New pads at 20k miles, worth it to change rotors?

[MK7 AP2]

I have finally gotten tired of dealing with the extreme dust from the stock pads. I am considering the Centric Posi-quiet ceramics and researching other low dust options. At 20k miles, is it worth addressing rotors at the same time? Can they typically be turned/machined or just a remove/replace part? Options:

1. Slap in new pads and call it a day.
2. New pads and turn stock rotors (Not sure if anyone does this)
3. New pads and rotors

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Crild]

Nope. Just add pads and go unless the rotors are below min thick.

 

[IceBerg4k1]

Unless the rotor is starting to form lip around the outer edge, just throw in the pads. I also went with the Centric ceramics for the very same reason. It's absurd how little dust they make in comparison to the OE pads.

 

[JerseyDrew77]

I would also feel the rotors to check if they are still pretty smooth. My stock front rotors went around 30K miles.

 

[Navi]

Lip doesn't mean anything. Grooves within the rotor are more important. Slight lip can form and rotor will still be in spec. Front rotors 340mm rotors are 30mm thickness. Wear limit is 27mm. Rear 310mm rotors are 22mm thick. Wear limit is 20mm.

 

[jimlloyd40]

I needed new pads at 20,000 miles also and I had the rotors turned which I consider necessary so that the new pads will bed properly. The next time I needed pads the rotors needed to be replaced because they were too thin to turn.

 

[MK7 AP2]

Thanks for all the responses. I ordered the Centric pads and will have the shop measure the rotors when they do the swap.

 

[DiscusInferno]

I needed new pads at 20,000 miles also and I had the rotors turned which I consider necessary so that the new pads will bed properly. The next time I needed pads the rotors needed to be replaced because they were too thin to turn.

Turning the rotors by itself won't guarantee proper bedding of the pads. You have to sand down the rotor to get a "cross-hatching" pattern, that will ensure the pads bed properly. See a new rotor, like Centric rotor, and you'll see the pattern.

Turning, is only knocking off the peaks of the surface of the rotor.

Plus VW specs the wear limits to be very thin. Vented rotors only have about 3mm of total thickness wear (I forget the max runout), and 2mm for solid rotors. That's not a lot of room for wear. Plus they are designed to wear with the pads anyway.

Centric High Carbon rotors are also relatively inexpensive as well, and the basis of Stoptech drilled and/or slotted "Sport Rotors"

 

[jimlloyd40]

Turning the rotors by itself won't guarantee proper bedding of the pads. You have to sand down the rotor to get a "cross-hatching" pattern, that will ensure the pads bed properly. See a new rotor, like Centric rotor, and you'll see the pattern.

Turning, is only knocking off the peaks of the surface of the rotor.

Plus VW specs the wear limits to be very thin. Vented rotors only have about 3mm of total thickness wear (I forget the max runout), and 2mm for solid rotors. That's not a lot of room for wear. Plus they are designed to wear with the pads anyway.

Centric High Carbon rotors are also relatively inexpensive as well, and the basis of Stoptech drilled and/or slotted "Sport Rotors"

I agree about the sanding in addition to turning the rotor.

 

[Mickey11]

Just do pads, and you can resurface rotors if necessary. This guy gives great tips and he is a VW guy...

 

[geokilla]

I'm on my third set of front brake pads with the stock rotors and so far it seems ok. I track my car and replaced the OEM pads with EBC YellowStuff after the OEM pads failed on me at the track. I'll probably replace the rotors in Spring when I bring my car in to the mechanic for its spring check up. Gotta make sure my car is safe before I go and have fun!