Well, I did half of what I set out to do.
After a full day on and off while on vacation, I painfully installed these front fogs.
On paper this is a super easy project; but with the amount of plastic tabs, and absolute finger gymnastics to access the body control module, this took three times longer than I figured it would.
Also, absolutely fuck every project that deals with accessing the BCM on this car.
Part 1, stoked to do the project, clean work area.
Part 2, bloody fingers, shit everywhere.
Overall, happy with how they look. OEM LED's look good and have the same colour temp as the OSRAMS which keeps it clean.
For reference, I used this guide as an outline of what I needed to to. I was going to do detailed photos but got too frustrated and wanted to get it done, so I'll post my learning curve notes below;
OBD Coding;
Module “09-Cent. Elect.”
Coding - Long Coding - Byte 7, Bit 3.
Adaptation - (When prompted, use security code 31347)
(1)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lasttyp 12 = 6 - LED Lichtmodul
(2)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lampendefektbitposition = 38
(3)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC = 22
(4)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lichtfunktion A 12 = Nebellicht links
(6)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Dimmwert AB 12 = 127
(1)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lasttyp 13 = 6 - LED Lichtmodul
(2)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lampendefektbitposition = 42
(3)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC = 23
(4)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lichtfunktion A 13 = Nebellicht rechts
(6)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Dimmwert AB 13 = 127
OBD Coding for running fogs with DRL;
(5)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lichtfunktion B 12 [from: not active - to: Tagfahrlicht (German for DRL)]
(5)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lichtfunktion B 13 [from: not active - to: Tagfahrlicht (German for DRL)]
Part list; (you can do what I did or just buy the bold parts for the essentials).
After a full day on and off while on vacation, I painfully installed these front fogs.
On paper this is a super easy project; but with the amount of plastic tabs, and absolute finger gymnastics to access the body control module, this took three times longer than I figured it would.
Also, absolutely fuck every project that deals with accessing the BCM on this car.
Part 1, stoked to do the project, clean work area.
Part 2, bloody fingers, shit everywhere.
Overall, happy with how they look. OEM LED's look good and have the same colour temp as the OSRAMS which keeps it clean.
For reference, I used this guide as an outline of what I needed to to. I was going to do detailed photos but got too frustrated and wanted to get it done, so I'll post my learning curve notes below;
OBD Coding;
Module “09-Cent. Elect.”
Coding - Long Coding - Byte 7, Bit 3.
Adaptation - (When prompted, use security code 31347)
(1)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lasttyp 12 = 6 - LED Lichtmodul
(2)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lampendefektbitposition = 38
(3)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC = 22
(4)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lichtfunktion A 12 = Nebellicht links
(6)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Dimmwert AB 12 = 127
(1)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lasttyp 13 = 6 - LED Lichtmodul
(2)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lampendefektbitposition = 42
(3)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Fehlerort mittleres Byte DTC-DFCC = 23
(4)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lichtfunktion A 13 = Nebellicht rechts
(6)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Dimmwert AB 13 = 127
OBD Coding for running fogs with DRL;
(5)-Leuchte12NL LB45-Lichtfunktion B 12 [from: not active - to: Tagfahrlicht (German for DRL)]
(5)-Leuchte13NL RB5-Lichtfunktion B 13 [from: not active - to: Tagfahrlicht (German for DRL)]
Part list; (you can do what I did or just buy the bold parts for the essentials).
- Wiring Harness from Kufatec
- 5GM.941.699 A - Driver side fog light.
- 5GM.941.700 A - Passenger side fog light.
- 5GM.853.665 D9B9 - Driver side grille trim.
- 5GM.853.666 D9B9 - Passenger side grille trim.
- Bolts x4 - For fog light housings.
- 5G0.941.431 BD - Light switch. **Check your required part number for application. I sourced this one because it also has rear fogs which I plan on installing at a later date.
- 000.979.009 E - Fog light trigger wire. ** My light switch wiring harness had this pre-installed from the factory. I read that this may have been the case, but ordered just in case. It allowed me to skip having to pin this in to the BCM wiring harness closest to the firewall.
- 5GM.853.949 9B9 Lower duct trim, left.
- 5GM.853.950 9B9 Lower duct trim, right.
- You do not need the two above, I ordered the pair because mine were busted. In other part diagrams these were labelled 'fog end plate' but they have nothing to do with the fogs. Fourth image (bagged), they are lower grille ducts that seem to direct air to the centre.
- 5GM.807.723 A - Left bumper support retainer w/fog opening.
- 5GM.807.724 A - Right bumper support retainer w/fog opening.
- Again, you do not need the two above, mine were mangled, probably from when I had my bumper replaced and the neanderthal transferring bumper parts over had a rough go at it. My 2015 already had the exact same retainer pieces with fog inserts ready to go from the factory.
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- If your car has heated seats, then you likely have the proper Body Control Module to do this retrofit.
- Do not disconnect the battery before removing the fender screws. I have push to start and couldn't spin the wheel enough to access them unless the car is on.
- I had to jack the car up to access the 7 T25 screws under the bumper (car was too low, might be able to at stock height).
- You absolutely need to remove the 807 part numbers to get proper access to the tabs for 853.
- Order of install > 853 (grille) > 807 (bumper retainers) > 941 (fog lights) (ask me how I know).
- Rough out the wiring harness before zip-ties and installing the bumper cover.
- For early models, my BCM had some ridiculous white plastic pieces that made it impossible for me to release the wiring harnesses from below. I had to remove some more interior trim to get my hand in there. The written guide severely understated the work that was involved with gaining access to this and consumed half my time doing this retrofit. See image below, remove the drop-down drawer as well.
- I pulled the whole battery out to get access to the grommet pass-through. Much easier.
- If you don't want to scratch your headlights, get a second person to help with reinstalling the bumper. I did it myself but it was a pain in the ass and I covered the headlights with towels.
- Removing the light switch is way easier than I thought. Use this video.
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. I can get to the BCM and remove it completely in about 10 minutes 
. And I cracked that white guide piece the first time I removed mine. I later replaced it, didn't like the idea of it missing even though it only helps you line up plug B.
