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MK7 "Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread"

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
Anyone have a good option to replace this BFI insert I’ve destroyed in the last 10 months? Not trying to rattle my dentures out of my head either. Thanks

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I'd recommend a powerflex diesel or street insert. Powerflex has a lifetime warranty, so should the unlikely event happen you get it replaced for free.

The diesel is 55A vs 70A of their yellow street version and your BFI insert. It fits all MQBs diesel or not thanks to shared parts.. just make sure to order the correct version. Only difference between street and BFI stage 1 is BFI only fills the lower void.

I've paired the diesel insert with my BFI stage 1 engine and transmission mounts. After about 400 miles they've calmed down considerably to be very comfortable. There is NVH, but it's very livable.

Examples of both, remember to double check version before ordering.
Diesel:
https://www.urotuning.com/products/...ert-mk7-vw-8v-audi-tdi-pre-7-27-16-pff85-830r

Street:
https://www.urotuning.com/products/...t-insert-mk7-vw-8v-audi-pre-7-27-16-pff85-830
 

D.Gage

Autocross Champion
Location
Virginia
Car(s)
17 Gti
I'd recommend a powerflex diesel or street insert. Powerflex has a lifetime warranty, so should the unlikely event happen you get it replaced for free.

The diesel is 55A vs 70A of their yellow street version and your BFI insert. It fits all MQBs diesel or not thanks to shared parts.. just make sure to order the correct version. Only difference between street and BFI stage 1 is BFI only fills the lower void.

I've paired the diesel insert with my BFI stage 1 engine and transmission mounts. After about 400 miles they've calmed down considerably to be very comfortable. There is NVH, but it's very livable.

Examples of both, remember to double check version before ordering.
Diesel:
https://www.urotuning.com/products/...ert-mk7-vw-8v-audi-tdi-pre-7-27-16-pff85-830r

Street:
https://www.urotuning.com/products/...t-insert-mk7-vw-8v-audi-pre-7-27-16-pff85-830
Thank you very much! I’ll have to get back under the car, can’t remember which version I need. Edit* I’m good lol, I found pics I took of my mount from last time I was buying it.
 
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shovelhd

Autocross Champion
Location
Western MA
I'm going to be installing an ARM FMIC soon. Are there any tricks to removing the bumper cover without breaking the clips? 2018 Autobahn. The cover has never been off.
 

manu97

Autocross Champion
Location
Chicago
Car(s)
MK7 R
I'm going to be installing an ARM FMIC soon. Are there any tricks to removing the bumper cover without breaking the clips? 2018 Autobahn. The cover has never been off.
Don't do it if it's cold out. And a second person really helps
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
I'm going to be installing an ARM FMIC soon. Are there any tricks to removing the bumper cover without breaking the clips? 2018 Autobahn. The cover has never been off.
I've dropped my bumper too many times to count now. First time is the hardest because the clips are stiff.

Take your time and work from one side at a time. Once you have the fender clips free, it's easier to pull and undo the clips in the middle.

You'll have to bend or cut the current ambient air sensor bracket. I had to, and other report too, cut/break it. May need to grind it down depending on how it comes off.

Other than that. Their instructions are a bit out of order. I'd mount the core first and then fiddle with the sleeves and pipes. Their instructions have you mount them prior to install and I found that to make adjustment and spacing a pain. Would have been easier to gap and align with the core mounted first.

Good thread with Info from those that have installed it:

https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/arm-fmic-install-tip.384492/
 
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shovelhd

Autocross Champion
Location
Western MA
Thank you very much. Two great points. Work the bumper cover off outside to inside, and mount the core first.

I won't have help, but I have plenty of moving pads and boards to support it as I detach it.

We had one warm day this week, into the mid 60's. I was wailing on it a bit, and after pulling away from a stop light I could feel the heat soak. I gotta do this soon.
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
Thank you very much. Two great points. Work the bumper cover off outside to inside, and mount the core first.

I won't have help, but I have plenty of moving pads and boards to support it as I detach it.

We had one warm day this week, into the mid 60's. I was wailing on it a bit, and after pulling away from a stop light I could feel the heat soak. I gotta do this soon.
Yup, sorry if that first response was a little hard to follow. I normally undo the passenger side fender bumper clips, then driver, and then pull the remove from the middle. Makes getting it off easier in my opinion and you have better leverage to not drop/drag a corner.

When reinstalling the bumper I find it is easier to work in reverse, get the middle/grille clips lined up and then work out to each side. Be careful though as when you do this the sides of the bumper can scrape against the headlights when fitting the bumper back. Just move slow and keep an eye on them. Once the middle is mounted they hang past the headlights so no worries moving to secure one side or the other after that.

Think you'll love the ARM FMIC. It's been great for me so far and logs look good.
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
So here is a good one.

In theory running an aluminum or other metal oil filter housing without the GTD passenger side block off plate, would one see slightly lower oil temps due to cooling vs the the stock plastic housing?

Savanini and a few others claim lower oil temps by 6-10 degrees. Just curious if anyone with one has observed this.
 

Mreed055

Go Kart Champion
Location
CA
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport
it might be related, but you should really get a dogbone insert/puck either way
I think it depends on the type of driving you do maybe if it’s needed or would benefit you. I have the BFI stage 1 insert on mine and hate it.
 

cb1111

Newbie
Location
Virginia, USA
So here is a good one.

In theory running an aluminum or other metal oil filter housing without the GTD passenger side block off plate, would one see slightly lower oil temps due to cooling vs the the stock plastic housing?

Savanini and a few others claim lower oil temps by 6-10 degrees. Just curious if anyone with one has observed this.
Unpossible. While the metal housing in theory dissipates heat better than plastic, the amount of time that oil spends in the filter is insignificant relative to the time it spends in the hot engine.

So yes, it may reduce the temps but if anything it'll be in 100ths of degrees, not 6-10 degrees.
 
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