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Mk7 suspension issues/noises/advice. CLICK HERE FIRST!

htr

New member
Location
huron ohio
I’m just throwing this out the there. Not a pro but have done maybe 7 full aftermarket suspensions from mkv to mk7 (very similar). First off all weird clunks , squeaks and sounds , I’d say in my experience 90% it’s the end links . Then next is strut mount or bearings . I will say one thing to realize when checking for something loose is you’re not gonna know by yanking on components or putting a wrench on them real quick and even double checkin your torque specs . You really have to apply some real force to see if something is moving or loose . And I’m talking big pry bars and really giving them the beans damn near throwing the car off the jack stands !! How else you gonna get close to replicating a 3000lb*+ car plus all the other forces when turning , going over bumps , etcc… (I’ll let someone much smarter than me figure the loads that are generated in those situations) but it’s very hard to replicate in your garage , or drive way on jack stands . I know torque specs are important but sometimes especially when dealing with aftermarket suspension products don’t be afraid for maybe just a few more pounds .Also remember u want to try and tighten most suspension items under load and not in droop. … aftermarket endlinks will come loose !! Almost always , no matter how hard u tighten them, especially adjustable ones . Use some blue thread locker .
 

htr

New member
Location
huron ohio
Also if u changed your suspension and kept your sway bars , the geometry of the bar may have changed and the factory bars have the rubber sway bar bushing bonded to the bar which could cause noise . Aftermarket bars the bar can rotate within the bushing easily
 

walrussss

New member
Location
New Orleans
Car(s)
Sentra
Alright so I’m having suspensions sounds up at the driver front side. No noise when it was completely stock.

I changed out the brake pads the day before sending the car off for suspension “upgrade”. Eibach prokit , B8 shocks, superpro rsb and matching Endlinks, and 034 mounts

I notice the clunk the first day but I thought it was because it was an “active suspension”. Truthfully I thought it sounded cool at first. Similar to how 4x4 sounds when climbing rocks 🤦🏽‍♂️

Fast forward 1.5 months the clunk got worse. The shop that did install stated they checked everything out and it was the front Endlinks. I swapped out stock front Endlinks for spulen spherical myself . While that improved the sway I was having and some of the noise, a lot of it is still there.

Not sure where else to trouble shooot. Help. Sound is no longer cool. I would describe the sound as clunking with some clicks sprinkled in there
 

imthanick_a

Autocross Champion
Location
Ohio
I have centric posi-quiet pads. Ironic if they are the cause of the noise lol
after 3 years, im finally proving to myself and realizing that it is in fact my brakes pads clanging around inside the caliper that is causing my "suspension clunk". If I ride the brakes the very minimum amount possible before the car actually starts to slow down, the car doesnt clunk over bumps. wow
 

yakev724

Go Kart Champion
Location
NYC
Car(s)
2015 S3
after 3 years, im finally proving to myself and realizing that it is in fact my brakes pads clanging around inside the caliper that is causing my "suspension clunk". If I ride the brakes the very minimum amount possible before the car actually starts to slow down, the car doesnt clunk over bumps. wow

Had this exact same behavior and symptoms, even had a reputable shop tell me it was the brake pads. Ended up being a loose rear bushing in one of my LCAs. Even light braking would load up the front and eliminate the noise.

Not likely to be the case for many others as I had bushings pressed in. Factory assembled arms probably not likely to come apart.
 

imthanick_a

Autocross Champion
Location
Ohio
Had this exact same behavior and symptoms, even had a reputable shop tell me it was the brake pads. Ended up being a loose rear bushing in one of my LCAs. Even light braking would load up the front and eliminate the noise.

Not likely to be the case for many others as I had bushings pressed in. Factory assembled arms probably not likely to come apart.
interesting.. good to know!
 

nunex

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Portugal
Hi everyone,

Many thanks to GTI Jake for setting this thread, and for the community for keeping it alive.

I’m a proud owner of one of the first MK7 in Portugal, which is turning 10 years old (178.000 on the clock now).

A few months ago, she start developing some weird noises from the rear left suspension. I’m posting those, so you can point me some possible sugestions.

Timeline of events:

T-35.000km: Rear sway bar replaced with OEM GTI Clubsport S unit. End links replaced. All bolts and nuts replaced. All torqued down to specs.

T-16.000km: all 4 OEM original shocks replaced with KONI FSD. Front strut bearings (OEM) replaced. Rear shock mounts not replaced. All bolts and nuts new. Everything torqued to specs.

T-3.000km: Noises start developing.

First a subtle “knok-knok-knok” sound from the rear at low speed irregular pavement, that sounded like coming from a damaged top strut. Then the sound included some “creaks” at very low speed, when accommodating to uneven terrain, or pronounced slopes while parking.

T-1000km. Replaced the rear top mounts (still OEM with 178KKm) with Bilsteins, in the hope that these where the culprit. No luck.

As of today. Noises are already noticeable even by my wife 😊. I can clearly track the noise to the rear left suspension:

I made the car into an incline so to stand only in 3 wheels (attached), and rocked the rear of the car. I undoubtedly hear the noise from the left side. Link here.

To make sure, I had someone to ride in the rear of the car (rear sets folded 😊 ) that was able to confirm the origin of the sound while passing over speed bumps and to capture it. Link here.

Also, worth to mention that the noise is now omnipresent whenever the car passes over any irregularity of the road, and is louder when going uphill, or when I have cargo on the luggage compartment, i.e., when the rear suspension is more compressed.

I’ve already done a visual inspection, for something loose; I could not find nothing abnormal.

Any suggestions on where to go next?

Many thanks!
 

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GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Hi everyone,

Many thanks to GTI Jake for setting this thread, and for the community for keeping it alive.

I’m a proud owner of one of the first MK7 in Portugal, which is turning 10 years old (178.000 on the clock now).

A few months ago, she start developing some weird noises from the rear left suspension. I’m posting those, so you can point me some possible sugestions.

Timeline of events:

T-35.000km: Rear sway bar replaced with OEM GTI Clubsport S unit. End links replaced. All bolts and nuts replaced. All torqued down to specs.

T-16.000km: all 4 OEM original shocks replaced with KONI FSD. Front strut bearings (OEM) replaced. Rear shock mounts not replaced. All bolts and nuts new. Everything torqued to specs.

T-3.000km: Noises start developing.

First a subtle “knok-knok-knok” sound from the rear at low speed irregular pavement, that sounded like coming from a damaged top strut. Then the sound included some “creaks” at very low speed, when accommodating to uneven terrain, or pronounced slopes while parking.

T-1000km. Replaced the rear top mounts (still OEM with 178KKm) with Bilsteins, in the hope that these where the culprit. No luck.

As of today. Noises are already noticeable even by my wife 😊. I can clearly track the noise to the rear left suspension:

I made the car into an incline so to stand only in 3 wheels (attached), and rocked the rear of the car. I undoubtedly hear the noise from the left side. Link here.

To make sure, I had someone to ride in the rear of the car (rear sets folded 😊 ) that was able to confirm the origin of the sound while passing over speed bumps and to capture it. Link here.

Also, worth to mention that the noise is now omnipresent whenever the car passes over any irregularity of the road, and is louder when going uphill, or when I have cargo on the luggage compartment, i.e., when the rear suspension is more compressed.

I’ve already done a visual inspection, for something loose; I could not find nothing abnormal.

Any suggestions on where to go next?

Many thanks!

Check to make sure the sway bar is centered in its mounts, and not making contact with anything as the left suspension compresses.

Only other thing I’d check is that the rear shocks & RSB where torqued under load (suspension compressed at ride height).
 

nunex

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Portugal
Thanks for the hints, GTI Jake.

I confirm the RSB it is centered.
i also confirm the shocks have been torqued with suspension compressed.
But, now that you mention, i don't know if the RSB was torqued under load. So, i guess the next thing to do is to release the tension and redo the torque under load to be sure. Do you see a problem reusing the same bolts?

N.
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Thanks for the hints, GTI Jake.

I confirm the RSB it is centered.
i also confirm the shocks have been torqued with suspension compressed.
But, now that you mention, i don't know if the RSB was torqued under load. So, i guess the next thing to do is to release the tension and redo the torque under load to be sure. Do you see a problem reusing the same bolts?

N.

IIRC the mount bolts are TTY, but those aren’t what’s in question here. It would be the end link bolts
 

nunex

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Portugal
Update.
Released tension of RSB and retorqued to specs under load. No luck. The creaking noise was unchanged.

However, crawling under the car while someone rocked the suspension i could identify it comes the top mount area. I made my hand to the top of the shock as i go up the vibration is clearly increased.

I gave it a 2% chance that some internal rubbing on the sleeve or rod against the rubber bump stop, so i sprayed some silicon lub up the sleeve. No luck.

Something must be wrong up there, or i got a bad shock unit. I guess the next step is to remove the shock and upper mount for inspection.

N.
 

draza74

Go Kart Newbie
Location
OR
Car(s)
17 GTI
I'm about to scream.
So. I posted before about having creaking noises when steering and loose steering when turning my wheel.
Happens basically anytime under 35 mph.
The lower the speed, the louder it is.
The noise can even happen when going from a full stop to moving to the reverse.
Can even mimic the noise when simply shaking the car.

My friend said it must be the strut bearing.
Well, 2 shocks on my STs were blown anyway so I got new coilovers...
Still has creaking. FFW now and the noise is soo much worse than before.
I said before it must be the ball joint (driver side is where the noise is coming from) and my friend agreed. Ordered a new ball joint
anddddd still doing it. WHAT. THE. FUCK. is this noise?
I'm going to kill someone

Steering rack? Tie rod?

https://youtube.com/shorts/ba6P3jgwOe8
 

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
Alright so I’m having suspensions sounds up at the driver front side. No noise when it was completely stock.

I changed out the brake pads the day before sending the car off for suspension “upgrade”. Eibach prokit , B8 shocks, superpro rsb and matching Endlinks, and 034 mounts

I notice the clunk the first day but I thought it was because it was an “active suspension”. Truthfully I thought it sounded cool at first. Similar to how 4x4 sounds when climbing rocks 🤦🏽‍♂️

Fast forward 1.5 months the clunk got worse. The shop that did install stated they checked everything out and it was the front Endlinks. I swapped out stock front Endlinks for spulen spherical myself . While that improved the sway I was having and some of the noise, a lot of it is still there.

Not sure where else to trouble shooot. Help. Sound is no longer cool. I would describe the sound as clunking with some clicks sprinkled in there

If the steering rack is bad it’ll make clicking/clunking at full lock in both directions.

Sounds like oversized mud tires scraping plastic fender liners (pop pop pop pop pop).

Most of the time you don’t turn full lock, but that’s what I’ve found easiest to identify the issue.
 
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