New hardware when doing lowering springs?

[jeffdemara]

Hi all

I will be doing a set of VWR lowering springs on my 2017 Golf 1.8T (basically brand new, only has 900 miles on it). For curiosity, I asked my local VW dealership how much to install, and they quoted me of course, but I found it interesting they mentioned ALL new hardware is necessary when doing so, as the bolts are all torque to yield. Any bolt thats removed in the process of changing out the springs needs to be replaced.

I then spoke with another reputable and popular local shop who specializes in Audi/VW, and have done tons of lowering spring installs, and they mentioned they never replace any of the bolts, and it's always been fine.

Any input on these two contradicting points?
What has been your experience when doing this?

Thanks!

 

[NopeR]

Dealer says to change as they're torque to yield, or "stretch bolts". Does it matter? Not at the mileage you have.

Ove changed my suspension setup quite a few times and have only replaced the hardware once.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

 

[mustache rash]

Just do new strut bearings and pinch bolts.

 

[MonkeyMD]

My Indy ship said the same thing as far as not changing bolts, and in sure it would be fine, but I paid the few dollars to change anyway.

 

[MysticBlueX3]

I just did VWR springs and the shop didn’t say anything about needing new bolts.

 

[DiscusInferno]

Certain bolts are torque to yield and should be replaced every time.

The pinch bolt for the strut that attaches to the wheel bearing housing should be replaced.
and
if you need to remove the axle bolt to remove the axle to get more play to remove the strut assembly, that needs to be replaced every time.

3 bolts... not too much money to spend.

 

[jbm119]

Torque to yield bolts are suppose to be replaced once used.
But some reused those bolts with no problem, so use them at your risk.

Otherwise invest like $80.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine...ring-hardware-installation-kit/mk7coilhdwrkt/

or this thread.

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22788

 

[GTI Jake]

Dealer says to change as they're torque to yield, or "stretch bolts". Does it matter? Not at the mileage you have.

Ove changed my suspension setup quite a few times and have only replaced the hardware once.

Sent from my SM-G965W using Tapatalk

Mileage has nothing to do with it, the bolts that are “torque till yield” are literally stretched to lock them in place.

They could be reused, but you’ve got to understand they’re intended to be one time use and by design are much more likely to fail when torque is applied for the second time.

Money well spent to replace the strut top and axle to hub bolts IMO

 

[blaqsheep]

Required Replacement Parts:

MINIMUM REQUIRED* (for complete front and rear spring / damper job):
•Strut Bearings: 5Q0-412-249-F* (Qty 2) (*New as of Dec '18. Appears to have replaced "E")
•Front Pinch / Strut Bolts: N-909-548-02 (Qty 2)
•Strut Lock Nut: N-101-064-02 (Qty 2)

I would skip the strut bearings as your car is pretty new. I would get new pinch bolts and the top strut nuts as they are nylock nuts.

or this thread.

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22788

Very good resource.

 

[jeffdemara]

Thanks for all the input everyone. That helps quite a bit

 

[Dr. Kenneth Noisewater]

Just to add my two cents from way too many suspension swaps... it's depends. The reason torque to yield is useful vs threadlocker is because it reaches maximum strength immediately versus 6-12 hours later. Since you usually drive before that period, threadlocker can have some risk, though pretty small.


If you change your suspension often, just use some blue threadlocker and try to give it some cure time. If it's one and done and you won't be going back in, might as well get some fresh TTY bolts and forget about it.