That shouldn't see anywhere near the heat a flange would see during welding. Unless there was something severely wrong with the car and it was constantly throwing insane EGT's out... but then the exhaust wheel and everything else would also show heat. Nothing else looked out of the ordinary.I’ve seen thicker exhaust flanges warp from being welded, that’s why I ask.
Fair enough. Its hard to determine tone from text, so I just wanted to clarify that bit. As always, I'm all about sharing all data with the community so I think we're on the same page.Ed as I said before, if I install the new turbo and my issues go away, I will let people know that my issues went away and that I can only presume that there was something wrong with the turbo. That I spent well over $2,000.00 trying to chase down issues and they all came back with a clean check. Please don't think that I mean any ill will. Not the case at all! Anyone who modifies their cars has to except that shit can (most of the time will, lol) go wrong, because "racecar". My intention is to merely let people know the outcome of my situation to try and keep everyone up to date with possible issues.
Did a new turbo resolve your issue? I am getting Similar issues part throttle around 3rd gear and epc light. I got a Shuenk is38+ turbo with pre calibrated actuator. I swapped the DV from my is20 and cleaned the MAP sensor and throttle pipe sensor. Tried new plugs and coils. It passes first adaptation but failed the position test of end stops, I only had ignition on but don’t think it matters. Said it aborted for safety reasons. Also got vcds fault code for overboost condition.Blueballs isn't responding because there is no cause to respond. As I said, I'm also having the exact same issues. I'm still waiting for my replacement. Luckily, I do have pictures of the original turbo when I received it and after I put it on. I will also take pictures after I take it off, take pictures of both turbos side by side and pictures of the turbo right before I ship it. Blueballs, didn't/doesn't have pics. I can almost guarantee everyone that I didn't/haven't over tightened anything. Yet, I have the exact same issues as Blueballs. I'm not saying that Blueballs did or didn't over tighten something. He and Ed are still discussing the particulars. What I am saying is that I am almost positive I haven't. So, like I said, I will wait for the new turbo and install. If my issues go away, I will know the course of action I need to take. If they don't, I will immediately let every one know that I'm still having the same issues and it's not the turbo. I get that Blueballs might have rubbed some people the wrong way. I can most certainly say that when discussing our issues that he was very polite and considerate. You guys have only seen the written content that came from frustration. Again, if you guys were going through the same thing, your tone might be different. Ed has helped me and at times I was still frustrated. When you've tried everything yout can think of except changing the turbo out and your still being told it isn't the turbo, well, heads can bump. I do think my age and prior tunning experiences have helped me keep my cool, but to be honest, when I was younger I acted the same way. Like I said, Blueballs has changed out his turbo and his car is working. He's switched out his actuator with one he tried on the EQT and it worked. The bent piece, yes would cause an issue, however, I'm almost certain mine is not bent,yet I am still getting the exact EPCs Blueballs was getting. I could however be wrong. It could be slightly bent, I won't know until I can compare it to the new turbo. If it's bent, then I will except that after 20 years of modding cars, I still can make mistakes. If it's not bent, well, we will see what happens.
I cycled the ignition on and off before each test did about 12 adjustments between 3.2-3.9V and none of them passed. Flapper opens on test and doesn’t do anything after that. I left it set at about 3.55V and test drove it and still is acting up. Only weird thing is it doesn’t seem to do it at all in Drive mode. Only happens in sport and a lot using the paddles.Should cycle the ignition after every adjustment to get an accurate reading. Thats what i'd do if it were me.