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MK7 "Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread"

JC_451

Autocross Champion
Location
NJ
Car(s)
2017 GTI Sport
How long would it typically take the ECU to adjust for an ~E20-25 blend coming from E10? I've noticed that if I add a couple gallons of E85, after ~5 mi, the car feels slightly down on power. STFT's are slightly higher. But then after a few more miles of driving or some harder acceleration, the STFT numbers come down, and there's noticeably more power. It would seem that the ECU is pulling back on the power a bit when the E-blend initially hits. I'm wondering what the normal time is for the ECU to adjust for fueling changes.
Might just be how long the fuel tank takes to blend. :unsure:
 

mrmattolsen

Autocross Champion
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Car(s)
2015 GTI DSG
Might just be how long the fuel tank takes to blend. :unsure:
Most accounts and tests show the mix/blend hits the engine within a few miles. It’s more like once the blend hits, there’s a reduction in power until a drive cycle or two has been completed. At least that’s how it appears.

And to be clear, this is not an E tune. So it shouldn’t be down on power without E. I’m adding some E just to help with maintaining timing advance when it’s really hot. So it’s strange that the higher E concentration initially seems to cause power to go down.

I wish I had a chance to log this effect more thoroughly. I was in my morning commute so couldn’t fully wind out 3rd gear.
 

krs

Autocross Champion
Location
Reno, NV
Car(s)
MKVIIS R
Most accounts and tests show the mix/blend hits the engine within a few miles. It’s more like once the blend hits, there’s a reduction in power until a drive cycle or two has been completed. At least that’s how it appears.

And to be clear, this is not an E tune. So it shouldn’t be down on power without E. I’m adding some E just to help with maintaining timing advance when it’s really hot. So it’s strange that the higher E concentration initially seems to cause power to go down.

I wish I had a chance to log this effect more thoroughly. I was in my morning commute so couldn’t fully wind out 3rd gear.

With me E sensor, while watching the blend mix, it doesn’t come into full E content for probably 5-7 miles of driving. I can see it start to rise and fall, rise and fall, rise until it settles.

Can’t help with your question, as when I mix for E30 I don’t hammer down until full E30 is showing.
 

Hlocke480

Ready to race!
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Car(s)
MK6 Golf & MK7 R
I purchased a mk7 golf R about a year ago thinking my car was stock due to there not being a mod in sight on the car, until i raced my buddies RS3 for shits and giggles and i only lost by a bumper and it had me looking into if my car was tuned and after emailing tuning companies my vin i found out it is tuned on APR stage 1 high torque file 93 octane.
my question is that i live in Arizona where its very hard to find 93 and i thought it was stock this whole time and been running it on 91, just wondering if that could cause catastrophic engine failure later down the road or is the ecu smart enough to realize it doesnt have 93 and "detunes" its self to not cause a problem?
 

oddspyke

Autocross Champion
Location
Delaware
Car(s)
2016 GTI, 2018 ZL1
I purchased a mk7 golf R about a year ago thinking my car was stock due to there not being a mod in sight on the car, until i raced my buddies RS3 for shits and giggles and i only lost by a bumper and it had me looking into if my car was tuned and after emailing tuning companies my vin i found out it is tuned on APR stage 1 high torque file 93 octane.
my question is that i live in Arizona where its very hard to find 93 and i thought it was stock this whole time and been running it on 91, just wondering if that could cause catastrophic engine failure later down the road or is the ecu smart enough to realize it doesnt have 93 and "detunes" its self to not cause a problem?
APR tunes have a lot of conservative knock control so if nothing has broken yet you're probably ok, but it's not a good idea to keep running it. Find your closest APR dealer and have them flash you down to the 91 map.
 

Hlocke480

Ready to race!
Location
Phoenix, AZ
Car(s)
MK6 Golf & MK7 R
APR tunes have a lot of conservative knock control so if nothing has broken yet you're probably ok, but it's not a good idea to keep running it. Find your closest APR dealer and have them flash you down to the 91 map.
okay that's what i was thinking as well i was told to run an octane booster for the time being until i can get it into a dealer, thank you
 

okMK

Autocross Champion
Location
Alabama
Car(s)
GTI
What Summer size tires should be ran on 18x8 wheels with stock ride height? I was thinking about picking up some Firehawks, but wondering if I need to change it up a bit from 225/40-18. Looking for best performance on turns and curves without sacrificing any/much straight line traction.
 

dtfd

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
MK7.5 GTI
Non PP on a GTI is 300x12, just looked it up. PP is 310x22. So a little off, but vented like your front is still PP, solid rear non PP.

I've got the 272x10 rears I believe, let me know if you'd want to flip your stock brakes. I'd need the mounting brackets though too though I believe.

Otherwise I'm looking at possibly the same.🤣
Non pp GTI have 312mm front 272mm rear.

PP have 340mm front 310mm rear rotors
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
Figured I'd ask one more time before I make a separate thread. Getting some conflicting info searching the forums, and most of the threads tend to be for spacers with OEM wheels. Looking for info on spacers with Hub rings and aftermarket wheels.

Checked with TireRack, looks like my current hub rings are 73/57 plastic click ins that were sent with my wheels. Would a 73/57.1 hub centric wheel spacer be a better choice from a vibration standpoint or would the flat hub centric spacer work like H&R DRA style? Mainly worried about high speed vibration and most posts I search recommend getting custom hub to wheel hub lipped spacers regardless.

Just looking for some advice on if I need custom spacers or a flat spacer with hub centric lip would work.

H&R style for reference:
https://www.urotuning.com/products/h-r-wheel-spacers-vw-5x112-20mm-dra-style-40555712?currency=USD&variant=8385736179767&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4PKTBhD8ARIsAHChzRJVxgeCEX7XjS6A9pm7p9vUEpy-E_anoZdR4l5EzYXQpd-4bDiKhk8aAqQlEALw_wcB
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
Just full of questions lately.

Anyone using USPs front stainless steel brake lines know if the caliper bolt can be replaced? Need a M10x1.0Banjo rather than the stock bolt and curious if I can reuse the lines or if I'll need to pick up a custom set and resell them with my front calipers. Emailed USP, but they're being a little slow in getting back to me.
 

dtfd

Autocross Champion
Location
Massachusetts
Car(s)
MK7.5 GTI
Figured I'd ask one more time before I make a separate thread. Getting some conflicting info searching the forums, and most of the threads tend to be for spacers with OEM wheels. Looking for info on spacers with Hub rings and aftermarket wheels.

Checked with TireRack, looks like my current hub rings are 73/57 plastic click ins that were sent with my wheels. Would a 73/57.1 hub centric wheel spacer be a better choice from a vibration standpoint or would the flat hub centric spacer work like H&R DRA style? Mainly worried about high speed vibration and most posts I search recommend getting custom hub to wheel hub lipped spacers regardless.

Just looking for some advice on if I need custom spacers or a flat spacer with hub centric lip would work.

H&R style for reference:
https://www.urotuning.com/products/h-r-wheel-spacers-vw-5x112-20mm-dra-style-40555712?currency=USD&variant=8385736179767&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=google&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&gclid=Cj0KCQjw4PKTBhD8ARIsAHChzRJVxgeCEX7XjS6A9pm7p9vUEpy-E_anoZdR4l5EzYXQpd-4bDiKhk8aAqQlEALw_wcB
I don't even know where you could get spacers that step up the hub ring size.

I've got a 15mm spacer similar to the one you linked on my front wheels. I've also got konig ampliforms which have a 66.6mm center bore so when I was installing it I just moved my ring from the hub to the spacer.

Shitty picture for reference but you can see the spacer with hub ring on it.

20220512_212057_resized.jpg
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
I don't even know where you could get spacers that step up the hub ring size.

I've got a 15mm spacer similar to the one you linked on my front wheels. I've also got konig ampliforms which have a 66.6mm center bore so when I was installing it I just moved my ring from the hub to the spacer.

Shitty picture for reference but you can see the spacer with hub ring on it.

View attachment 249459
Thanks for the info and picture. Think I'm going that route. Emailed 42 Draft designs and they came back saying I'd want a Hub centric spacer to use with a hub ring as their Hub and Wheel centric spacers have a lip that is incompatible with hub rings.

Going to hopefully test fit the new brake calipers this weekend at the latest to see if I need a spacer and how big. Wanted to avoid using longer hardware, but it looks like unless I want a 20mm spacer to be at ET25, I'll have to do that.
 
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