New Clutch Time?

[krs]

This isn’t a my clutch is slipping thread. In fact my clutch has been just fine. I was suffering from a leaking rear main seal, so while doing bushings and coil overs, went ahead and pulled the transmission to fix that.

Southbend Stage 3 daily on a stage 2 E30, less than 10k miles of wear. I do autocross the car, with about 30 events for 2021.

Doesn't look all that great to me.

Oh and the leaky iABED rear main.

 

[jimlloyd40]

Tough call. Clutch probably has a lot of life left but then it's easy to install a new one and save on installation costs later. If time permits email the picture to Southbend and get their opinion on the condition of the clutch.

 

[krs]

I dropped them an email, I have some time. While I'd really rather not do a clutch in the next 30k+ miles, I don't really want to just throw another $1k+ just because the transmission is out either. I was just surprised at how much glazing there is for a Stage 3 clutch.

 

[krs]

I heard back from Southbend, very fast response.

It looks like it's been heated up a few times, but other than that it looks like normal amounts of wear. IF you measure the overall thickness of the disc, a new disc measures at .310", and we recommend replacing it at .250". When measuring, you must compress the friction material by hand as much as possible for an accurate measurement. You can also purchase the disc separately if you'd like to in the future as well.

I measured the disc, looks like .270 thick on average, so just over half worn.

 

[Subliminal]

30 events in 1 year? Respect

 

[krs]

30 events in 1 year? Respect

Thanks!

I was able to hit 6 between November and December, unheard of in the winter months. 2 of them were in your neck of the woods.

 

[krs]

Looks like Southbend can rebuild the clutch, new disc, flywheel and shipping for $500.

I think I’m going to go that route.

 

[Ace92028]

Looks like Southbend can rebuild the clutch, new disc, flywheel and shipping for $500.

I think I’m going to go that route.

that is what I would do. that flywheel and pressure plate don't look like something I would want to but back in the car. Also the rear main seal could have causing clutch slippage and the hot spots you see everywhere. Use stock rear main seal and see longevity? I just replaced mine and it was leaking already at 60k

 

[krs]

that is what I would do. that flywheel and pressure plate don't look like something I would want to but back in the car. Also the rear main seal could have causing clutch slippage and the hot spots you see everywhere. Use stock rear main seal and see longevity? I just replaced mine and it was leaking already at 60k

Yeah, so many threads across the interweb talking about the OEM and the iABED, which is better, which is worse. I'm at a loss really. My car has 25k miles on it, I didn't know it had the iABED RMS installed. I have a few days to decide which one I'll go with.

On another note, I stopped by the local dealer to pick up to axle bolts, as out of all the other hardware kits I bought, I forgot to add those. I was talking to the parts guy, he has both a MK4 and MK5 R32, and he was asking why I needed the axle bolts. Anyways the conversation led to how the service department doesn't like my car due to the work done on it, and that I know my water pump/thermostat is leaking and I'm dreading the fight. He told me the tech to talk to who is mod friendly, and would probably agree that the mods/tune have nothing to do with that. So after the cars put back together I'm going to get it looked at and hopefully addressed.

 

[Ace92028]

Yeah, so many threads across the interweb talking about the OEM and the iABED, which is better, which is worse. I'm at a loss really. My car has 25k miles on it, I didn't know it had the iABED RMS installed. I have a few days to decide which one I'll go with.

On another note, I stopped by the local dealer to pick up to axle bolts, as out of all the other hardware kits I bought, I forgot to add those. I was talking to the parts guy, he has both a MK4 and MK5 R32, and he was asking why I needed the axle bolts. Anyways the conversation led to how the service department doesn't like my car due to the work done on it, and that I know my water pump/thermostat is leaking and I'm dreading the fight. He told me the tech to talk to who is mod friendly, and would probably agree that the mods/tune have nothing to do with that. So after the cars put back together I'm going to get it looked at and hopefully addressed.

sounds like oem would be better if its only 25k miles on it. I thought mine was bad for leaking at 60k haha. My waterpump/thermo is also leaking but its super slow that I still haven't to even add coolant to it yet. The cooland is pretty cool though cause when it does it. It starts to crust up as it dries and can help reseal an area that is a small leak. So make sure you use only oem coolant.

 

[Daks]

Looks like Southbend can rebuild the clutch, new disc, flywheel and shipping for $500.

I think I’m going to go that route.

What's the difference between the daily and endurance? Maybe get them to "upgrade" that part?

 

[krs]

What's the difference between the daily and endurance? Maybe get them to "upgrade" that part?

It has a "kevlar and other more exotic materials to hold the power for many hours of abuse". Otherwise everything else is the same. The rep from SB said the endurance disc while able to hold more torque, will not last as long as the daily disc should. Since my car is a typically a daily driver unless I'm driving my truck, and a weekend autox car, I think I still prefer the daily disc. I will just adjust how I do my starts at events to hopefully minimize accelerated wear.

Daily

Endurance

 

[Daks]

It has a "kevlar and other more exotic materials to hold the power for many hours of abuse". Otherwise everything else is the same. The rep from SB said the endurance disc while able to hold more torque, will not last as long as the daily disc should. Since my car is a typically a daily driver unless I'm driving my truck, and a weekend autox car, I think I still prefer the daily disc. I will just adjust how I do my starts at events to hopefully minimize accelerated wear.

Daily
View attachment 234616

Endurance
View attachment 234617

It is what it is - at least you've found a solution and know your path forward. Much like anything else that has wear, it too shall waste. My daily should hold for a while then - I've yet to launch the car and any hard acceleration I do is from 4K RPM in third and onward.

I guess its much like a mans prostate in a way - a urologist told me once that you have only so many shots to shoot - kinda makes me regret the days of my youth and my favorite partner - my left hand. I'm lying, it wasn't just youth, it's today as well. I lied again, I don't regret it.

 

[krs]

It is what it is - at least you've found a solution and know your path forward. Much like anything else that has wear, it too shall waste. My daily should hold for a while then - I've yet to launch the car and any hard acceleration I do is from 4K RPM in third and onward.

Yeah, my launches at autocross are good ones, not full on clutch dump, but I don't granny it either. Will throttle back, try and pick up time elsewhere.

My rebuild is done. Not bad, 24 hr turnaround.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

Yeah having run different friction material clutch discs on this car and daily driving thoughout them, it’s def. Much better driving with a full face organic friction material, cause it’s still designed to slip as it grabs for smoother take offs. When you’re getting into the really grippy stuff like the segmented Kevlar and ceramics and it’s really an abrupt “on/off” window that’s annoying when trying to drive lazy commute style.