Intercooler: Upgrading to a larger intercooler can decrease charge air temperatures and help resist heat soak better than the stock intercooler. This is turn means that you can make more power and maintain it for longer on hot days. There are very popular options around, some of the most popular are straight off of the Golf R. The Golf R can be had for $275 in some places, making it a great bang for buck upgrade but it will be cool as effectively as a true big intercooler.
•Golf R: (
https://deutscheautoparts.com/mk7-g...5803p.html?_ga=1.7203703.412810425.1448293937)
•Revo: (
https://deutscheautoparts.com/catal...de-revo/?_ga=1.251012803.412810425.1448293937)
•Unitronic: (
https://deutscheautoparts.com/mk7-g...nic.html?_ga=1.251012803.412810425.1448293937)
Turbochargers:
This will be a huge topic because long story short his is how our little 2 liter four cylinder can make over 400-500whp with the right setup. A turbocharger uses exhaust gases to spin a turbine which is connected to a compressor. This compressor then sucks in air at a much higher rate than what it possible with a “naturally aspirated” application. The amount of pressure the turbocharger is producing can be measured in PSI or BAR with a boost gauge. Note: A boost gauge should literally be the first modification to do when adding power. Our cars come equipped with a IHI turbo which is good for a punchy 300 horsepower application but it is simply too small to move a large amount of air at high rpms. Choosing a turbocharger that is correct for your application and plans is extremely important. Finding out what your end goal is power wise is integral, for instance, if you just cruise around town and only attend local autoX and track days you may want a smaller frame IS38 turbocharger. If you’re building a tire shredding drag beast or highway hero you may want to select a large frame turbocharger like the GT30+ series.
In short…
Big turbos: More power but at higher rpm, longer spool up time.
Small turbos: Less power but accessible at a lower rpm, faster spool up time.
Here are a few popular options: (Kits are available from major tuners above) Smallest to largest
•Currently the IS38 is the only one on the market. (
http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/MK7_Golf_R_Audi_S3_Turbocharger_IS38-4872-0.html)
Driveline:
Making extra power is easy; getting it to the ground with an open diff FWD platform is another story. Here are a few common modifications that will help you put that power down and minimize negative FWD issues like wheel hop.
Dogbone insert/mount: Probably one of the cheapest modifications out there, these will help reduce wheel hop and give you better shifter feel (more direct). There are inserts or you can buy the full mount for even more feel. Keep in mind all engine and transmission mounts could transfer more NVH into the cabin. Should work for Gen 3 TSI.
•BSH (
http://www.redline-motorworks.com/BSH_2_0T_TSI_Torque_Arm_Insert_p/10550103.htm)
Short-Shifter: A common myth of short shifter is that the main/only benefit is a shorter throw. Our cars being front wheel drive means that the transmission is in the front drivers side of the engine bay instead of directly under the shift lever like on some RWD cars. Basically the "Shifter" is the interface between the linkage and the actual gears. I.E It's very important. There is a few options that completely change the shifter feel while providing a shorter throw as well. I think the DieselGeek Sigma 6 deserves a special mention however and I'll tell you why... There is not one single modification except for that shifter that has so much universal praise between 3 full generations of VW's/Audi's on multiple different models. It is a VERY good product. I promise you that is the only subjective biased thing I will say in this whole write-up.
• DieselGeek Sigma 6 Shifter (
http://www.dieselgeek.com/6_Speed_VW_Short_Shifter_p/ss-sigma6.htm)
• APR (
http://www.goapr.com/products/short_shifter_trans_6mt.html)
Clutch: When adding more power our cars with a manual transmission you have to be aware that the stock clutch can only hold so much torque before slipping. You’ll see stories about people’s clutch slipping with just a tune, others will have no problems with the stock clutch on IS38 applications. Tons of factors go into this but basically you are adding more power to a clutch that was rated for maybe 350TQ at best so it’s a good idea to replace it. There’s many options to choose from but be aware, you will have to replace your DMF for almost every clutch with a SMF. Sometimes a really light SMF can produce a “chatter” of sorts and can be annoying for some. Along with this, a lighter clutch and flywheel combo will make your car rev faster and more freely. (Note: DSG users won’t need to worry about this) Here’s a few to choose from:
•RSR (
http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3888)
LSD: The differential allows the car to go around the corner with the outside wheel travelling further than the inside wheel without sliding. This is good for normal driving, but when you drive very heavy footed or when things are slippery, this normal differential allows the one wheel to spin and the other to just sit there and the car goes nowhere. A limited slip differential allows some slip so you can go around corners (like the normal differential) but limits the amount of slipping so when you are driving with a heavy foot or are stuck, the one wheel only spins somewhat before the other starts to pull. Basically in corners a LSD makes your “1 wheel drive” car into a true two wheel drive car. Note: labor is expensive for these but many swear by them. Here’s a few popular options, there is little/no debate on which is best. All of them have very positive reviews for forum users. Should work for Gen 3 TSI but obviously not needed on performance pack GTI's.
•Peloquin (
http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=372)
•WaveTrac (
http://www.autotech.com/product/wavetrac-differentials/10-309-175WK.html?fromcat=)
•Quaife (
http://quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qdf19r-1)
Engine/transmission mount: These help reduce movement between the transmission, engine, and body. They can improve shifter feel, reduce wheel hop at the expense of increased NVH. Here are a few popular options. (Note: some of these include the dogbone mount)
•(Will update later)
Summary: This is just a start to the full guide; handling upgrades will be up next. I tried to be unbiased and use as many noteworthy companies as possible in my examples. If you have any questions, comments feel free to post or PM me.
DISCLAIMER: These are NOT the only products available. They are just examples of popular products used and trusted in the community. Please don't replywith individual parts that I didn't list.
Common phrases:
NVH- Noise, Vibration, and Harshness
VAG- Volkswagen Auto Group
Canned/Off-the-shelf tunes- tunes that aren’t specifically made for your car rather for similar modifications
HPFP- High Pressure fuel pump
DMF- Dual Mass Flywheel
SMF- Single Mass Flywheel
FWD- Front wheel drive
LSD- Limited Slip Differential