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Lowline Reverse Camera Retrofit

mr-fix

Go Kart Champion
Location
Poland
Car(s)
MK7 2.0TDI Variant
F18 is T30 (constant 12V). If you connect the camera (and the mechanism) to T15 (ignition hot), your trunk release will not work without the ignition on.
 
Last edited:

DV52

Drag Race Newbie
Location
Australia
Again, I can only reply for RoW based Golfs.

As factory built and as shown on my wiring diagram on page 1 of this thread - F18 is connected to the Reversing camera (R189) and to the Rear lid handle release button (E234). Because E234 needs to operate when the ignition is OFF, the voltage supply must be T30! This is confirmed on the column called "Terminal" in my picture ("Terminal" is the "T" in T30).

Your last response suggests that you might have simply spliced the camera +12V supply into the pin#18 wire on the Quadlock connector without installing a separate fuse.

I'm not sure how familiar you are with electrical protection theory and I apologize if you already know this stuff - but it ain't good practice if you didn't use a separate fuse.

The problem is that the factory wire that's terminated on pin#18 (Quadlock) is protected by a 20 Amp fuse on the F12 slot. As shown on my wiring diagram, the factory fuse for the camera (on F18 slot) is 7.5 Amp.

If you haven't installed a separate fuse on your project, it means that 2.7 times (i.e. 20 divided by 7.5) more Amps will be allowed to flow into the camera module when a fault occurs. Because of electricity law, this means that over 7 times more power (power=Amp squared) will be allowed to be injected into the fault before the fuse blows! This ain't good protection design!!!

So, if you leave the +12V camera wire connected to pin#18 - install a separate 7.5 amp in-line fuse into the camera wire, please. And as I have said in a previous response - physically place the new fuse somewhere accessible!

With this arrangement, the battery supply for the camera +12V wire will contain 2 x fuses which are effectively connected in series; the 20 Amp fuse from F12 slot and the "downstream", new 7.5 Amp fuse. Good fuse protection practice (it's called "fuse grading") allows series connected fuses if the second fuse is no larger than half the rating of the first fuse. So, a 20 Amp/7.5 Amp series connection of fuses is OK

Hope this makes sense!!

Don
 
Last edited:

Parabola

Go Kart Champion
Location
Black hole sun
Car(s)
15 GTI, 22 Tiguan
Again, I can only reply for RoW based Golfs.

As factory built and as shown on my wiring diagram on page 1 of this thread - F18 is connected to the Reversing camera (R189) and to the Rear lid handle release button (E234). Because E234 needs to operate when the ignition is OFF, the voltage supply must be T30! This is confirmed on the column called "Terminal" in my picture ("Terminal" is the "T" in T30).

Your last response suggests that you might have simply spliced the camera +12V supply into the pin#18 wire on the Quadlock connector without installing a separate fuse.

I'm not sure how familiar you are with electrical protection theory and I apologize if you already know this stuff - but it ain't good practice if you didn't use a separate fuse.

The problem is that the factory wire that's terminated on pin#18 (Quadlock) is protected by a 20 Amp fuse on the F12 slot. As shown on my wiring diagram, the factory fuse for the camera (on F18 slot) is 7.5 Amp.

If you haven't installed a separate fuse on your project, it means that 2.7 times (i.e. 20 divided by 7.5) more Amps will be allowed to flow into the camera module when a fault occurs. Because of electricity law, this means that over 7 times more power (power=Amp squared) will be allowed to be injected into the fault before the fuse blows! This ain't good protection design!!!

So, if you leave the +12V camera wire connected to pin#18 - install a separate 7.5 amp in-line fuse into the camera wire, please. And as I have said in a previous response - physically place the new fuse somewhere accessible!

With this arrangement, the battery supply for the camera +12V wire will contain 2 x fuses which are effectively connected in series; the 20 Amp fuse from F12 slot and the "downstream", new 7.5 Amp fuse. Good fuse protection practice (it's called "fuse grading") allows series connected fuses if the second fuse is no larger than half the rating of the first fuse. So, a 20 Amp/7.5 Amp series connection of fuses is OK

Hope this makes sense!!

Don

Yes, it makes perfect sense and my non-fused Quadlock connection is only temporary as I didn’t have the proper fuse on hand, my plan is to route the wire to F18 fuse slot. I agree 20A is almost 3x more than what camera wiring can take in case of the fault.
 

Parabola

Go Kart Champion
Location
Black hole sun
Car(s)
15 GTI, 22 Tiguan
Finally I was able to find a few uninterrupted hrs and feed the wire to the fuse panel and added 7.5A fuse into F18 slot. Whoever designed that pink locking tab in the fuse panel should never design anything again…major pain in the arse to move out of place.

BC523D01-3F00-4313-A410-66E8E8E49D16.jpeg
 
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