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MK7 "Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread"

sterkrazzy

Autocross Champion
Location
United States
Car(s)
Turbo. Blue.
Interesting,

I've never seen that before. Would the revs hang when you let off the accelerator or did you have your foot down and that's when it would hold in place?

For me it was like I shifted the car into neutral. I would go from 2k to redline like I was revving out in the parking lot to impress the ladies.
It'd be in the middle of a pull. RPMs would start climbing, then get to about 4k, then hold there for a couple seconds, and then it'd start climbing again.
 

Kdubya

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Florida
Car(s)
2017 GTI
This-
The clutch on my mk6 actually did the opposite. I always saw comments saying that the revs will spike, but I never experienced that. My revs would hold in place for a couple seconds and then continue to climb.

If the gear indicator disappears in the middle of a pull you know your clutch is slipping though.

This.. I’ve read this before! Thanks for this reminder - totally forgot actually
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
Thinking of upgrading to boxster 4 pot front calipers on the 312mm rotor. Think it's worth it to upgrade the rear to PP brakes with the vented 312mm as well? Stock is a solid non vented 272mm. Not sure how that might affect the front/rear brake bias or if it'd even result in a performance gain.

Going with centric posi-quiet ceramic pads on the boxster calipers for now, probably upgrade to red stuffs. Leaning toward slotted EBC rotors over my stock Zimmerman blanks.
 

Dameon

Go Kart Champion
Location
Los Angeles
M
Thinking of upgrading to boxster 4 pot front calipers on the 312mm rotor. Think it's worth it to upgrade the rear to PP brakes with the vented 312mm as well? Stock is a solid non vented 272mm. Not sure how that might affect the front/rear brake bias or if it'd even result in a performance gain.

Going with centric posi-quiet ceramic pads on the boxster calipers for now, probably upgrade to red stuffs. Leaning toward slotted EBC rotors over my stock Zimmerman blanks.
@Blade3562 did the prodigywerks caliper up front (which I read is close to the boxster caliper and uses a 312 rotor) and then upgraded to the PP rears on his wagon. He did a write up on how it handled at the track.
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
M

@Blade3562 did the prodigywerks caliper up front (which I read is close to the boxster caliper and uses a 312 rotor) and then upgraded to the PP rears on his wagon. He did a write up on how it handled at the track.
Yeah, ProdigyWerks was my second choice. Due to price increases though, its $735 shipped, they have a 10% off code of derek10now you can use to save like 58 bucks. So about 670 for the set.

Almost picked them up, but I was able to track down some 986/987 calipers used with rebuild kit and mounts for under 250 a side. Might still track them down later to give them a try, wish I would have found them when they were 400ish a set. 🤦‍♂️
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
Well damn, I've got a line on a set of new Centric 141.33620 and 141.33619 rear brake calipers with carriers. Picture shows the blue R32 version rather than the Black mk6 R version the PN is 142. is the centric blue prefix from what I can tell.

They want 180 shipped for the set. :unsure: Would just need pads and rotors, maybe brake lines..
 

StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
So I've been reading up on wheel spacers. I'm running aftermarket 17x8 et 45s with hub rings currently. I may need spacers for my next brake upgrade.

I believe I want a hub centric spacer kit like the H&R kit, which bolts to hub, and the wheel bolts to the spacer.. correct? Got some conflicting info in a a few threads.

Would i also need a ring of some sort for the wheel to spacer since it's a flat spacer to avoid vibration, or do the wheels just bolt to the spacer?

A lot of threads recommend measuring the wheel bore and getting a hub centric spacer with lip to the wheel bore. Just curious if that is the only way to avoid vibration at higher speed or if the flat face hub centric spacer would do the trick.

GSW on Iron 50mm knuckles at stock height if that matters, but I read that's only a concern if lowered or added camber.
 
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mrmatto

Autocross Champion
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Car(s)
2024 GTI DSG
How long would it typically take the ECU to adjust for an ~E20-25 blend coming from E10? I've noticed that if I add a couple gallons of E85, after ~5 mi, the car feels slightly down on power. STFT's are slightly higher. But then after a few more miles of driving or some harder acceleration, the STFT numbers come down, and there's noticeably more power. It would seem that the ECU is pulling back on the power a bit when the E-blend initially hits. I'm wondering what the normal time is for the ECU to adjust for fueling changes.
 
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StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
How long would it typically take the ECU to adjust for an ~E20-25 blend coming from E10? I've noticed that if I add a couple gallons of E85, after ~5 mi, the car feels slightly down on power. STFT's are slightly higher. But then after a few more miles of driving or some harder acceleration, the STFT numbers come down, and there's noticeably more power. It would seem that the ECU is pulling back on the power a bit when the E-blend initially hits. I'm wondering what the normal time is for the ECU to adjust for fueling changes.
Do you have an e guage/flex tune? Otherwise I don't think our ECUs can detect ethanol in order to make changes.

I've logged literally after pulling out of the gas station and found that e hits pretty quick once you fill the tank.

Are you adding gas then E, or E then Gas? I do the latter to help mix the tank.
 

mrmatto

Autocross Champion
Location
Jacksonville, FL
Car(s)
2024 GTI DSG
Do you have an e guage/flex tune? Otherwise I don't think our ECUs can detect ethanol in order to make changes.

I've logged literally after pulling out of the gas station and found that e hits pretty quick once you fill the tank.

Are you adding gas then E, or E then Gas? I do the latter to help mix the tank.
No gauge, sensor, or tune specific to E. I just sometimes play with E20 when it's really hot to help maintain timing advance, especially when I have an autocross event coming up. I add E first.

But obviously our ECU does adjust to the fuel "density" because I can watch the fuel trims adjust. I don't really know how else to explain it, but the car was definitely down on power at first. There was no other reason for it -- ambient temps were in the 70s, IATs were reasonable, and I hadn't driven long enough or sat long enough for any amount of heat soak. STFT was of course elevated a bit, as expected. But it seems the STFT has now "settled" after a couple drive cycles (I assume LTFT adjusted) and the power feels much stronger.

My assumption is the initial hit of the E mix was just enough of a tweak that the ECU was pulling power a bit initially. I have an APR tune and they're pretty aggressive with safety protection limits, so I'm wondering if the STFT being off a bit or the A/F ratio going just slightly lean might have told the tune to pull it back for bit. Honestly not sure.
 

sirnerdington

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Hanford, CA
Car(s)
2018 GTI S w/DSG
So I've seen a little conflicting information and decided to just look as stupid as I feel and ask:

I've heard/read that the facelift/mk7.5 basically the PP Mk7 (as far as hardware and power). Is this accurate? I ask because I'm considering upgrading my braking system to the PP version ahead of the DTR and want to make sure that I wouldn't be blowing money for a refit that isn't actually a refit.
 

FooDogg

Go Kart Champion
Location
Right on the Left Coast
Car(s)
2017 Alltrack S 6MT
Posted also in Trusted Shops thread but looking for advice here:
1. need good indy german shop in houston and or pensacola fl for my 2017 Alltrack S 6mt APR1 87 tune,
running it hard towing xcountry in the current SE heat wave, towing a 1500# trailer...💪🤣

2. thoughts?
EPC light on, pulled off, car ran idle and died.
Hood up and sat a few min, fluids checked good.

Momentary #4 injector on Obd11...
 

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StorableComa

Autocross Champion
Location
SoCal, USA
Car(s)
17 GSW S FWD
So I've seen a little conflicting information and decided to just look as stupid as I feel and ask:

I've heard/read that the facelift/mk7.5 basically the PP Mk7 (as far as hardware and power). Is this accurate? I ask because I'm considering upgrading my braking system to the PP version ahead of the DTR and want to make sure that I wouldn't be blowing money for a refit that isn't actually a refit.
If your rear rotors are vented, you have PP 312s. If you have solid they're the non pp 288s I believe.
 
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Desslok

Autocross Champion
Location
PA
Car(s)
2019 Rabbit
Posted also in Trusted Shops thread but looking for advice here:
1. need good indy german shop in houston and or pensacola fl for my 2017 Alltrack S 6mt APR1 87 tune,
running it hard towing xcountry in the current SE heat wave, towing a 1500# trailer...💪🤣

2. thoughts?
EPC light on, pulled off, car ran idle and died.
Hood up and sat a few min, fluids checked good.

Momentary #4 injector on Obd11...
One thing is for sure: you should not be running 87 octane while towing. And in hot weather? <Dark Helmet voice> "What's with you, man?!"
 
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