MK7 "Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread"

[Dameon]

Brake question. Last sunday, my brakes went out a few blocks from home. Limped home using the E brake and discovered the passenger side front line had come loose and rubbed against the wheel and was leaking. Lost a bunch of fluid. Had to wait five days for the new line to show up. Changed lines and fluid on friday. Bled in the correct order and the brakes feel solid (312 rotors with prodigywerks four piston) but there’s now a solenoid-ish sound (one click when I push the brake pedal and one or two when I let go) coming from the drivers side front when I did a slow speed drive around the block. Could it be a loose pad? Is it the ABS? My plan was to activate the ABS tomorrow and bleed again but

Update. The noise is coming from the caliper or maybe the line. It's a squeak when the brakes are applied and released.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ULZd8IJIYw8?feature=shared

 

[EpicTech]

Update. The noise is coming from the caliper or maybe the line. It's a squeak when the brakes are applied and released.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ULZd8IJIYw8?feature=shared

Check the metal clips on the pads. I had one break clean through and made the most god awful high pitch squeal.

 

[uberdot]

Update. The noise is coming from the caliper or maybe the line. It's a squeak when the brakes are applied and released.

https://youtube.com/shorts/ULZd8IJIYw8?feature=shared

Sounds like it’s mostly sorted, just pad lube or clips like Epic mentioned. But Definitely bleed the ABS if you lost enough fluid down to the master

 

[hans611]

Is it bad to shift the car out of gear without the clutch, when coasting slowly down to a red light / stop sign? Im doing that a lot now that my comute is a lot of "city" driving....

I make sure there is zero load on the transmission (no engine braking, no engine acceleration) so it literally pops out of gear with the minimalist effort.... if the rpm is higher and the engine braking is considerable, I sometimes blip the throttle and it pops out easily... never use any considerable force...

From what I am reading, the issue is shifting INTO gear with a synchronized transmission.... and poping it OUT of gear is fine, unless you use extra force, which then can wear the cable linkage...? I make sure there is virtually no more force than normal....

 

[Subliminal]

Is it bad to shift the car out of gear without the clutch, when coasting slowly down to a red light / stop sign? Im doing that a lot now that my comute is a lot of "city" driving....

I make sure there is zero load on the transmission (no engine braking, no engine acceleration) so it literally pops out of gear with the minimalist effort.... if the rpm is higher and the engine braking is considerable, I sometimes blip the throttle and it pops out easily... never use any considerable force...

From what I am reading, the issue is shifting INTO gear with a synchronized transmission.... and poping it OUT of gear is fine, unless you use extra force, which then can wear the cable linkage...? I make sure there is virtually no more force than normal....

If you do it properly then ya I don't think there's any issue... feels fine and doesn't grind or make any noises at least. Super light throttle as the revs fall down near idle, then let off the gas and the shifter should pop right out no problem.

But with that said I don't think using the clutch in that situation really adds much wear and tear either.

 

[EpicTech]

Would I gain anything with MPI kit and LPFP with my current IS38?, It would allow me run ethanol obviously. I just am curious on the gains if any. Or just wait for the Mamba?

 

[Wizzi]

I finally found a way to counter my crazy 2 second+ rev hang and it’s not something I like. Asked eqt if they can resend me my tune I bought from them but this time enable burble on both normal and sport. The ignition cut brings the rpm down just enough for me to shift into the next gear immediately. I hate burble tho and can’t even hear it since I’m running a muffler and res basically meaning I’m burning the cat in the ie downpipe for no reason. Wish tuners would actually just code it out for you, I don’t understand the limitations resulting in them not being able to do it. It really makes me regret not buying a dsg. :/

 

[JerseyDrew77]

Would I gain anything with MPI kit and LPFP with my current IS38?, It would allow me run ethanol obviously. I just am curious on the gains if any. Or just wait for the Mamba?

Since nobody answered your question, I will. Will you stick to 93 pump or switch to full E85? If you do go full E, then you should see a slight increase of power going from 93 to E85, which I'm sure you already know that. Other than that, if you run full E with MPI you have the cleaning aspect of it for your intake valves.

 

[StorableComa]

Hard to say on a GTI, I know the 1.8 you need MPI on an IS38 to get the full range of the turbo, but the 1.8 has smaller injectors and HPFP than the 2.0. You may be able to get away with just a LPFP on the IS38 running full E85, but I'd ask @Diggs24 or someone else more versed in the 2.0 and tuning.

 

[Wizzi]

How about just sticking to 93? Can we expect some gains with fueling or does the stock fueling push the turbo to its peak?

Hard to say on a GTI, I know the 1.8 you need MPI on an IS38 to get the full range of the turbo, but the 1.8 has smaller injectors and HPFP than the 2.0. You may be able to get away with just a LPFP on the IS38 running full E85, but I'd ask @Diggs24 or someone else more versed in the 2.0 and tuning.

 

[sailor74]

Also, make sure the caliper guide pins are well lubricated and not binding up.

jUst fitted new discs and pads to 2015 Golf R, this has 340mm discs and floating pads. had some question as to which pin went where . one pin has a small flat area running along, and the other does not have a flat, but has a rubber sleeve fitted at the inner.
According to some threads here, the pin with the rubber sleeve goes on the top, and the other goes on the bottom.
When assembling it seems a bad idea to allow any grease onboard of the rubber seal, because it binds up hydraulically. and takes a fair force to push it all the way in, although it has some flutes along it, which should allow grease (or air) to flow if there's any trapped. I think, correct me if I am wrong, but the idea of the rubber bit is to provide a little bit of friction/resistance and dampen any vibration and allow the pads to sit clear of the disc when brakes not applied. As the disc will have some runout the pads will be pushed slightly off the disc when running. The rubber bit will then hold and allow the pads to sit clear.
The other pin I think has the small flat on one side which would allow grease to flow along it, so it is free to slide with minimal resistance.
I cannot think of any technical reason why the rubber loaded pin should be at the top, but maybe there is one. However, it seems that at least one of the pins must NOT have a flat along it, and this then is the master one as far as load goes and locate the caliber accurately, so why not put it at the top.
I have not YET found a technical document which says,, put the rubber loaded pin on the top, and would be interested to know where it is specified., but we did find that's where the thing was when first disassembling. so if its been ok for 50k miles it must be OK!

 

[Acadia18]

jUst fitted new discs and pads to 2015 Golf R, this has 340mm discs and floating pads. had some question as to which pin went where . one pin has a small flat area running along, and the other does not have a flat, but has a rubber sleeve fitted at the inner.
According to some threads here, the pin with the rubber sleeve goes on the top, and the other goes on the bottom.
When assembling it seems a bad idea to allow any grease onboard of the rubber seal, because it binds up hydraulically. and takes a fair force to push it all the way in, although it has some flutes along it, which should allow grease (or air) to flow if there's any trapped. I think, correct me if I am wrong, but the idea of the rubber bit is to provide a little bit of friction/resistance and dampen any vibration and allow the pads to sit clear of the disc when brakes not applied. As the disc will have some runout the pads will be pushed slightly off the disc when running. The rubber bit will then hold and allow the pads to sit clear.
The other pin I think has the small flat on one side which would allow grease to flow along it, so it is free to slide with minimal resistance.
I cannot think of any technical reason why the rubber loaded pin should be at the top, but maybe there is one. However, it seems that at least one of the pins must NOT have a flat along it, and this then is the master one as far as load goes and locate the caliber accurately, so why not put it at the top.
I have not YET found a technical document which says,, put the rubber loaded pin on the top, and would be interested to know where it is specified., but we did find that's where the thing was when first disassembling. so if its been ok for 50k miles it must be OK!

There you go. Just checked that not too long ago for someone else.

 

[Anthony3o55]

I been having a weird intermittent issue where I'll start the car and it have a rough start on a warm engine. No codes. Sometimes i'll try to crank over but it won't start. If it does crank over it would start, sputter and die immediately. Doing it multiple times until it starts up. At times I'll have to give it gas to keep it running on start up if I can even catch it before it dies on me. Car drives perfectly fine, hits boost good and starts with no issues at times but this been issue has been happening for a while now with no result of finding the culprit. I don't want to be stranded one night if I go out alone needing a tow. Currently at 103k miles. Carbon cleaning and Injectors were done around 50-60k miles can't recall. Spark plugs were replaced 5k miles ago maybe less. Coils has been a while though maybe did it at 40k.

So what could this be? I've done countless research and everyone's issue are different. I'm thinking if it could be the HPFP or the fuel pump that sits in the car. Or maybe fuel rail? I have an OBD11. Not sure on how to read the pressure to know what range is good and bad. Thanks in advance

 

[Kushdaiin]

View attachment 295310


View attachment 295311


There you go. Just checked that not too long ago for someone else.

DId you remove the facia plate to push the piston back in? Just curious if you did, how did your plate stubs fair? Mine have previously broken.

 

[Acadia18]

DId you remove the facia plate to push the piston back in? Just curious if you did, how did your plate stubs fair? Mine have previously broken.

These are off the car, so the piston hasn't been pushed back in yet

But when I did it last time, yes, I popped them off. Mine didn't break.