OEM+ 2-DOOR MKVII

[aegis]

The VE52 is good, but the upgraded unit (Active 2.0) is a very nice upgrade if you can swing it. It’s the one I use and I absolutely love it.

I looked into this, the VE is on sale right now for less than half the cost of the 2.0. I think I'll pull the trigger on it just as a beginner and see how long it lasts me. All great info btw, thanks for this.

 

[aegis]

Badgeskin reflector delete, will do for now. might do paint-matched instead later.

 

[aegis]

Got the rear plate bracket installed.

Also getting the wash setup dialed in. Will put a list of the equipment in the next post.
Only thing I can't get 100% down is bad bug removal. Might try one of those detailing sponges.
I heard 3D bug remover is a safer option over the Dark Fury stuff.

 

[19birel]

Nice wash setup! I need to get a pressure washer next summer in a bad way

Now that you have the 8.5R, does the GTI see much mileage anymore or is it an even split?

 

[aegis]

Now that you have the 8.5R, does the GTI see much mileage anymore or is it an even split?

If I'm being honest, I can't afford insurance on both at the same time. Both are currently insured, but the GTI basically has 'storage' coverage for the time being. To swap between the two, I think my insurer needs 30ish days to flip-flop the coverage. So to answer your question, 0 miles on the GTI since I picked up the R. I've moved it a few times to clean it, and getting in/driving around the block reminds me that it's such a different driving experience than the R (in a good way). Can't part with it.

Currently, I think I'm going to swap back to the GTI for one more winter and go from there. The idea was to go 6 months R : 6 months GTI, just can't decide yet on which car gets winter.
HVAC on the GTI is on it's way out the door, so mid winter and mid summer both suck ass in it. I can handle it, but I do most of the driving and my partner isn't a fan. (she loves the R even moreso for that reason).

Big first world problems, basically a dream come true so feeling humble.

 

[19birel]

If I'm being honest, I can't afford insurance on both at the same time. Both are currently insured, but the GTI basically has 'storage' coverage for the time being. To swap between the two, I think my insurer needs 30ish days to flip-flop the coverage. So to answer your question, 0 miles on the GTI since I picked up the R. I've moved it a few times to clean it, and getting in/driving around the block reminds me that it's such a different driving experience than the R (in a good way). Can't part with it.

Currently, I think I'm going to swap back to the GTI for one more winter and go from there. The idea was to go 6 months R : 6 months GTI, just can't decide yet on which car gets winter.
HVAC on the GTI is on it's way out the door, so mid winter and mid summer both suck ass in it. I can handle it, but I do most of the driving and my partner isn't a fan. (she loves the R even moreso for that reason).

Big first world problems, basically a dream come true so feeling humble.

I just paid the insurance for my cars so I definitely feel your pain there (I pay in 6month lumps which makes it extra painful)

Spending half the year driving each car it a solid idea though, it'll feel like a fresh driving experience each time you swap cars definitely worth keeping GTI to complement the R. I will say though, once you experience the awd in the winter on some good tyres, you won't want to go back!

 

[aegis]

Decided to get back into GTI for winter. Austins back on as the snow beaters. Officilly hit 240,000km
Parking buddy; Lapiz 8.5 on GTI Queenstowns, pretty good combo if you ask me.
Also spotted a Spektrum in the wild on the way back from up North. Pretty sure it's 91 Blue, dream colour for me.

Biting the bullet this year keeping the R in the driveway for winter, but once I get a proper undercoat we'll be rocking it again. GTI is basically in limp mode, but tbh the weather has been terrible so it's not really bothering me for now. Car isn't making any boost so I think the turbo needs to be serviced again, both the GTI and my partner's Golf are suffering from the same thing. I'll look into it further in the New Year, been way too busy with Christmas around the corner.

Happy Holidays!

Parking buddy;

 

[aegis]

Well, shit..
Had this OE kit saved in my cart and it looks like they've replaced it with a more expensive genuine VW kit instead.
Mechanic mentioned that I should start thinking about it, stretch is at 3.81 degrees on the intake side.

In other news, picked up this original keychain for the GTI keys;

Part Number below;

 

[aegis]

One day I'll use this thread to document actual work on the car again.. one day.

 

[19birel]

I'll preface this by saying these points of reference were what I used on my EA888.2 A4 when gauging timing chain wear so it may not be apples to apples, but from what I understand -3.81 is still on the low side for cam phase adaptation. On the .2 (I don't see why this wouldn't apply for the .3 but I could be wrong) -5 was the spot where one should really start considering replacement, and -7 was around where you would start seeing codes and actually having problems and you'd still have to be beyond that to skip time. On my .2 engine I replaced the chains at -5.76 and the car still ran strong without any codes.

I would probably just keep an eye on it and anticipate it being a future expense in a couple years

 

[aegis]

That's what I was thinking too. The guys at the shop were clear with their intent; they don't want to do it just to do it, they just wanted to let me know that it's something to start thinking about down the line. Over the last year and a half, there has definately been more chatter than what there used to be from the timing cover, so that's why I asked them to just take a look and give their opinion. This winter has been the loudest chatter I've heard.

 

[aegis]

On my .2 engine I replaced the chains at -5.76 and the car still ran strong without any codes.

Forgot to mention which may be worth a thought;
The car's been sitting since August, so the wastegate is mostly siezed up once again. The car is low power but no codes come up.
When doing a hard throttle push (highway on-ramp), the car can't keep up and will do a big 'lurch' where it feels like it's skipping. It 'feels' like what a timing skip would feel like, without all the aftermath, so I've been going easy until I can grease up the wastegate again.

Do you think the lurching phenomenon is from the limp turbo, or worse? This is the main reason a timing refresh has been on my mind.

 

[19birel]

Forgot to mention which may be worth a thought;
The car's been sitting since August, so the wastegate is mostly siezed up once again. The car is low power but no codes come up.
When doing a hard throttle push (highway on-ramp), the car can't keep up and will do a big 'lurch' where it feels like it's skipping. It 'feels' like what a timing skip would feel like, without all the aftermath, so I've been going easy until I can grease up the wastegate again.

Do you think the lurching phenomenon is from the limp turbo, or worse? This is the main reason a timing refresh has been on my mind.

Well I can tell you that, as a result of finishing up my timing job at 3am, I know precisely what the car feels like when it's about a tooth or so off Your lurching phenomenon is likely from the limp turbo- when my timing was off the car just felt gutless and threw codes.

if the wastegate is seized the car is probably struggling with boost control, if it's not making boost but the car is expecting there to be boost a number of things could be occurring to make it lurch. I doubt that has anything to do with timing. If timing was the problem, you would know

 

[aegis]

if the wastegate is seized the car is probably struggling with boost control, if it's not making boost but the car is expecting there to be boost a number of things could be occurring to make it lurch.

This was exactly my hunch. Seemed like it's 'expecting' the boost to come on so it will struggle and not know what to do. Second time i've had to service the wastegate.. maybe I should just get an IS38 replacement.
Thanks for the anecdotal info

 

[aegis]

Classic ECS