MK7 "Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread"

[Wizzi]

They do, it's a twintercooler.

Forge has one.
https://www.forgemotorsport.com/Twintercooler_for_Golf_GTi_Mk7_Colour_Blue_Hoses--product--1025.html?colour=blue+hoses&gclid=CjwKCAjwnOipBhBQEiwACyGLutC3n5WKxkby8pPE6lD-WvEUYJuLWdmBSGnIrm1tkks2N5wTZscITRoCWUgQAvD_BwE

Or a lot of people use the eBay majesty one
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192910256056?epid=23022611100&hash=item2cea58e7b8:g:i0IAAOSwsQJi-bvb

I noticed even in canada, in stop and go traffic with the ac on my iat will hit 187 according to cob, thats with a ie ic.

 

[DSC808]

I noticed even in canada, in stop and go traffic with the ac on my iat will hit 187 according to cob, thats with a ie ic.

Does not matter what type of IC you have for stop and go traffic, will always have high IAT. Personally I fee like the FMIC/TwinC cools a little faster, but the stock location IC does a marginally better job overall.
I've had both. Can't say which was better. TwinC was easier to install though

 

[mrtuminaro]

I always wondered why people don't run a fmic with the stock ic at the same time "like reroute the pipes so both can be used", is there a major drawback from doing this?

There’s usually an associated drop in manifold air pressure with twintercoolers when you’re running higher temps, like pushing it at the track. Most street cars will see similar, if not better, numbers if you run a larger IC in the stock location.


Here’s ShopDAP explanation for your viewing pleasure.

 

[mrmatto]

I always wondered why people don't run a fmic with the stock ic at the same time "like reroute the pipes so both can be used", is there a major drawback from doing this?

Many do. It is an effective setup.

 

[EpicTech]

These work on the EA888 ?

https://www.realstreetperformance.com/brian-crower-h-beam-rods-volkswagen-1-8t-golf-jetta-a4-tt.html

 

[JerseyDrew77]

These work on the EA888 ?

https://www.realstreetperformance.com/brian-crower-h-beam-rods-volkswagen-1-8t-golf-jetta-a4-tt.html

The rod length on those are fine but their wrist pin is a size smaller; you want a 21mm wrist pin.

 

[EpicTech]

The rod length on those are fine but their wrist pin is a size smaller; you want a 21mm wrist pin.

Ah yes, 21mm. I remember reading that somewhere about the Mahle rods.

 

[Subliminal]

I see CXCB is the engine code for mk7 gti perf pack, but my sticker just shows "CXC". Can someone confirm for me it's all the same before I order up a new injector?

 

[Jachas]

I see CXCB is the engine code for mk7 gti perf pack, but my sticker just shows "CXC". Can someone confirm for me it's all the same before I order up a new injector?

On engine cover you almost always you have only 3 of 4 digits of engine code, because last digit is for "power differentiation", and mostly only ECU software differs. The easiest way to confirm last digit is sticker in spare wheel area or sticker in owner's manual (they're the same)

But in your case, injectors in CXCA and CXCB are the same, 06A 906 036 G with repair/sealing kit 06J 998 907 B

 

[Subliminal]

On engine cover you almost always you have only 3 of 4 digits of engine code, because last digit is for "power differentiation", and mostly only ECU software differs. The easiest way to confirm last digit is sticker in spare wheel area or sticker in owner's manual (they're the same)

But in your case, injectors in CXCA and CXCB are the same, 06A 906 036 G with repair/sealing kit 06J 998 907 B

Thanks, I've looked before for that sticker in my spare tire area and it's not there. Just noticed yesterday mine is located on the bottom of the hood for whatever reason and that one did indeed show CXCB

 

[mrmatto]

At what point should I replace my wheel bolts? I'm pretty regularly swapping wheels for autocross.

 

[Kdubya]

Alright so I’m at a crossroad - and need your help cause i feel dumb: resulting in dumb question thread

Wife has given me the green light for the next car mod but i keep Crossing out my options for big purchases

1.) downpipe - i am Stage 1 currently and want to stay stage 1.. I’m not really sure if it would be worth the purchase because I’m reading a DP on stage 1 is not effective and may cause a CEL.
2) save for clutch: although the clutch is $1500, labor is a different ballgame but i would Have it on hand and ready to go. (I only Drive on the weekends, no track, stock clutch is holding just fine)
3.) Mounts - been looking at BFI mounts, no harm or no Foul With these mods but again not racing, do i need Them?
4.) iS38 turbo: i can purchase the turbo and then go with the APR OG tune on stock DP (it’s still
Available from APR) but either way clutch would need to be done at that point.
5.) Carbon Fiber Hood- my hood has numerous rock chips and defects in it and was obviously repainted by the original owner and did a shit job, buying the hood would be similar cost to
Repaint the hood lol- but if i go with route it’s gunna be focusing on cosmetics for a while.

Again all big purchases, car is driven on weekends and don’t really race.

 

[DSC808]

For simplicity APR DTR. Everything you need (turbo for stock DP AND tune). Will need a clutch down the line.
If you get a DP, might as well go Stage 2…. and if you do that, might as well get a turbo…. DTR….
I think most aftermarket hoods are fugly. The only “decent” ones are Varis or Premium Deutsch Carbon. Both color matched (kinda ruins the point of having a CF hood).
But I’m cheap. I’d just vinyl wrap it

 

[ucfquattroguy]

FWIW, I went from APR Stage 1 to IS38 on the OG OE DP 93oct file. If what you're after is the OEM+ IS38 drive character...this is the way. Sure you're leaving 25hp and some torque on the table, but you're emissions compliant and not dealing with solving for resonance cause by high-flow DP. I've got the CSS rear muffler and it's pretty gnarly. A high-flow DP would be maddening.

APR did try to sell me on the DTR kit when asking about OE DP files. Based on what I'd seen on dynos and owner reviews...shifting the torque/power out further than the IS38 wasn't what I wanted.

 

[Acadia18]

At what point should I replace my wheel bolts? I'm pretty regularly swapping wheels for autocross.

Why not go studs?

(No idea about the actual answer to your question)