CarPlay can be hit or miss for me sometimes. I had this weird issue where it kept using the phone/Siri speakers/volume setting for music and it was really aggravating. Turned out to be a bad cable. I ran into issues with CarPlay on the head unit in my old car as well, so I just kind of roll with them now. It works great for me 95% of the time. I will say a lot of the time, issues with CarPlay can be traced to the cable being used. I have found it best to just use an official Apple lighting cable.
Happens with multiple cables, including the Apple OEM one, so for this particular issue I don't believe it's related. But your point largely is correct for many issues, I'm sure.Yes, almost all CarPlay/Android Auto issues can be traced back to bad cables. As a general rule, you'll want to use a shorter cable rather than longer and use either an Apple cable or a top brand like Anker.
Happens with multiple cables, including the Apple OEM one, so for this particular issue I don't believe it's related. But your point largely is correct for many issues, I'm sure.
You’re GTI is hauntedFull of stupid questions this week: can anyone explain how leaves and shit can somehow get into the hatch while the hatch is closed? Am I losing my mind and they just blew in when I opened it?
what is the best tuner, APR, Cobb, or Unitronic, My uncle stated that APR killed his buds car and Unitronic and APR make the same wh, but what about cobb, Becuase IK Cobb u can flash your self and it has tunes for burble, flatfoot shifting, increases the top speed, etc
I've done a bunch of research but can't seem to find a definitive answer. Does the 500 mile recommended break-in period for clutches have to be all stop-and-go city miles? I guess that would make sense since the clutch is actually being used a lot.
Asking because my twenty mile commute to work includes fifteen miles of sixth gear cruising on the interstate. So do those miles "not count" because the clutch isn't being used? Does that mean the 200 mile point I'm at right now is technically only 50 lol?
literally just vary your speed on the highway 50-75 4-5-6 when people aren’t behind you just to use the clutch some more.
In defense of Cobb, their OTS tunes that come with the AP are boost heavy, laggy, and down on power, but extremely safe and knock free. People blowing up their engines are the morons loading the stage 2 or 3 tunes on stock hardware because MOAR BOOOOOST. MAPerformance makes terrible knock heavy tunes that will mess your engine up. I wouldn't lump them together. You can run the appropriate Cobb ots while you finish your build and wait for a pro tune just fine; I and many others have, just watch your knock sensors and use the right map.APR is safe but pushes more power than Uni. Uni is underwhelming. Cobb makes the AP which tuners like MAPerformance, EQT, Sneekytuned, and Stratified use to provide their own tunes. The “free” Cobb tunes that come with the AP that were actually developed by Cobb are the worst on the market, neck and neck with MAPerformance. Lots of people who are stage 1 stock hardware lose their engines to those crappy tunes. But on the other hand EQT Stratified and Sneekytuned have nearly exclusively positive reviews.
there’s also United Motorsport, they’re a good one.