Motor mounts are underrated!

[jimlloyd40]

This was sent to me from a friend, the car was running an aftermarket plate and was making 36psi of boost.

id say check it daily on your setupView attachment 187471View attachment 187472

I'll definitely keep an eye on it but I don't run that much boost and as far as extreme crankcase pressure with my OCC I'm not concerned with that after 100,000 miles. I wonder what he meant by "if the catch can is aftermarket"? All catch cans are aftermarket. Thanks for the heads up .

Edit: how do you like the breather? Notice any difference?

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

I'll definitely keep an eye on it but I don't run that much boost and as far as extreme crankcase pressure with my OCC I'm not concerned with that after 100,000 miles. I wonder what he meant by "if the catch can is aftermarket"? All catch cans are aftermarket. Thanks for the heads up .

Edit: how do you like the breather? Notice any difference?

It’s been fine and clean, But honesty I don’t think there is any difference to be notice from the driver seat aside from the piece of mind I guess

 

[staying_tuned]

Hey gents, I know there isn't a lot of feedback yet on the CP-E mounts for our platform but based on the design and materials used, would it be a relatively safe assumption that a pair of 55 durometer mounts would be one of (if not the) tamest option? Wheel hop and traction aren't an issue, I'm more looking to mitigate the motor moving around so much its yanking on the car post DVB2 install on WOT let-off.

My original plan has been to go with Lemforder's OEM replacements which are listed as a OEM but similar to most things Moog, look superior. They appear to have at least 20% more material with a beefier design in general. That plus both left and right Lemforder's can be had for a whopping $95 shipped from the Rock. I've got 43,xxx on my R, she's 5 years old so I'm fairly certain the existing stock mounts are just tired and worn.

If I were to splurge on this, would the CP-E in the lowest durometer most likely be the safest bet for a better than stock, yet mild result?

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

Hey gents, I know there isn't a lot of feedback yet on the CP-E mounts for our platform but based on the design and materials used, would it be a relatively safe assumption that a pair of 55 durometer mounts would be one of (if not the) tamest option? Wheel hop and traction aren't an issue, I'm more looking to mitigate the motor moving around so much its yanking on the car post DVB2 install on WOT let-off.

My original plan has been to go with Lemforder's OEM replacements which are listed as a OEM but similar to most things Moog, look superior. They appear to have at least 20% more material with a beefier design in general. That plus both left and right Lemforder's can be had for a whopping $95 shipped from the Rock. I've got 43,xxx on my R, she's 5 years old so I'm fairly certain the existing stock mounts are just tired and worn.

If I were to splurge on this, would the CP-E in the lowest durometer most likely be the safest bet for a better than stock, yet mild result?

Yes, but I think both the CTS and O34 options would be closer to stock than these still since their design is like stock and allows the same levels of movement just with a firmer rubber.
BUT those are both infamous for not have much longevity.

 

[Diggs24]

Just wait and get the 70 duro with me. I am getting the mounts for the exact same reason (let off engine rocking). I'm fairly certain this is also why I am struggling to launch the car at 60 and get traction.

 

[staying_tuned]

Just wait and get the 70 duro with me. I am getting the mounts for the exact same reason (let off engine rocking). I'm fairly certain this is also why I am struggling to launch the car at 60 and get traction.

Cool, yeah mine rocks so bad that what I thought was pinging or even knock was an SS oil line off the turbo apparently moving easily 4" back (and staying put on throttle) and rattling against the brake booster diaphragm. I ignored the line due to the distance while static, figured no way it could be that until I noticed a smidge of worn paint on the diaphragm hah. Tied that line closer to the motor and problem solved but man, I bet the engine rocks back and forth 6" when sending.

 

[Diggs24]

I was seeing KR on let off too. I could start to feel it as well. If I manually shift to 1st at like 10mph it's like riding a bronco, LOL.

 

[IanCH]

So I see that cp-e says the rubber is more durable than urethane but can the rubber be replaced? Seems like a pretty big boon for the BFI mounts if you can swap/replace the durometer at a very low cost.

 

[staying_tuned]

So I see that cp-e says the rubber is more durable than urethane but can the rubber be replaced? Seems like a pretty big boon for the BFI mounts if you can swap/replace the durometer at a very low cost.

Not sure but with a lifetime warranty on the C-PEs, it doesn't seem to be much of a factor from a wear standpoint but yeah, I guess if you wanted to swap durometer you'd be out the cost.

 

[gbar]

For what it's worth, I asked CP-E directly and they were a bit fuzzy about what the warranty will cover. Mount failure? Yes. Rubber wear and tear after 5 years? Maybe not

 

[MonkeyMD]

Just ordered bfi stage 1 mounts along with powerflex hybrid street dogbone. Figured at my power levels, don't need stage 2 although I am pretty tolerant of nvh.

Unfortunately they won't be available til October 14th. Was hoping to get everything installed next week.

 

[StorableComa]

Just ordered bfi stage 1 mounts along with powerflex hybrid street dogbone. Figured at my power levels, don't need stage 2 although I am pretty tolerant of nvh.

Unfortunately they won't be available til October 14th. Was hoping to get everything installed next week.

Look forward to your feedback after install, I've been tossing around this setup myself.

 

[staying_tuned]

Hey do you gents use for a support bar or hoist? This HF unit seems to get good reviews. I was thinking I could just multi-jack it from the bottom but for $80 picked up locally, I might grab this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-...m3eLQngX6lF24eq9hqRbaA2plYzOJ9XhoCI-4QAvD_BwE

 

[black forest ind]

So I see that cp-e says the rubber is more durable than urethane but can the rubber be replaced? Seems like a pretty big boon for the BFI mounts if you can swap/replace the durometer at a very low cost.

Our poly will last a long time when the car is driven. Employees here have well over 60k miles on their original poly bushings. The only time, poly could be an issue (outside of chemical contamination) is if the car stays stagnant and doesn't get driven for a long time. But, that usually takes quite a long time. Let's say you want to change the bushings of our mounts, it would be rather easy to do so as it's made easy for the end user.

I'm not sure how the CP-E bushing is changed? It looks like it might have to be pressed, and if that's a warranty issue, you might have to send that back to the company? I can't speak on their behalf, but that might be something people might want to look into as well.

 

[Ridebjj]

Hey do you gents use for a support bar or hoist? This HF unit seems to get good reviews. I was thinking I could just multi-jack it from the bottom but for $80 picked up locally, I might grab this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/1000-...m3eLQngX6lF24eq9hqRbaA2plYzOJ9XhoCI-4QAvD_BwE

It's actually easier to do it with a support jack below. At least it was for me. When I tried with my support bar, I couldn't get the hole alignment right. YMMV.