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Mk7 suspension issues/noises/advice. CLICK HERE FIRST!

Blunted_Brick

Go Kart Newbie
Location
usa
034 camber mounts are known for loose tolerances, which result in premature mount bearing failure
Says who? Googling "034 camber mount failure" doesn't yield much.
Heard lots of bad things about their track density mounts for the Mk6, but not these.
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Says who? Googling "034 camber mount failure" doesn't yield much.
Heard lots of bad things about their track density mounts for the Mk6, but not these.


Says a bunch of people here and on various FB pages. This along with a bunch of reported failures of 034: Engine mounts, transmission mounts, swaybar end links. It’s well documented, so don’t shoot the messenger.

I’m not sure your search really applies, since normally that kinda post would be along the lines of suspension noise or clunk and the end result is finding the camber mounts to be the issue
 

Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
034 products are junk. So many times I randomly come across those posts on audizine, golfmk7, and vwvortex. I've had almost every 034 product and every single one has broken. Same with my friend. Same with many people I've spoke to.
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
Anybody here running the 034 or Superpro camber mounts have excessive strut bearing noise with stationary/low speed turning? I have been through 6 suspension iterations, if you will, with a combination of these mounts both stock/lowered and still have noise. New strut bearings straight from the dealer each time. They are less than $10 each but at this point I think they're ruled out. Currently running the F part number, but ran E part before.

I had the 034 mounts (bought used) installed both lowered and at stock height. Had more noise on the right vs the left but the shop said they thought it was the 034 mount and not the strut bearing. I don't really buy that due to some other issues I had with their work and chalked it up to install issue. No big deal though. This setup was last run at stock height.

Decided to lower the vehicle on B8s with H&R sports, on the super pro mounts. This was on the E part number, lots of noise. Picking the car up today with F part numbers but shop says noise is still there despite then having multiple techs look/verify everything is good on the install. They're not seeing anything that should be a problem. I'll drive it for 500 miles or so, see if it quiets down but then I guess I'll go back to stock mounts. I love the way the car feels with camber but can't live with that noise, makes the car sound like crap, haha. Might look into LCAs or something but they don't give the camber of these mounts.

The best guess that we could come up with is that offsetting of the spring due to the non centered strut bolt mounting is causing uneven pressure on the bearing so it's not rotating smoothly. Kind of a bummer as my understanding of the point of these mounts is to allow you to continue using otherwise stock suspension setup. I've run camber plates on past vehicles and these are much less harsh, as expected but honestly the overall noise is much worse and constant. Those past setups would sometimes have low-speed turning noise if I was close to full lock but it was much more tolerable than what I've had with these. I could explain those but the noises I have now are embarrassing LOL. Any ideas, similar experiences around here?
 
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Navi

Autocross Champion
Location
BK/NYC/Hamptons
First time I've heard about noises from the 034 camber plates. I know a couple people and they love them. The 034 density street mounts are horrible though and will make noises and break suspension shafts. Very strange that it happens on your car with different suspension setups also. Subframe is tight? End links are tight?
 

Cuzoe

Autocross Champion
Location
Los Angeles
Subframe bolts were checked twice at my request. I checked endlinks myself after three of the installs and never found anything loose. The crazy thing is the noise starts at about 90 degrees of steering wheel rotation and continues all the way through full lock, in both directions, every time. Only with the suspension loaded of course. I have as close to zero doubt as possible that it's the strut bearings but I've replaced them every time, on my 7th set at this point, haha. Same noise with the 034 and SuperPro plates which leads me to think the design is putting uneven stress on the bearing.

I started a thread over on vortex and someone there posted a link to a video where the tech re-packed them to get rid of the noise, apparently suggested by SuperPro. I've used new bearings every time and wouldn't think it was necessary but it worked for them. This was on an S3 but all the same. It was also suggested on vortex by somebody with the 034 plates to add some teflon between the bearing/mount in addition to grease.

I went through a coin car wash and for about 10 minutes after leaving there was zero noise when turning. I don't know what all is getting wet up there but that's where the noise is coming from. My understanding is that nothing up there should be rotating except the top/bottom of the bearing and I wouldn't expect water to get in there or help if it did but getting things wet definitely worked. Other interesting thing is that I can't feel the it in the steering wheel or through the vehicle when it's making the noise.
 

DiscusInferno

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Kalifornia

and there is this from Solowerks using 034 Mount, is a lack of a washer is causing the noise, then the tolerance stackup of their mount is wrong, so a washer is the 034 fix.
 
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gtg223x

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
D.C.
I wish i would have seen this thread a few weeks ago. I had significant clunking from my rear sway bar installation, which turned out to be a loose endlink.

Here's a follow up question though - Even after tightening down all the bolts, about 3-4 weeks later one of the endlinks came loose again. Can you use locktite on MOOG endlinks? What if i used medium strength locktite.
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
I wish i would have seen this thread a few weeks ago. I had significant clunking from my rear sway bar installation, which turned out to be a loose endlink.

Here's a follow up question though - Even after tightening down all the bolts, about 3-4 weeks later one of the endlinks came loose again. Can you use locktite on MOOG endlinks? What if i used medium strength locktite.


Blue for semi permanent, red for permanent. Might need heat to break red loose so your call but either are good
 

Inprogress

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
TEXAS
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE
I recently had H&R coilovers installed and everything was fine for the first 2-3 days until I got my alignment. I got my car back from the alignment shop and now I have a creaking coming from the front of the vehicle. It doesn't happen when I go over bumps, nor does it happen during turns/cornering. It happens upon initial acceleration, deceleration, and occasionally when i'm cruising at a fixed speed. The only thing that has changed since the initial install of the coilovers was the alignment. During the alignment the shop had to cut out a portion of the strut opening to be able to adjust the camber plate, otherwise, it was impossible to reach. Attached is a picture of what I mean.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what could have caused this? I have a video, but I'm not sure how to host a video.
 

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GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
I recently had H&R coilovers installed and everything was fine for the first 2-3 days until I got my alignment. I got my car back from the alignment shop and now I have a creaking coming from the front of the vehicle. It doesn't happen when I go over bumps, nor does it happen during turns/cornering. It happens upon initial acceleration, deceleration, and occasionally when i'm cruising at a fixed speed. The only thing that has changed since the initial install of the coilovers was the alignment. During the alignment the shop had to cut out a portion of the strut opening to be able to adjust the camber plate, otherwise, it was impossible to reach. Attached is a picture of what I mean.

Does anyone have any suggestions on what could have caused this? I have a video, but I'm not sure how to host a video.

Probably that pointless little tab touching the strut top nut.

If you’re gonna cut strut tops cut them clean and completely...those jagged zig zags are a great way to induce cracks
 

Inprogress

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
TEXAS
Car(s)
2017 GTI SE
Probably that pointless little tab touching the strut top nut.

If you’re gonna cut strut tops cut them clean and completely...those jagged zig zags are a great way to induce cracks

I thought that strut nut doesn't move, and it doesn't creak more going through bumps or road imperfections. Could it be control arm bushings need silicone lubricant or lithium grease?

I'll ask my regular shop to cut it all the way around next time my car goes in
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
I
I thought that strut nut doesn't move, and it doesn't creak more going through bumps or road imperfections. Could it be control arm bushings need silicone lubricant or lithium grease?

I'll ask my regular shop to cut it all the way around next time my car goes in


It shouldn’t move, but if it’s really close the car flexing could allow it to touch (it’s mounted in rubber)

Also, there’s no grease points or need for lube on mk7 bushings unless you have something aftermarket that specifically calls for it
 
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