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MK7 Golf R Track Use: What's needed to be "track ready"?

italynstylion

Ready to race!
Location
Dallas, TX
Just as the title states, I'm a new Golf R owner looking to run some sessions on the track but I want to make sure I have everything I need to ensure it remains reliable. Also, track use (to me) is circuit tracks, not drag racing.

Currently I'm at APR Stage 2 (including the intercooler) so I should have the ability to keep IATs down a bit.

What else is recommended for Golf Rs that will be used on the track? I'm seeing people say there's a tendancy for oil to pool in the cylinder head and a new catch can/oil return system is needed to keep it from blowing the oil into the intake tract. Looks like a $700 kit. Necessary or no? Also, standard oil and brake fluid ok? Additionally, I know the aftermarket dogbone inserts are intended to keep the engine from pivoting under hard acceleration and braking. How important is that upgrade before track use?
 

phobos512

Ready to race!
Probably oil change before / after (depending on how hard the track day is), switch to some decent brake fluid (Motul RBF600 seems well liked), could change to steel braided brake lines. I haven't seen anything conclusive on catch cans (I actually thought I'd seen multiple times they're useless on our engine).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

AR11

Ready to race!
Location
CA
Give it a go as is -- you don't really need to go crazy with the track prep. Brake fluid helps but the stock system isn't terrible when paired with the stock tires which don't offer all that much in the way of grip anyway.
 
Location
St. Olaf
"Give it a go as is" likely means destroying brake pads and perhaps front tires.
The stock brakes aren't capable of serious track driving with a st2 Golf R, while
the lack of front camber will at least highly strain the tires' outer edge.
Front brake pads and ventilation, fluid and ESC/brake assist is certainly where
to start first imho. Next is camber and tires. There's tons of helpful information
in these sections:

Tracking / Autocrossing / Driving Techniques

Wheels / Tires / Suspension / Brakes / Chassis

like that one:

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27359
 

AR11

Ready to race!
Location
CA
"Give it a go as is" likely means destroying brake pads and perhaps front tires.
The stock brakes aren't capable of serious track driving with a st2 Golf R, while
the lack of front camber will at least highly strain the tires' outer edge.
Front brake pads and ventilation, fluid and ESC/brake assist is certainly where
to start first imho. Next is camber and tires. There's tons of helpful information
in these sections:

Tracking / Autocrossing / Driving Techniques

Wheels / Tires / Suspension / Brakes / Chassis

like that one:

http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27359

I've done 8 days on the stock pads (4 on past GTI-PP, 4 on current R) and the majority of GTI-PP/R that I see at track days have stock pads in theirs as well. I plan to eventually upgrade mine but figured I'd use up the original pads first and so far they have worked fine. Not ideal but OK.

We can all rattle off a laundry list of nice-to-have upgrades but OP is asking what he needs "to ensure it remains reliable". I'll happily agree that brake pads/fluid is a smart place to start if you're dead set on buying stuff but OP shouldn't get the impression that he needs to start upgrading all aspects of the car in order to be "track ready".
 

italynstylion

Ready to race!
Location
Dallas, TX
I recall seeing some people dial in -1.3 for camber in another thread. Is that what most do and is there a DIY?

I like the idea of the air ducts from another car. I guess I didn't realize the R doesn't have them stock. I suppose that's one of the things my RX7 had that I took for granted. Any more info on that BreakingBadly?
 

edge04

Ready to race!
Location
midwest
why hasn't anyone asked "what level of experience do you have?"

I'll assume you are new to road racing and if that's the case I would suggest you also try the car as is. First time drivers rarely out drive a stock car.

So what is your level of experience. Try to be as harsh on yourself as possible so that people can provide the right help.
 

jmason

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Frederick, MD
My take?
1. Bleed your brakes and replace with hi temp fluid. Some organizations require that the brakes be bleed within 30-180 days of the event (varies by sponsoring organization).
2. Replace street pads with something that will handle the higher temp generated from lapping a race track. With my stock pads, I could smell them when returning to the pits after a session. There are many brands, and even more opinions on which is the "best."
3. Monitor your tire pressures. A good digital tire gauge would be a nice addition to your toolbox for this purpose.
4. Change your oil. Make sure the level is at the top. Don't want to flirt with oil starvation.
5. If you don't have one, buy a torque wrench for tightening the lug nuts before each session.
6. If you've new to a track, search for videos and track maps so that you can familiarize yourself with the layout and not waste time just poking around learning where the line is.
I could go on. Really, if you search, you'll find a wealth of info on the subject. Your car is no different from anyone else's in terms of what is needed to bring out a reliable car.
 

2015WhiteGTI

Go Kart Champion
why hasn't anyone asked "what level of experience do you have?"

I'll assume you are new to road racing and if that's the case I would suggest you also try the car as is. First time drivers rarely out drive a stock car.

So what is your level of experience. Try to be as harsh on yourself as possible so that people can provide the right help.

This was going to be my first question.

If you're brand new to tracking - I usually suggest getting rid of the tune and have a go with a stock engine. The LAST thing you want to add to a car before going onto the track is power.

For tracking in order of importance:
1. Brakes - you can have 5000HP and if you can't stop, you crash. Stock brake pads may be okay as some have pointed out. Going to a more endurance type of track pad will help with brake fade and last longer without chewing up your rotors. Fluid I would change no matter what. It's always good to have a high-temp fluid to avoid boiling over or a soft, spongy brake pedal.
2. Seat time
3. Seat time
4. Seat time
5. Seat time
6. Handling - This would include making changes to springs, shocks, bushings, alignment, tires etc.
7. Seat time
8. Seat time
9. Seat time
10. Maybe adding HP. Adding HP includes adding heat. Heat is the enemy for tracking and can cause more problems. Yes, and intercooler will help with the intake temp, but what about oil temps (do you need to run an oil cooler and diff cooler?).

I drove my street car on the track for eight years. I did everything on the list above except for adding HP (I had a tune on a NA BMW330i, that increased the power from 255 to a whopping 270 maybe). Now I race in SCCA and AER endurance races.
As you can see, I'm a big fan of seat time. It's the biggest difference that can be made out on the track. I was quicker than a lot of my friends that had either M3's or highly modified 335's.

TBH: I wouldn't mess with brakes at all. If you're going to track your car, it's the last thing you want to worry about. Going for a brake pedal that isn't firm or having a longer and longer travel will ruin your weekend.
I'm assuming you're not going to remove the APR Stage 2 tune, so you're actually playing with more HP than the car I race.

Be careful. Be smooth. Don't scare your instructor.
 

Swoope

Ready to race!
Location
orlando
This was going to be my first question.

If you're brand new to tracking - I usually suggest getting rid of the tune and have a go with a stock engine. The LAST thing you want to add to a car before going onto the track is power.

For tracking in order of importance:
1. Brakes - you can have 5000HP and if you can't stop, you crash. Stock brake pads may be okay as some have pointed out. Going to a more endurance type of track pad will help with brake fade and last longer without chewing up your rotors. Fluid I would change no matter what. It's always good to have a high-temp fluid to avoid boiling over or a soft, spongy brake pedal.
2. Seat time
3. Seat time
4. Seat time
5. Seat time
6. Handling - This would include making changes to springs, shocks, bushings, alignment, tires etc.
7. Seat time
8. Seat time
9. Seat time
10. Maybe adding HP. Adding HP includes adding heat. Heat is the enemy for tracking and can cause more problems. Yes, and intercooler will help with the intake temp, but what about oil temps (do you need to run an oil cooler and diff cooler?).

I drove my street car on the track for eight years. I did everything on the list above except for adding HP (I had a tune on a NA BMW330i, that increased the power from 255 to a whopping 270 maybe). Now I race in SCCA and AER endurance races.
As you can see, I'm a big fan of seat time. It's the biggest difference that can be made out on the track. I was quicker than a lot of my friends that had either M3's or highly modified 335's.

TBH: I wouldn't mess with brakes at all. If you're going to track your car, it's the last thing you want to worry about. Going for a brake pedal that isn't firm or having a longer and longer travel will ruin your weekend.
I'm assuming you're not going to remove the APR Stage 2 tune, so you're actually playing with more HP than the car I race.

Be careful. Be smooth. Don't scare your instructor.

brilliant!

my advice for the first couple of track events, listen to your instructor.

leave your ego at home..

drink lots of h20.

do not mod your car till you know enough to realize what you need to change..

on the R it will likely be tires, but that will take lots of laps..

btw, if you track a lot camber is an issue with this platform on track..

beers
 
Location
St. Olaf
I couldn't agree more.

AR, I get what you say and I agree on your intention. ;)

OP, this is what I'd suggest:

http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186068

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MK_II-TTRS-2.5T/Braking/Cooling/Ducts/

While rear camber is quite easy to adjust in a sufficient range,
unfortunately front camber isn't. Aftermarket parts such as
either ball joints, control arms or camber plates are required
for increasing front camber. Stock front camber is -0°45' and
increases to little over -1° after lowering, while -1°30' (-1.5°)
helps a lot on decreasing understeer and better tire life. Still
ok on daily driving with -1°30' on all four corners. I would do
this later though. Brakes and tires first. And seat time of course!
 

Swoope

Ready to race!
Location
orlando
I couldn't agree more.

AR, I get what you say and I agree on your intention. ;)

OP, this is what I'd suggest:

http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186068

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MK_II-TTRS-2.5T/Braking/Cooling/Ducts/

While rear camber is quite easy to adjust in a sufficient range,
unfortunately front camber isn't. Aftermarket parts such as
either ball joints, control arms or camber plates are required
for increasing front camber. Stock front camber is -0°45' and
increases to little over -1° after lowering, while -1°30' (-1.5°)
helps a lot on decreasing understeer and better tire life. Still
ok on daily driving with -1°30' on all four corners. I would do
this later though. Brakes and tires first. And seat time of course!

you killed the tech details.. love that. will have questions for you some day.

but really on track the stock pads are really good. this is a comment from a gti PP. i think they are the same pad.

they are much better than the ebc yellowcrap.. just saying.. long story abut the sebring short course..

but daytona was a big cup of zesy mini today!


beers
 

italynstylion

Ready to race!
Location
Dallas, TX
I've been to the track a few times. I'm not a pro by any means but each time I go I still get an instructor. The track near me (near being a relative term) is Eagles Canyon Raceway. I was able to do reasonably well with my 2800lbs RX7 that had 313whp even whilst having manual gear changes to worry about. I'm expecting the Golf R to be quite a bit more "tame".

And I think many of you misunderstood my question. I'm not asking what I need to do to go FAST...I just am curious if there are any weaknesses in the vehicle's design that present themselves as an issue when you go push the car hard at the track. My thought is to take care of those things first to ensure longevity of the vehicle. Sounds like brake fluid is the only thing I'll do before I go the first time. Then I'll assess how we do with the first outing.

I'm happy to drive the car as is for the time being. I'm not likely to drive it to it's limits considering I'm not an expert driver and it's a new vehicle to me. I'll put in as much seat time as the vehicle will let me. Hopefully I can find a good weekend when it's cool out so it's a bit easier on the car!
 

GIACUser

Master Wallet Mechanic
Location
USA
Car(s)
MK 6 GolfR
I've been to the track a few times. I'm not a pro by any means but each time I go I still get an instructor. The track near me (near being a relative term) is Eagles Canyon Raceway. I was able to do reasonably well with my 2800lbs RX7 that had 313whp even whilst having manual gear changes to worry about. I'm expecting the Golf R to be quite a bit more "tame".

And I think many of you misunderstood my question. I'm not asking what I need to do to go FAST...I just am curious if there are any weaknesses in the vehicle's design that present themselves as an issue when you go push the car hard at the track. My thought is to take care of those things first to ensure longevity of the vehicle. Sounds like brake fluid is the only thing I'll do before I go the first time. Then I'll assess how we do with the first outing.

I'm happy to drive the car as is for the time being. I'm not likely to drive it to it's limits considering I'm not an expert driver and it's a new vehicle to me. I'll put in as much seat time as the vehicle will let me. Hopefully I can find a good weekend when it's cool out so it's a bit easier on the car!

Car should be fine for track stock with one exception. Since you have track time in a quick car you will over drive the brakes and see them fade on stock pads which might be ok for new drivers.

Based on my own experience you will be MUCH happier if you at least upgrade to something like Hawk HP+ and some high temp brake fluid.

I drive a MKV GTI K04 with about same power level as a 2+ R with Golf R brakes, these cars are a bit heavy and you will enjoy your outing MUCH more with better pads. Pads are easy to change. As you get faster in the car you will probably want to move up to an even more aggressive pad.
 

edge04

Ready to race!
Location
midwest
curious about the ecs cooling ducts. doesn't the R comw with cooling ducts? anyone make something that directs air right to the rotors with some kind of hose or would that be total custom?

I couldn't agree more.

AR, I get what you say and I agree on your intention. ;)

OP, this is what I'd suggest:

http://www.golfmkv.com/forums/showthread.php?t=186068

https://www.ecstuning.com/Audi-TT_MK_II-TTRS-2.5T/Braking/Cooling/Ducts/

While rear camber is quite easy to adjust in a sufficient range,
unfortunately front camber isn't. Aftermarket parts such as
either ball joints, control arms or camber plates are required
for increasing front camber. Stock front camber is -0°45' and
increases to little over -1° after lowering, while -1°30' (-1.5°)
helps a lot on decreasing understeer and better tire life. Still
ok on daily driving with -1°30' on all four corners. I would do
this later though. Brakes and tires first. And seat time of course!
 
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