i think youd want a 20 amp charger for the stock battery. that's what i read on here a while back, i could be wrong.
7
MK7 "Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread"
- Thread starter phant0m
- Start date
jimlloyd40
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Phoenix
- Car(s)
- 2018 SE DSG
You're correct. 20 amp is what Cobb says.
jimlloyd40
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Phoenix
- Car(s)
- 2018 SE DSG
Well... shit, I guess I'll be throwing a 75ft extension cord off of the third floor of my apartment.
I dry my car with a leaf blower. Trust me, u won’t look that crazy
Nineeightyone
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Pennsylvania
- Car(s)
- 20 CX5 19 GTI 10 MZ3
Not in the 7.5, but you can swap the early mk7 overhead cluster to gain them. I hear the they're mildly tricky to retrofit, but not overly difficult. Like a 2-3/10, from reading. I haven't done it personally, but I can dig for the part number/diy on here if you'd like.
No that's fine, thanks for offering to do that. Seems like an odd delete when they came out with the 7.5 because the car already has several "style" interior lighting options that aren't functional. I get that the bean-counters may have been looking to save a few cents here and there, but back-lit buttons for lighting that you might be trying to turn on in the dark seems a nonsensical place to start.
Nineeightyone
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Pennsylvania
- Car(s)
- 20 CX5 19 GTI 10 MZ3
Man, I'm full of stupid questions.
What's the general informed opinion on BFI's Stage 1 dogbone puck insert versus Powerflex's hybrid? The pricetag difference is pretty hefty, I've had excellent results with BFI's mounts in the past so I'm leaning towards theirs. Installation appears to be pretty easy/straightforward, and I don't really intend to replace the OEM arm, just want to stiffen up shifts a bit. I have BFI's stage 1 engine/trans mounts on my mk4 and stage 2 dogbone insert and the NVH is completely reasonable, so I don't think that's going to be an issue, my biggest concern is overall longevity of the parts (i.e., I don't want to be replacing the existing rubber mount in 6 months). Definitely going to look at doing the BFI stage 1 engine/transmission mounts on this car in the next year or so.
The car is pretty much just a weekend driver/fun car, so it doesn't get driven excessively hard, occasional autocrosses are a thing though when the racecar isn't in operation.
This thread has pointed me towards the BFI mount being relatively tame in terms of NVH and makes me think the Powerflex Hybrid option isn't worth the extra coin, but I'd love some more educated feedback. Thanks in advance!
What's the general informed opinion on BFI's Stage 1 dogbone puck insert versus Powerflex's hybrid? The pricetag difference is pretty hefty, I've had excellent results with BFI's mounts in the past so I'm leaning towards theirs. Installation appears to be pretty easy/straightforward, and I don't really intend to replace the OEM arm, just want to stiffen up shifts a bit. I have BFI's stage 1 engine/trans mounts on my mk4 and stage 2 dogbone insert and the NVH is completely reasonable, so I don't think that's going to be an issue, my biggest concern is overall longevity of the parts (i.e., I don't want to be replacing the existing rubber mount in 6 months). Definitely going to look at doing the BFI stage 1 engine/transmission mounts on this car in the next year or so.
The car is pretty much just a weekend driver/fun car, so it doesn't get driven excessively hard, occasional autocrosses are a thing though when the racecar isn't in operation.
This thread has pointed me towards the BFI mount being relatively tame in terms of NVH and makes me think the Powerflex Hybrid option isn't worth the extra coin, but I'd love some more educated feedback. Thanks in advance!
Dog Dad Wagon
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Go Birds
- Car(s)
- 16 Touareg TDI
BFI's Stage 1 dogbone insert is pretty low on the totem pole in terms of effectiveness. It doesn't even have the upper inserts that BFI's Stage 2 insert has. I wouldn't do any insert that lacks an upper portion for the upper voids in the upper OEM bushing.
If your car is a manual, the Hybrid bushing really doesn't increase NVH too much as long as you keep the revs at like 1500+ when taking off. You'll get some vibes rolling in 1st/2nd gear in traffic. But in all other circumstances it'll feel fine, only now every time you shift you will experience sublime solidity in the drivetrain. As people describe it, you feel the engine/trans "set" in place when you clutch in/out, whereas stock you just feel it all bounce around.
If you're DSG and the vibrations scare you, I would stick to inserts and forgo the hybrid bushing.
Nineeightyone
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Pennsylvania
- Car(s)
- 20 CX5 19 GTI 10 MZ3
Thanks, this is the kind of input I'm after.
In reading, it sounds like the 'upper' portions of the mounts require the subframe to be lowered/dropped in order to install, which I'm trying to avoid, as they're stretch bolts (and yes, I'm lazy and don't want to drop the subframe until I decide to do a FSB). And yes, 6MT.
Definitely not concerned about excessive vibrations, considering that most folks feel stage 1 all around are too much. Am I incorrect that the hybrid Powerflex mount requires the subframe to be lowered/a clamp needs to be rigged up to install a hybrid-style mount?
Do you (or anyone else reading) have a suggestion for an ideal mount insert, I'd love to hear it. I know I'm being whiny about putting in some work, but I'm trying to be smart about when I take certain things apart/make certain upgrades -- if the subrame has to come down, then I'll put off the hybrid mount until subframe deadset kit and FSB time, so I don't have to repeatedly deal with stretch bolts.
Thank you again!
Dog Dad Wagon
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Go Birds
- Car(s)
- 16 Touareg TDI
I do not believe hybrid insert requires you to drop the subframe. It just requires cutting the lower insert out. The hybrid REPLACES the lower bushing, and inserts into the voids in the upper bushing.
I could be wrong though, it may require dropping the subframe.
I have APR Lower Steel insert and 034 Upper aluminum inserts on otherwise stock mounts and I'd bet that, if you went a similar route you'd be pretty happy with it. You already have the BFI uppers which will work really well in conjunction with the inserts.
And if you got sick of that, or felt performance decrease over time, you could then do the hybrid bushing down the line when you do the FSB.
Nineeightyone
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Pennsylvania
- Car(s)
- 20 CX5 19 GTI 10 MZ3
Thanks, this is great info! Cutting out the OEM mount is a little bit committal, but I can get behind that. I'll look into a DIY on the hybrid bushing (as the instructional PDFs don't seem to want to open for me, but that's a whole different animal) and if everything can be done without too much issue, I'll go the Powerflex route. I'm a big fan of their strut bushings on my mk4, and they generally seem to offer excellent products.
Edit, for anyone else who's interested, I found this thread: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...ing-the-powerflex-hybrid-dogbone-puck.351452/
ShopDap has a youtube video with an install DIY:
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Ezekiel81923
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Royersford, PA
- Car(s)
- 2019 Volkswagen GTI
Can confirm, Powerflex hybrid mount is just cutting out the bottom puck. No need to drop the subframe. It's real easy.
I went with the "Race" variant which is the stiffest of the three replacements they offer. As stated, the hybrid replaces the entire lower puck and acts as an insert for the upper puck.
It feels right.