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Modding FAQ. All Information about modifying Mk7's.

Z27

Ready to race!
Location
New York
Excellent job on the write up!

Re: Intake - I would also like to see a write up comparing open vs closed style Intake systems. As someone coming from an open style aluminum build system, and switching to a closed carbon fiber / silicone version, I realized a noticeable improvement.

I believe aftermarket systems use aluminum piping so it doesn't expand under boost pressure - however, heat builds up which affects the air passing through. The piping becomes untouchable as soon as my engine oil comes up to optimal temperatures (200F). Some would argue that intake temperature is negligible because that's what intercoolers are for, but I believe that colder air coming in results to colder air going out (into the engine). This is where silicone is great. It doesn't expand like plastic but does a great job with heat prevention. Carbon fiber is also a very good heat resistant material. After driving around (200F oil temp), my new intake system is barely hot that I could actually work on it if I wanted to. Yes, closed systems are quieter but I would gladly give that up for performance gains.
 

StopSweatinMe

Ready to race!
Location
Croydon PA
Great post!!!!

I have been GIAC Stage 2 for 10k miles and can confirm a HPFP is unnecessary. AWE Tuning installed the tune and I can't find any info on GIAC's website stating an upgraded fuel pump is necessary.

An intercooler is listed as necessary for the stage 2 tune, but it's only necessary to make the stated numbers in hot weather. I'm still stock intercooler and the car feels totally transformed in cool weather. I guess it just pulls timing in the heat, but even with sticky summer tires, light wheels and the very long second gear of the 6mt, I still lose traction in second gear. In the cooler weather, with stock tires, second gear just spins until about 60 mph.

Edit: mid 60's temperature with summer tires. A second gear roll from 25-70mph

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Https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sCNbgD7Q8hs
 
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soulrvc

New member
Location
atlanta, georgia
I have a dsg mk7 gti :(, but any who, I'm just trying to increase the torque and hp on it. any basic stuff that I can do to it? like getting a new intake? my friends keep telling me to get a catback system whatever that it. its my first car so I don't know shit, any help would great thanks!!
 

GTI2016

Ready to race!
Location
So Cal
I have a dsg mk7 gti :(, but any who, I'm just trying to increase the torque and hp on it. any basic stuff that I can do to it? like getting a new intake? my friends keep telling me to get a catback system whatever that it. its my first car so I don't know shit, any help would great thanks!!

LOL.... uhm, read page 1 from the beginning and all your questions will be answered.
 

VWGTI

Ready to race!
Thoughts on a front mounter intercooler? Any links/suggestions?


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Tk_mkv1

Go Kart Champion
I have a dsg mk7 gti :(, but any who, I'm just trying to increase the torque and hp on it. any basic stuff that I can do to it? like getting a new intake? my friends keep telling me to get a catback system whatever that it. its my first car so I don't know shit, any help would great thanks!!


intake won't help much, an ecu tune or bms/power module mentioned on first page will increase tq, hp. you'll get smaller gains on neuspeed power module and BMS JB1, it's cheaper and you can install yourself. Catback exhaust is the outer portion of exhaust where tips are involved, it's not the full exhaust. It'll only change the tone of the sound, thats it.


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codespyder

Ready to race!
Location
Toronto
I have a dsg mk7 gti :(, but any who, I'm just trying to increase the torque and hp on it. any basic stuff that I can do to it? like getting a new intake? my friends keep telling me to get a catback system whatever that it. its my first car so I don't know shit, any help would great thanks!!
Your friend is, um, let's just politely say, misinformed.

Enjoy your new car but be patient and take your time before you start cranking in power if you're not sure what you're doing.

My GTI is my first car that I own as well. I spent 4 months reading and researching and understanding the ins-and-outs of my car before I made my first mod. I'm still a noob but I'm taking the time to learn and am thoroughly enjoying the process.

Simply saying "I want more hp and torque" isn't enough, in my opinion. It's important to understand how that is done with our cars and what the consequences, good and bad, will be from the actions you take. This takes time. Read through this excellent FAQ patiently and you'll learn lots already and hopefully it'll encourage you to make your own educated choices.

As an aside, if I were you, I'd take the time to learn and appreciate your car in stock mode before trying to put more power to it. VW know how to make a good car. Figure out what you think the car needs to satisfy your driving style rather than what other folks here have done. You might even be able to save a bit of money that way!

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soulrvc

New member
Location
atlanta, georgia
Your friend is, um, let's just politely say, misinformed.

Enjoy your new car but be patient and take your time before you start cranking in power if you're not sure what you're doing.

My GTI is my first car that I own as well. I spent 4 months reading and researching and understanding the ins-and-outs of my car before I made my first mod. I'm still a noob but I'm taking the time to learn and am thoroughly enjoying the process.

Simply saying "I want more hp and torque" isn't enough, in my opinion. It's important to understand how that is done with our cars and what the consequences, good and bad, will be from the actions you take. This takes time. Read through this excellent FAQ patiently and you'll learn lots already and hopefully it'll encourage you to make your own educated choices.

As an aside, if I were you, I'd take the time to learn and appreciate your car in stock mode before trying to put more power to it. VW know how to make a good car. Figure out what you think the car needs to satisfy your driving style rather than what other folks here have done. You might even be able to save a bit of money that way!

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Thanks man! Really appreciate that. Thats what ive been doing lately just looking up more stuff about my car. Guess it takes time. Any other discussions you would recommend?

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soulrvc

New member
Location
atlanta, georgia
intake won't help much, an ecu tune or bms/power module mentioned on first page will increase tq, hp. you'll get smaller gains on neuspeed power module and BMS JB1, it's cheaper and you can install yourself. Catback exhaust is the outer portion of exhaust where tips are involved, it's not the full exhaust. It'll only change the tone of the sound, thats it.


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Thanks man!

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GTI2016

Ready to race!
Location
So Cal
I second this request as this information is by far the most useful and informative post I've come across regarding all things mod related. And I thank Goingnowherefast for his time and effort.
 

natesheetz21

Passed Driver's Ed
Intercooler: Upgrading to a larger intercooler can decrease charge air temperatures and help resist heat soak better than the stock intercooler. This is turn means that you can make more power and maintain it for longer on hot days. There are very popular options around, some of the most popular are straight off of the Golf R. The Golf R can be had for $275 in some places, making it a great bang for buck upgrade but it will be cool as effectively as a true big intercooler.

•Golf R: (https://deutscheautoparts.com/mk7-g...5803p.html?_ga=1.7203703.412810425.1448293937)
•Revo: (https://deutscheautoparts.com/catal...de-revo/?_ga=1.251012803.412810425.1448293937)
•Unitronic: (https://deutscheautoparts.com/mk7-g...nic.html?_ga=1.251012803.412810425.1448293937)

Turbochargers:
This will be a huge topic because long story short his is how our little 2 liter four cylinder can make over 400-500whp with the right setup. A turbocharger uses exhaust gases to spin a turbine which is connected to a compressor. This compressor then sucks in air at a much higher rate than what it possible with a “naturally aspirated” application. The amount of pressure the turbocharger is producing can be measured in PSI or BAR with a boost gauge. Note: A boost gauge should literally be the first modification to do when adding power. Our cars come equipped with a IHI turbo which is good for a punchy 300 horsepower application but it is simply too small to move a large amount of air at high rpms. Choosing a turbocharger that is correct for your application and plans is extremely important. Finding out what your end goal is power wise is integral, for instance, if you just cruise around town and only attend local autoX and track days you may want a smaller frame IS38 turbocharger. If you’re building a tire shredding drag beast or highway hero you may want to select a large frame turbocharger like the GT30+ series.

In short…

Big turbos: More power but at higher rpm, longer spool up time.
Small turbos: Less power but accessible at a lower rpm, faster spool up time.
Here are a few popular options: (Kits are available from major tuners above) Smallest to largest

•Currently the IS38 is the only one on the market. (http://www.ctsturbo.com/cart/products/MK7_Golf_R_Audi_S3_Turbocharger_IS38-4872-0.html)

Driveline:

Making extra power is easy; getting it to the ground with an open diff FWD platform is another story. Here are a few common modifications that will help you put that power down and minimize negative FWD issues like wheel hop.

Dogbone insert/mount: Probably one of the cheapest modifications out there, these will help reduce wheel hop and give you better shifter feel (more direct). There are inserts or you can buy the full mount for even more feel. Keep in mind all engine and transmission mounts could transfer more NVH into the cabin. Should work for Gen 3 TSI.

•BSH (http://www.redline-motorworks.com/BSH_2_0T_TSI_Torque_Arm_Insert_p/10550103.htm)

Short-Shifter: A common myth of short shifter is that the main/only benefit is a shorter throw. Our cars being front wheel drive means that the transmission is in the front drivers side of the engine bay instead of directly under the shift lever like on some RWD cars. Basically the "Shifter" is the interface between the linkage and the actual gears. I.E It's very important. There is a few options that completely change the shifter feel while providing a shorter throw as well. I think the DieselGeek Sigma 6 deserves a special mention however and I'll tell you why... There is not one single modification except for that shifter that has so much universal praise between 3 full generations of VW's/Audi's on multiple different models. It is a VERY good product. I promise you that is the only subjective biased thing I will say in this whole write-up.

• DieselGeek Sigma 6 Shifter (http://www.dieselgeek.com/6_Speed_VW_Short_Shifter_p/ss-sigma6.htm)
• APR (http://www.goapr.com/products/short_shifter_trans_6mt.html)

Clutch: When adding more power our cars with a manual transmission you have to be aware that the stock clutch can only hold so much torque before slipping. You’ll see stories about people’s clutch slipping with just a tune, others will have no problems with the stock clutch on IS38 applications. Tons of factors go into this but basically you are adding more power to a clutch that was rated for maybe 350TQ at best so it’s a good idea to replace it. There’s many options to choose from but be aware, you will have to replace your DMF for almost every clutch with a SMF. Sometimes a really light SMF can produce a “chatter” of sorts and can be annoying for some. Along with this, a lighter clutch and flywheel combo will make your car rev faster and more freely. (Note: DSG users won’t need to worry about this) Here’s a few to choose from:

•RSR (http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=3888)

LSD: The differential allows the car to go around the corner with the outside wheel travelling further than the inside wheel without sliding. This is good for normal driving, but when you drive very heavy footed or when things are slippery, this normal differential allows the one wheel to spin and the other to just sit there and the car goes nowhere. A limited slip differential allows some slip so you can go around corners (like the normal differential) but limits the amount of slipping so when you are driving with a heavy foot or are stuck, the one wheel only spins somewhat before the other starts to pull. Basically in corners a LSD makes your “1 wheel drive” car into a true two wheel drive car. Note: labor is expensive for these but many swear by them. Here’s a few popular options, there is little/no debate on which is best. All of them have very positive reviews for forum users. Should work for Gen 3 TSI but obviously not needed on performance pack GTI's.

•Peloquin (http://www.hstuning.com/product_info.php?products_id=372)
•WaveTrac (http://www.autotech.com/product/wavetrac-differentials/10-309-175WK.html?fromcat=)
•Quaife (http://quaife.co.uk/shop/products/qdf19r-1)

Engine/transmission mount: These help reduce movement between the transmission, engine, and body. They can improve shifter feel, reduce wheel hop at the expense of increased NVH. Here are a few popular options. (Note: some of these include the dogbone mount)

•(Will update later)

Summary: This is just a start to the full guide; handling upgrades will be up next. I tried to be unbiased and use as many noteworthy companies as possible in my examples. If you have any questions, comments feel free to post or PM me.

DISCLAIMER: These are NOT the only products available. They are just examples of popular products used and trusted in the community. Please don't replywith individual parts that I didn't list.

Common phrases:
NVH- Noise, Vibration, and Harshness
VAG- Volkswagen Auto Group
Canned/Off-the-shelf tunes- tunes that aren’t specifically made for your car rather for similar modifications
HPFP- High Pressure fuel pump
DMF- Dual Mass Flywheel
SMF- Single Mass Flywheel
FWD- Front wheel drive
LSD- Limited Slip Differential


Any other recommendations on upgraded clutches? I'm apr stage 1 and experiencing a lot of clutch slip. Not my first manual car but not that savy with problems and what to look for in upgrading. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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Stage2Sasquatch

Go Kart Champion
Any other recommendations on upgraded clutches? I'm apr stage 1 and experiencing a lot of clutch slip. Not my first manual car but not that savy with problems and what to look for in upgrading. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


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Sorry I missed this. Here's a list of my recommended clutches:

1. RSR
2. Sachs SRE
3. 6GT Haus of Dub

All of those clutches seem to share some of the TTRS components which means OEM feel and low noise, with the power limits of nearly 450tq.
 

VWGTI

Ready to race!
Sorry if it's updated somewhere else in the thread and I've missed it, but is there anything on the FMIC here yet?


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