No, I have a set of Infinity Kappa 60.11cs, not the Alpine. I was referring to different adapters as that height is what can put the driver's surround and mount height into concern.
7
Polk Audio DB6502 Component Install with Crossover - Front Door and Tweeter
- Thread starter pointerDixie214
- Start date
Can you explain mounting height? Your Kappas have a .542 mounting height. Alpines have a .694. And Crutchfield says .409.
I don't really know what mounting height means. I think it means how far it protrudes above the mount. Could I just trim the door card a little?
How much room do you have with your Kappas?
I don't really know what mounting height means. I think it means how far it protrudes above the mount. Could I just trim the door card a little?
How much room do you have with your Kappas?
The measurement they are giving is just like you said, how much the speaker sticks out above the mounting surface. When Crutchfield is saying it doesn't fit, it's probably because their mount/adapter is similar in thickness to the factory one which is close to 2" thick I think. I only needed a 1/2" spacer for my speaker, so that saved me that much space from the door card/grill. You shouldn't have to trim anything unless you have a very thick adapter, and you'd only need a very thick adapter if you had a VERY deep speaker.
And your window goes down fine, no issues? They seem to both be 2ish inch mounting depth.
Thanks for the info. I'm pretty handy mechanically, but every stereo or speaker install I've done I've used Crutchfield and all the instructions and adapters to make it easy. I never thought much about it much more that they say it fits, plug in, done.
I appreciate you answering my stupid questions, I've never been much of an audio guy, but I'd like to at least replace the factory speakers and have a decent sounding stereo. Looking at Cerwin Vegas spare tire sub too.
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Yep, no issues with the windows with what I used.
This was the spacer/adapter btw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DJG80YA
Super generic, took a little effort to make it work so spending $30+ might be better if you don't want to fuss with that. I also had foam tape and rubber tape to mate everything together already.
Honestly, I've had everything I used to install these speakers for over a year now. The quarantine time gave me an opportunity to have my car pulled apart for days if needed, so I finally did it. It's not hard, just take your time and get each step right.
Also, it's completely possibly that doing some sound deadening on in the doors without swapping speakers would be enough of an improvement to NOT go through all this mess. The stock speakers aren't garbage IMO, especially with the Helix. Just something to think about.
elterrible
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- US
I am in the middle of replacing all speakers myself.
OP, you may not have to run wire all the way from the doors up to the pillar.
The crossover box that comes with your new speakers may just be for the tweeters.
I confirmed this on my Infinity Kappa's using a desktop amp and playing frequency sweep videos off youtube. The crossover that comes with my speakers does have outputs for both the woofers and the tweeters but there is no low pass filter for the woofers, it passes the straight signal to the woofers. I verified that by connecting the woofers through the crossover and playing frequency sweeps and it never cuts out, same response as with no crossover at all.
I went through all that trouble for the exactly your same concerns: I didnt want to run wire all through the doors if I didnt have to. I use the factory wiring direct to the woofers and then will only run the factory tweeter wire to the crossovers. I plan on mounting the crossovers on the side access panels on the dash. That way I only have to run speaker cable to and from that area to the pillars and not all the way to the doors.
OP, you may not have to run wire all the way from the doors up to the pillar.
The crossover box that comes with your new speakers may just be for the tweeters.
I confirmed this on my Infinity Kappa's using a desktop amp and playing frequency sweep videos off youtube. The crossover that comes with my speakers does have outputs for both the woofers and the tweeters but there is no low pass filter for the woofers, it passes the straight signal to the woofers. I verified that by connecting the woofers through the crossover and playing frequency sweeps and it never cuts out, same response as with no crossover at all.
I went through all that trouble for the exactly your same concerns: I didnt want to run wire all through the doors if I didnt have to. I use the factory wiring direct to the woofers and then will only run the factory tweeter wire to the crossovers. I plan on mounting the crossovers on the side access panels on the dash. That way I only have to run speaker cable to and from that area to the pillars and not all the way to the doors.
pointerDixie214
New member
- Location
- South Central, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 GTI; 1971 MGB
Thanks for the follow up!
I still need to tackle the passenger side, so I think I'll test your theory first to save the trouble of going through this again!
elterrible
Passed Driver's Ed
- Location
- US
Yeah these stock speakers (non fender) are a lot better than what I had stock in my 2005 corolla and I would be happy with their sound with the Helix alone. If I had to do it all over again, I would probably just gotten the helix and call it a day. Or atleast gotten a speaker kit that used tweeters with built in crossovers.
Going through a lot of trouble now and at the end of the day, still ultimately limited by the stock head unit. My last car, the corolla, just replaced the head unit with a $150 JVC unit, no additional amp, some cheap rockford speakers with built in crossovers and was very happy with the sound and a very easy install. Now jumping through hoops trying to recreate the quality level of that pretty basic setup in the VW.
pointerDixie214
New member
- Location
- South Central, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 GTI; 1971 MGB
That surprises me. I've never heard a stock system as bad as this one. The component speakers were a HUGE upgrade, even without all of them being installed yet. lol
Which model Kappas? That seems really strange, but I guess at some frequency the resistance/response is just so low it doesn't matter. I guess they just wanted to make them look more high end.
99.9% of people who do the Helix upgrade with the base (non-Fender) systems really love it, myself included. New speakers improved clarity over anything, but nothing about the factory speakers once they have DSP applied is really that flawed, plus the added bass from the Helix sub is welcome.
pointerDixie214
New member
- Location
- South Central, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 GTI; 1971 MGB
Interesting. I agree the added bass is needed. I got that from the Alpine sub. I am surprised that the factory speakers do ok with helix, but that's really good to know.
That said, I spent less on my setup than Helix costs, and I am more of a freak about clarity in the highs than I am about bass, so I am happy with the Polks.
When the first revision of the Helix upgrade was clearanced at $250, it was WELL worth it. Now I think you can get some rebates here and there, but it's still not a bad deal. The DSP and better (I assume) amp does a lot, plus any timing correction specific to the car that it adds.
pointerDixie214
New member
- Location
- South Central, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 GTI; 1971 MGB
Oh geez, yeah for $250 I would have done that for sure. I was looking at between $550 and $600. I got all my stuff on sale too, so I ended up paying about $500 for all my stuff. Not much cheaper, but still sounds really nice.
Pretty much a no brainer at the time, and it's still a popular upgrade for folks that don't like wiring and digging inside of body panels and doors too much.
If you didn't, consider some sound deadening, even if it's just in the front doors and under the trunk floor. One 18 sq ftcase of Noico 80 should cover it unless you go crazy: https://www.amazon.com/Noico-deadening-Automotive-Insulation-dampening/dp/B012B5EMGO
I bought 2 cases and I'll probably have 1/2 of the second leftover to do the rear doors if I feel like it, but I did under the back seat, around the fenders, on the hatch and wherever else made sense.