Dog Dad Wagon
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Go Birds
- Car(s)
- 16 Touareg TDI
the whole point of FMIC is ease of install. Removing the stock one - why not just get a factory placement IC which flows better?
7
MK7 "Random / "Stupid" Questions Thread"
- Thread starter phant0m
- Start date
the whole point of FMIC is ease of install. Removing the stock one - why not just get a factory placement IC which flows better?
StorableComa
Autocross Champion
- Location
- SoCal, USA
- Car(s)
- 17 GSW S FWD
Not removing it, just curious if anyone blocks it off. Looking at the ARM FMIC, and while it has everything to hook it up and mount it, I was just curious if people leave the dead IC open to the elements.
Better flow doesn’t = better performance. It’s probably easy to inflate that with slightly thicker runners too.
sterkrazzy
Autocross Champion
- Location
- United States
- Car(s)
- Turbo. Blue.
When I put a neuspeed fmic on my mk6 it came with rubber caps for the stock IC
Have a family of rats move in. Charge them rent.
That’s dope
StorableComa
Autocross Champion
- Location
- SoCal, USA
- Car(s)
- 17 GSW S FWD
Kinda my concern, that or water build up. I get having it open might help it not retain heat, maybe? Seeing as it's still stuck between the AC and the radiator. Though personally I'd feel better with something like rubber caps as @sterkrazzy mentioned.
Maybe try the pringles lid? See how that holds?
StorableComa
Autocross Champion
- Location
- SoCal, USA
- Car(s)
- 17 GSW S FWD
StorableComa
Autocross Champion
- Location
- SoCal, USA
- Car(s)
- 17 GSW S FWD
Here's another brain twister before I pull the trigger on the ARM FMIC and catted DP. Would a 3.5" DP make that big a difference over a 3" on an 1.8T IS20 build? I know a lot of guys running hybrid or 38s recently started talking about the Trackslag 4" MQB DP and how things spool faster.
Price wise the ARM is 20 bucks cheaper than the CTS catted 3.5" DP.
Price wise the ARM is 20 bucks cheaper than the CTS catted 3.5" DP.
I don’t think it’ll matter much. Is20 won’t really max either out. Though the 3.5 might deal with that initial bend better, the one out of the turbo. Though I’m just guessing.
StorableComa
Autocross Champion
- Location
- SoCal, USA
- Car(s)
- 17 GSW S FWD
Fair. Looking at bit closer, it looks like the o2 bung on the CTS is right after the bend and pre cat, ARM has the CAT right after the bend and the the bung past it just before the mesh coupler. Think I might have better luck with the o2 post cat, and the cat closer for heat up.
On a fa20 wrx. When swapping to a catted downpipe. There are two options basically. Some have the cat close to the turbo. Some have them a bit further away
in this example it’s best to have it closer to the turbo since it’ll be warmer and the cat can cat better. So to speak.
however, quality of the cat has to be considered too. A gesi would probably be fine in any position and at any distance from the turbo.
if it’s got a cheap cat it might be wise to get it closer to the turbo. It could even help with fuel smell a few minutes after cold start too
StorableComa
Autocross Champion
- Location
- SoCal, USA
- Car(s)
- 17 GSW S FWD
Don't believe their GESI. 042 draft has a GESI, but is about the same price as the IE DP. Though is nice as it isn't branded up top with their logo, like the ARM. ARM is branded on the pipe near to the mounting prongs which is nice for CA and potentially smog.
Arm doesn't give much info their cat:
-200 Cell High-Flow Catalyst: Replaces the resonator on the standard catless downpipe and reduces exhaust fumes and chance of getting a check engine light (CEL). Though it's butted up pretty close to the turbo:
Think I'll stick with the ARM unless someone has a knowledge bomb or "It blew up my engine" story to tell.
Gesi’s aren’t cheap. That’s for sure.