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MK7 golf door not locking

vizie

New member
Location
Norway
Car(s)
VW e-Golf 2016
Hello.
I've been experiencing that my drivers-door doesnt lock.

I have these codes from VCDS:
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unnamed (2).jpg
unnamed (1).jpg



Anyone with any idea what it could be?


Thanks!!
 

DV52

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Australia
@vizie : Hi.

So, interesting problem!

This is how the central locking system on the driver-side door is wired:

Notes:
  • J386 is the driver-door module
  • I'm not sure whether this car has SAFEOCK - but I suspect that it does. If SAFELOCK is NOT installed, ignore the F243 & V161

Notice the colored squares. I've added these to the wiring diagram to illustrate that the door module (J386) operates the central locking system as 2 x separate parts. In control-systems speak these parts are known as Input (yellow-ish square) and output (blue-ish square). If the input component (E308) gives J386 the proper signal, which is the correct status for the LOCK/UNLOCK switch-pair shown - the output equipment (VX21) will provide the correct response.

My reason for describing the dynamic above is to explain the background for my hunch that the 3 x errors in your pictures have a cause-and-effect relationship - meaning that I suspect that the 65593 error has initiated the 65578 & 65579 errors (I think)

If I'm correct (and I might not be), I suggest that you start your instigation at the input end - being E308. In particular, I suggest that you grab a multi-meter and confirm the operation of the door LOCK/UNLOCK switch-pair on pin #3.

Notice that in my diagram, the left-side switch internal to E308 has a small box in-circuit - this is a resistor. So, with E308 removed and with the multi-meter set to measure resistance and with the test leads connected to earth and pin #3 - the test-measurements should be as follows:

LOCK/UNLOCK button
  • Button not pressed - open circuit
  • position ONE - zero ohms (dead-short)
  • position TWO - resistance reading
I'm not sure how the lock/unlock button positions line-up with positions ONE/TWO above and I don't know the expected value of the "resistance reading" - but these don't matter. What you are doing with the test is confirming that the physical switch-pair operates correctly. If you confirm that E308 is working OK - check the integrity of the wire and the connectors between pin #13 on the 32 x pin connector on J386 and pin #3 on E308.

Don
 
Last edited:

vizie

New member
Location
Norway
Car(s)
VW e-Golf 2016
@vizie : Hi.

So, interesting problem!

This is how the central locking system on the driver-side door is wired:

Notes:
  • J386 is the driver-door module
  • I'm not sure whether this car has SAFEOCK - but I suspect that it does. If SAFELOCK is NOT installed, ignore the F243 & V161

Notice the colored squares. I've added these to the wiring diagram to illustrate that the door module (J386) operates the central locking system as 2 x separate parts. In control-systems speak these parts are known as Input (yellow-ish square) and output (blue-ish square). If the input component (E308) gives J386 the proper signal, which is the correct status for the LOCK/UNLOCK switch-pair shown - the output equipment (VX21) will provide the correct response.

My reason for describing the dynamic above is to explain the background for my hunch that the 3 x errors in your pictures have a cause-and-effect relationship - meaning that I suspect that the 65593 error has initiated the 65578 & 65579 errors (I think)

If I'm correct (and I might not be), I suggest that you start your instigation at the input end - being E308. In particular, I suggest that you grab a multi-meter and confirm the operation of the door LOCK/UNLOCK switch-pair on pin #3.

Notice that in my diagram, the left-side switch internal to E308 has a small box in-circuit - this is a resistor. So, with E308 removed and with the multi-meter set to measure resistance and with the test leads connected to earth and pin #3 - the test-measurements should be as follows:

LOCK/UNLOCK button
  • Button not pressed - open circuit
  • position ONE - zero ohms (dead-short)
  • position TWO - resistance reading
I'm not sure how the lock/unlock button positions line-up with positions ONE/TWO above and I don't know the expected value of the "resistance reading" - but these don't matter. What you are doing with the test is confirming that the physical switch-pair operates correctly. If you confirm that E308 is working OK - check the integrity of the wire and the connectors between pin #13 on the 32 x pin connector on J386 and pin #3 on E308.

Don

Thank you for the answer!
Before I could see this answer I tried to swap the locking mechanism. This fixed the issue of the car not locking the driver-door but now my Keyless Unlock doesnt work on that door :/
 

DV52

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Australia
OK, I assume that you did NOT have to tamper with the driver-side KESSY aerial as part of the lock re-fit.

The contact sensor for the KESSY module is embedded in the exterior door handle - the driver-side sensor is called G415 in the wiring diagram. I suspect that maybe something was displaced/moved on G415 when you replaced "the locking mechanism". Check that the sensor plug is correctly seated and that the ends of bowden cable are properly terminated.

Don
 
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