P00AF00 Wastegate

[VW_8v]

Had the same issue, and code. Tried soaking with pb blaster over the course of a few days. No luck. Got the car back to stock and dealer replaced turbo under warranty

 

[325i]

We had stupid humid weather a couple weeks back and my GTI threw the wastegate code. I had symptoms leading in to the code though.... I could sense a difference in sound, a few stalls on start etc. I also had unrelated stuff going on like my power steering was cutting out when the engine got very hot.

So happy I found this thread as I checked the wastegate and it was solid, could not get it to move. First step was to use WD40 as that is what I had... sprayed some on and took the car out for a spirited drive. Code was gone!

Next I continued to work the hinge with PB blaster and finally got things to fully release. I can now move the actuator in and out with no issue.

I used a bendy drinking straw to guide the PB Blaster exactly where I wanted it to go.... just hold the end on the hinge and fill up the straw. Gravity took care of the rest and I didn't have spray going everywhere.

Next I cleaned up the battery terminals and after all the work was done - no codes even my power steering issues went away.

Thanks so much for sharing the tip OP.... was a life saver for me. Hopefully the codes don't come back!!

 

[madwazzabi]

I would suggest you apply some nickel antiseize to protect the linkage from any future corrosion.

My car has been sitting in the garage for over a year now, still moves smoothly by hand.

 

[jjeziora]

Hey Guys,

Just found this thread. I think my problem may be similar but the dealership is telling me I need to replace the turbo completely. My car had been giving me EPC code occasionally the last week or so. Sometimes, when I turn the car on, it would be there and I wouldnt have proper throttle response. Wouldn't want to rev high. Then the next time I turn my car on, no EPC light and I can drive it normally with proper response, turbo would seemingly kick in and work fine. Sometimes, it would start with no EPC light, and then it would come on mid drive and again cut the throttle response. This would go on for several days where sometimes the car would be fine with no codes and driving normally, and sometimes it would start with EPC light and not be responsive.

Yesterday, I drove somewhere and went to a meeting. When I went back to my car and tried to turn it on it wouldn't start. Car would try and turn the engine over but couldn't. Called CAA, they sent a tow truck and he was going to tow me, but tried starting the car and said it seemed like I might just need a boost. He boosted me and it started up fine with no engine code. He said I should go to VW to get a new battery because he thought mine was completely dead. I drove the car to VW, told them all of this and left my car.

They call me this morning - Say the battery is dead and needs to be replaced, but also that I need to replace my turbocharger. Say the wastegate actuator is broken and cant be replaced. I called for some advice from a friend of mine, and had them send over the log, which is shown below.

Anyone able to provide me with any advice? My car is still with VW, I obviously don't want to just pay them $3300 to replace the turbo if that is not necessary. I have a couple other shops that are recommended to me, VW is saying I shouldn't drive the car...

 

[Diggs24]

They won’t mess with replacing the actuator even though the rest of the turbo is fine. Find an independent garage to replace it

 

[jjeziora]

They won’t mess with replacing the actuator even though the rest of the turbo is fine. Find an independent garage to replace it

So you would be fairly certain it's just the actuator, and I can probably just drive it to another shop and have them replace the actuator itself?

 

[Diggs24]

yes. but first try lubing the flapper arm

 

[jjeziora]

Ok. I don't have the car at the moment. As I mentioned it is with the dealer, so I have to tell them Im taking the car back and then take it somewhere else and have them do that.

Thanks for your help

yes. but first try lubing the flaper arm

 

[Diggs24]

Nickel based hot bolt paste. work it in real good right at the joint

 

[madwazzabi]

So you would be fairly certain it's just the actuator, and I can probably just drive it to another shop and have them replace the actuator itself?

I suggest you read through this entire thread in detail. I've described my findings in fine detail a few pages back and in addition a few things you can try on your own to see what the issue is (seized linkage joint or broken actuator). Try this first when you get your car back. If the actuator arm is hard to move back and forth by hand then give it some penetrating oil over a few nights to get rid of the corrosion. Then I'd do the nickel antiseize paste as per Diggs suggestion.

With the P00AF00 is usually associated to the wastegate not being able to do its thing. Just happens that a seized linkage joint is a common issue and the code won't let you know if it is the actuator or the rusted joint. But to add to Diggs first point, there just isn't a separate repair for the wastegate actuator under VW list of services, it's all or nothing for the turbo (wastegate, arm, actuator, turbine, bearing etc.) so they're quoting you a turbo replacement.

 

[Acadia18]

yes. but first try lubing the flapper arm

Nickel based hot bolt paste. work it in real good right at the joint

 

[jjeziora]

So I have talked to a few local VW specialists here.. In order to work on the actuator, which as has been stated here isn't a guarantee, they are saying they would need to remove the turbocharger. Problem could be the flapper arm seizing, or broken actuator rod or wastegate and can't tell without removing. Doesn't seem like any of them have had much success with the lubricating/anti-seize route. Makes sense that it would be something I should try myself first if I want to. If I can't get it to move then I could consider options to replace at that point.

It also sounds like if I'm going to be taking it off (i.e. lubricating to move the arm doesn't work) then I'm looking at quite a bit to replace it. Seems like this would be as good a time to go IS38 as any? Unitronic seems like the most common option here, but I would just want to do IS38 + DP. Is that a problem? It seems that spec doesn't fit Stage 2 (just DP) or Stage 2+(IS38, DP, IC, Intake, Inlet Pipe). Wouldn't want to have a tune that wasn't meant for my parts..

Thanks again for all the help,

 

[Diggs24]

Might as well get a vortex or garret or tpc other small sized upgrade vs is38. unitronic is very meh. get a cobb ap and get a custom tune for it. dp and ic are necessary

 

[jjeziora]

Might as well get a vortex or garret or tpc other small sized upgrade vs is38. unitronic is very meh. get a cobb ap and get a custom tune for it. dp and ic are necessary

Just better power delivery for the smaller upgrades vs Is38? Is that why you would suggest that instead? Trying to do something with what shops around me are offering since I won't be doing it on my own. Seems most offer Unitronic but I can look around more and see if others offer what you mean. I know I can get TPC easily here, but would a place that set me up with that and Access Port setup instead which seems less common here. The tune wouldn't work properly without IC? I had one person tell me that where I am it isn't totally necessary since it is cold here a lot of the year and if I'm not really running it hard all the time. It is still a DD for me, if that makes any difference.

 

[Diggs24]

I’m just not a huge is38 fan due to the self seating insert that tends to eat itself when pushed.
You order the cobb ap and work with a tuner over email. unitronic is underpowered and has no resale value. you dont need a local tuner, almost no one uses a local tuner anymore.
cold or not an intercooler is always beneficial.