GTI Jake
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Charlotte, NC
Man this topic has been popular lately. It’s definitely time to reduce clutter and focus all of these questions into one thread to clean up the forum and save everyone time and frustration.
HAVE A SQUEAK, CLUNK, or RATTLE?
You could check swaybar end links first, as they’re the quicker fix, but that’s most likely the strut mounts worn/loose.
I cannot stress enough the importance of properly applied torque via hand tools/torque wrench vs using airtools. Also, stretch or torque to yield hardware is often reused during suspension work, but doing so puts you at risk for premature wear or failures as well since it is always one time use per the manual, and comprised by design when the original torque is applied. Repeated torque applications will break these bolt or at the very least ruin their ability to tension lock themselves in place as they’re designed to do
WELL, I HAD MY SUSPENSION PROFESSIONALLY INSTALLED, MAYBE THIS NOISE IS “NORMAL”
I’m sorry, but that’s a hard NO. No suspension noise/clunks should be heard or felt no matter what. Any excuse claiming that’s just how it goes with aftermarket or upgraded parts is a flat out lie.
Not to discredit automotive techs at the dealership, Indy shop, your buddies house, etc. but often times corners are cut or “norms” (deviations from the OEM service manual considered “normal” because “everyone” does them) are accepted because they save time and money.
The most popular “norm” for techs is the use of airtools to apply torque. Specifically to the strut mount/bearing on the shocks and struts. That’s a wild guessing game of “how tight did it really get before the strut shaft spun?”...and that guessing game is on your dime risking the whole job needing to be redone with new mounts and bearings. Not cool.
SHOULD I LUBE IT?
No. By design there’s is no grease point nor anything to lube, so don’t bother with lithium grease or any other like idea. Won’t fix anything
HAVE A SQUEAK, CLUNK, or RATTLE?
You could check swaybar end links first, as they’re the quicker fix, but that’s most likely the strut mounts worn/loose.
I cannot stress enough the importance of properly applied torque via hand tools/torque wrench vs using airtools. Also, stretch or torque to yield hardware is often reused during suspension work, but doing so puts you at risk for premature wear or failures as well since it is always one time use per the manual, and comprised by design when the original torque is applied. Repeated torque applications will break these bolt or at the very least ruin their ability to tension lock themselves in place as they’re designed to do
WELL, I HAD MY SUSPENSION PROFESSIONALLY INSTALLED, MAYBE THIS NOISE IS “NORMAL”
I’m sorry, but that’s a hard NO. No suspension noise/clunks should be heard or felt no matter what. Any excuse claiming that’s just how it goes with aftermarket or upgraded parts is a flat out lie.
Not to discredit automotive techs at the dealership, Indy shop, your buddies house, etc. but often times corners are cut or “norms” (deviations from the OEM service manual considered “normal” because “everyone” does them) are accepted because they save time and money.
The most popular “norm” for techs is the use of airtools to apply torque. Specifically to the strut mount/bearing on the shocks and struts. That’s a wild guessing game of “how tight did it really get before the strut shaft spun?”...and that guessing game is on your dime risking the whole job needing to be redone with new mounts and bearings. Not cool.
SHOULD I LUBE IT?
No. By design there’s is no grease point nor anything to lube, so don’t bother with lithium grease or any other like idea. Won’t fix anything
Last edited:
