and these dots aren’t the ID markings that I stumbled upon in google. He said they actually write on their fuel pumps but opted for dots on injectors due to size.
 

staying_tuned

Go Kart Champion
Location
Poconos
Car(s)
2016 Mark 7 Golf R
That video above and this thread made the removal go super smooth. I didn’t need to remove the hard fuel line, only the oil filter cap. Zero fussing with the TB, just pulled it with the manifold after disconnecting the hose per the video. The manifold screws can be removed by hand. This T30 was part of an $8 kit on amazon, made it go by quickly.

Valves aren’t bad but I’ve only got 44k on the car. Still going to walnut blast them with leftover shells from my last blast. Nasty N54.
 

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staying_tuned

Go Kart Champion
Location
Poconos
Car(s)
2016 Mark 7 Golf R
LPFP pressure was not registering. Make sure you get grey and blue wires fully seated (THANKS RAILROADER!). Those wires suck, FYI.

These are very handy tools for the job:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP19CKZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719N297G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Another tip, a pair of locking forceps makes the red wire into the fusebox simple, no need to pop it out. Snake it in there with your fingers, snap it down into forceps, look straight down through where it's supposed to seat and guide it on up there. Done.





just to confirm when you say no need to pop it out, you’re saying with the locking forceps (which we have) the fuse box itself doesn’t need to be wrestled off? In any case, thanks for the tip!
 

daconchslop

Drag Racing Champion
Location
South Carolina
Honestly getting the box to release isn’t that difficult, if you don’t have an opening like Diggs. Just go around the housing releasing the clips while gently pulling upwards. Mine slid right up and out once all 5 or so clips were released. The back of the box tilts upwards much easier than the front with all the power cables attached. The tray is sitting in channels so once you clear those you can tilt it up and forward.
 

staying_tuned

Go Kart Champion
Location
Poconos
Car(s)
2016 Mark 7 Golf R
Where did you folks end up running the purple switched 12v line? It’s not in the latest instructions (nor mention of the ground). Called PR and they said any switched 12v will do. This one specifically? He did say they plan to incorporate a location in the next version of their install doc.

A3F57660-1F04-4589-801C-2470B042A4A8.jpeg
 

staying_tuned

Go Kart Champion
Location
Poconos
Car(s)
2016 Mark 7 Golf R
Sorry, no ethanol sensor for me so I just zip tied it away.
Oh wow, no plan to run E either. Wow, would have been cool of him to mention it was for running ethanol only. So this along with the passenger side harness are both to simply be tied off if not running ethanol?
 
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