7
MK7 "Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread"
- Thread starter phant0m
- Start date
Love Work Wheels myself.
Finally it was my turn! Great tip to go from the outside, it makes pushing out the pin that holds the plug for the actuator super easy, just push it out with a flathead....
I tried my best to save the old door but it snapped as expected...
Unfortunately I couldn't get the pin for the actuator back in the little hole from the outside though, super awkward position.... After like 30min and some blood/sweat, I went for the inside....
But getting to it from the inside is not hard at all, just remove the trunk light, pull back the carpet and pull the bottom trunk trim back like done in this guide, you only need a little clearance...
Honestly very simple, all the clips come off easy and there is just one pin that you need to make sure goes back in it's hole before snapping it back in after you are done....
I was able to push the pin from the inside with my left hand while feeling for the little hole from the outside on my right hand, I had it in within 30s...
The old housing was honestly nasty, the drainage hose was completely blocked, I had not realized how bad it was... I cleaned the inside of the wheel well like a maniac before putting the new housing back in....
The painted panel/cover slipped back into the new door housing no problem.... Finally have a working fuel cap door and it all looks brand new at least!
Daily Driver
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- New York
- Car(s)
- 2020 GTI SE
Im swapping out a Turbo.
Am I able to check for oil and coolant leaks on the Turbo lines without installing the Intake or the discharge Pipes?
Am I able to check for oil and coolant leaks on the Turbo lines without installing the Intake or the discharge Pipes?
Well if you are swapping a turbo, you are going to have lines disconnected anyway?, check them..
Daily Driver
Drag Racing Champion
- Location
- New York
- Car(s)
- 2020 GTI SE
I should of reworded it.
I don't have any current issues, Just swapping to upgrade the Turbo.
After install is complete I need to start the car to check for oil or coolant leaks, am I able to do it without installing the Intake or Charge pipes? Not driving, just letting it idle to Temp and have the oil and coolant flow through the Turbo. Incase there's a leak in the back of the turbo, i can easily get to it from the side with the intake and discharge pipes off. Instead of disconnecting everything again.
Oh I gotcha. Well I want to say with the way the ecu and sensors (MAP & PUT) work together and check for airflow, that the car won't run unless it sees a measurable air charge? If they are disconnected the sensors will send a signal outside of normal. I could be wrong and the car does start/run, but I would think the idle will be very choppy and all over the place. My Supra did this but yea, different platform. I remember unplugging the MAP sensor would kill the engine, some kind of safety parameter? I can't say for sure if VAG cars have that or not, but I would imagine someone who tunes on this platform would know. Let's see if they chime in.
Giuseppe Busso
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Greece
- Car(s)
- Seat Leon mk3 1.8 FR
Hello guys. I want to ask about recirculation valve.
My car is manual and many times when pushing hard, changing from 2nd to 3rd and especially from 3rd to 4rth gear (also 4rth --->5th), i feel the car like kneeling and then pushing again. I don't know if it's the proper word to describe it.... Anyway, we pulled out the OEM DV and stretch the spring of the DV. Initially i saw an improvement, it was eliminated. But after some kilometers the same.
So my question is if i buy a Forge DV, will fix this?
https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/R...FHYgwCMSHnxZtf2yewRjBHqHZvpOurjvmKZ-gMdbvUUig
It's annoying because i try to do 60-200km/h, flat-shifting, and i believe this is an issue.
Opinions?
My car is manual and many times when pushing hard, changing from 2nd to 3rd and especially from 3rd to 4rth gear (also 4rth --->5th), i feel the car like kneeling and then pushing again. I don't know if it's the proper word to describe it.... Anyway, we pulled out the OEM DV and stretch the spring of the DV. Initially i saw an improvement, it was eliminated. But after some kilometers the same.
So my question is if i buy a Forge DV, will fix this?
https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/R...FHYgwCMSHnxZtf2yewRjBHqHZvpOurjvmKZ-gMdbvUUig
It's annoying because i try to do 60-200km/h, flat-shifting, and i believe this is an issue.
Opinions?
I want to Dyno my car (shop locally), is it possible to fry a clutch on a dyno?
The reason why i am Asking is cause I’m APR high torque stage I.. i just Don’t know if looking into the Dyno to see some real numbers would be worth it or may end up with a $4000 repair.
The reason why i am Asking is cause I’m APR high torque stage I.. i just Don’t know if looking into the Dyno to see some real numbers would be worth it or may end up with a $4000 repair.
I dyno'd mine with stock clutch and Unitronic Stage 2 tune. Did like 5 pulls. Upgraded my clutch some 20k miles later.
check the injector harness and/or ground wire ??
Those seem fine. At first there was just P1007 and after testing compression etc we replaced the injectors (all of them, not just one) and the filter..t he car was running smooth again and no codes. After driving 600km (in one day) it broke again on the same cylinder, giving the same P1007 plus P0087 low fuel pressure.
Acadia18
Autocross Champion
- Location
- The Greater Boston Metropolitan Area
- Car(s)
- 2019 Golf R
Benefit of Neuspeeds are they keep all the OEM spec. No adapters or different lugs needed.
You get the tracking # for the spare wheel yet?