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NVH on throttle in reverse

yeahforbes

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NJ
Car(s)
2017 Golf R DSG
What can cause NVH in the form of massive drone in the cabin, but not much if any noise outside, when getting on the throttle while my DSG6 is in reverse? The way the sound grows with torque is almost like how lugging sounds, except huge, and it doesn't trail off into bliss as RPMs increase. It's gotten to the point where even neutral (factory idle speed) causes a little bit too unless I give it light throttle.

60k mi
No DTCs

Quick research suggested engine/transmission mounts, so when I happened to be in the shop for other things (DSG service and Haldex service), I asked about it. Sure enough, pry test failed with flying colors on the transmission side, recommend do both. So I replaced both with Corteco figuring they would be OEM quality. I did the engine mount (under the coolant bottle) one day and the transmission mount (under the battery) the next day -- what a bitch that was, but I digress. When I drove a little bit in between doing each, it was already a lot better (despite swapping the one that wasn't allegedly the culprit), and after doing both it was noticeably better yet. Maybe it was even perfect for a bit, but it's hard to know because the problem was always a little bit intermittent anyway, maybe having gotten to 60% of the time.

But after several drive cycles, suddenly the problem was back. Not long after, it had snuck up to occurring 100% of the time. But I don't daily it, so it hasn't been all that many miles. How should I diagnose further? Could the dogbone / pendulum bushing also have gone out? Is that a thing, and if so, seems odd that the shop didn't mention it whatsoever, considering they specifically recommended doing the 2 mounts even if only one is known bad. Or am I off base? I've done a solid number of things on a car, but I'm new to this particular area of expertise.

A quick sharp rumble when starting the engine also seems to have started when this all started, gone away after replacing the mounts, and come back on exactly the same timeline as the reverse vibration.

In case its relevant: I probably engine brake too much, like some red light situations that involve no realistic worries about brake fade anyway. I'm cutting out the habit, but I built it up based on "the DSG is a beast, all good" type of consensus in the debate about possible risks. I seriously wouldn't be surprised to hear this is related, but again, no expert. But I'm conservative with launches -- that's legitimately on rare occasions -- got 93oct Stg 1 EQT sauce though, ECU+TCU. Thanks in advance.

EDIT: Based on Charles saying "if you've never replaced one of these bushings, it's not fun" I guess I should hope it's not that... maybe I just got faulty Corteco mounts?
 
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yeahforbes

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NJ
Car(s)
2017 Golf R DSG
This is how much movement there is when holding the brake and punching the gas. Unfortunately I don't have a reference to compare it to, so maybe someone here can weigh in.

0:00 - 0:07 is in reverse, and after that is in drive.
 

BudgetPhoenix

Autocross Champion
Location
Kansas
Car(s)
2009 GLI, 2016 GTI
The puck mounts in the subframe can def cause that NVH. I've done the job on a mk5 but it should be mostly the same. Its not too bad to do. I dropped the subframe and then cut them out with a Sawzall. I forgot how I rigged it to press them in since I don't have a hydraulic press but iirc I had to cut a tiny slit out of the outer ring of one of the pucks to get it to fit. It just needed its diameter shortened by like 1mm but YMMV
 

yeahforbes

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NJ
Car(s)
2017 Golf R DSG
I'd have a shop do it, but I'm hoping to at least diagnose before bringing it in. How does this look?
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Pretty normal for a car with some miles. If you want to throw (easier) parts at it, the dogbone itself is pretty easy to replace, there is a bushing in there.
 

yeahforbes

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NJ
Car(s)
2017 Golf R DSG
Well, I've got a stock setup (no insert, factory bushing) and bad NVH in reverse possibly due to the bushing breaking down over time. You've got an insert (which firms up the bushing, essentially the opposite of it breaking down over time, right?) and added NVH in reverse. So the conclusion I'm drawing is that NVH in reverse is minimized by having a brand new bushing with no insert? NVH arises in either direction: natural loosening or artificial stiffening?

Or could my NVH be from something else entirely? No DTCs though.
 

avenali312

Autocross Champion
Location
Mableton, GA
Car(s)
2015 GTI
Well, I've got a stock setup (no insert, factory bushing) and bad NVH in reverse possibly due to the bushing breaking down over time. You've got an insert (which firms up the bushing, essentially the opposite of it breaking down over time, right?) and added NVH in reverse. So the conclusion I'm drawing is that NVH in reverse is minimized by having a brand new bushing with no insert? NVH arises in either direction: natural loosening or artificial stiffening?

Or could my NVH be from something else entirely? No DTCs though.
I'm not really sure what I was trying to say other than NVH seems strongest in reverse haha. My car is back to stock now (removed the insert) and reverse is buttery smooth again (2015 with about 68k miles on it).
 

yeahforbes

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NJ
Car(s)
2017 Golf R DSG
I realized that I hadn't done a DSG calibration (basic settings) since this all started, or since my DSG fluid change. I just did it a few days ago, and IMMEDIATELY the vibration in reverse stopped. It's been good about 90% of the time ever since. Wish I could say it was 100% of the time. Maybe it depends on temperature...

To recap the sequence of events:
  • NVH suddenly started. It was somewhat intermittent, and ultimately I concluded that it was occurring around 60% of the time.
  • Went to a shop for DSG service (a bit earlier than necessary, to see if it would help the NVH) and asked them to check the NVH. I suspected motor mounts. Shop confirmed: yes, you need motor mounts, especially trans side. Left the shop, NVH in reverse continued.
  • I replaced the motor mounts. NVH went away, but I now believe the intermittent nature of the NVH led me to falsely believe that the mounts fixed it.
  • NVH returned a few drives later. Hardly intermittent anymore -- now more like 100% of the time.
  • DSG calibration (basic settings) -- via the full suite of options on the Cobb AccessPort. NVH went away.
  • NVH has returned once or twice but now it's super infrequent, like 10% of the time.
 

yeahforbes

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NJ
Car(s)
2017 Golf R DSG
Over the last few weeks, the intermittent nature of NVH in reverse has slowly increased from about 10% of the time to about 60% of the time. I've been keeping an eye on DSG temp (via AccessPort) and it doesn't seem to be correlated. A couple days ago it was quite bad -- not only in Reverse, but also when idling in Park / Neutral / Drive which goes away with any amount of throttle input, unlike Reverse where NVH grows with throttle input -- which prompted me to do another DSG calibration. That immediately solved the problem just like in my May 16th reply, and this time I included what Ross-Tech calls the Defined Test Drive procedure, and right after that I did some heavy-footed reversing in hopes of working that into the TCU's learned behaviors as well. Smooth as butter. Next day, the NVH in reverse is creeping back into play. Probably about 10% of the time.

Are there any DSG diagnostics I can do besides reading fault codes? Maybe some data logging of clutch pressure or something? @Ed @ EQT
 

The Dude

Autocross Champion
Location
PNW
Car(s)
MK7 GTI S
Loosen your downpipe, rock the car back and forth on a flat surface gently in park, then tighten your dp clamp again, tight tight.
 

The Dude

Autocross Champion
Location
PNW
Car(s)
MK7 GTI S
I have a similar issue, apr dogbone and insert, bfi stage 1 motor and Trans mounts. I get rattles in reverse, or when the car is in neutral but with tension against the driveline. I've been looking for witness marks, nothing. Subframe locking kit with torque strip verified no hardware movement, loosening or rotation of any kind.
 

yeahforbes

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NJ
Car(s)
2017 Golf R DSG
Thanks for the suggestions. Before I had a chance to explore them, the problem suddenly resolved itself with a loud "clunk" (while getting on the throttle in reverse) about 3 weeks ago, and hasn't returned. Everything has been 100% silky smooth since then. Like magic, there was no more reverse vibration, rough start, or idle vibration whatsoever.

I guess ideally I would torque down whatever is loose ASAP before it shifts into the bad position again. Any other suggestions besides the downpipe clamp? Maybe subframe bolts and all exhaust fasteners? I'll look for witness marks of course.
 
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