anotero
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Hither and thither
- Car(s)
- Mk7 GTI
Thanks. They better hurry up.
Roughly 1250 for a full IS38 upgrade including tuning sounds good.
7
IS38 Upgrade Question
- Thread starter SaucyMuffin
- Start date
Roughly 1250 for a full IS38 upgrade including tuning sounds good.
CaptainRatty
Autocross Champion
- Location
- Winston-Salem, NC
- Car(s)
- MK7 GTI
Yup, that's what I'm leaning towards as well for next step.
StorableComa
Autocross Champion
- Location
- SoCal, USA
- Car(s)
- 17 GSW S FWD
So most of my reading on swapping to a IS38 only mentions using turbo primer like the liqui moly (https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/pro-line-turbocharger-additive-liqui-moly-lm22074) in the oil intake and oil line as far as "break in" for install. Seeing as the blades would cut themselves to fit with the coating, is there any soft driving time required or after it's spooled up a few times you can full send?
The threads I've read just say make sure it was primed on install and you're done.
Turbo’s break in pretty quickly. Stay completely out of positive atmospheric boost while inspecting the oil lines for at least 100 miles. Then for the next 300 miles just drive the way you normally do but avoid wide open throttle. If you make 1-3 psi that’s fine but try to curb that some.
as far as a special oil to fill that cavity with, the oil inlet. I’d honestly just fill it with your preferred engine oil. But using some special bullshit oil will obviously not do any harm either.
StorableComa
Autocross Champion
- Location
- SoCal, USA
- Car(s)
- 17 GSW S FWD
Think the additive is more a gel/goop than a fluid - at least cold. Not sure if you could prime with motor oil without disconnecting fuel/spark and turning the engine over a few times with the starter. Don't think hand turning would pull oil to the turbo, but I could be wrong. 
Oil might be too messy to pre-prime with seeing as it'd be a fire concern in that area. Just my thoughts, but it's only like 7 bucks and included in FCP's IHI kit so I can't see the harm in using it. They claim it helps against dry running-in damage in the first second(s) of running on a fresh install while oil is still being pumped to the turbo.
Oil might be too messy to pre-prime with seeing as it'd be a fire concern in that area. Just my thoughts, but it's only like 7 bucks and included in FCP's IHI kit so I can't see the harm in using it. They claim it helps against dry running-in damage in the first second(s) of running on a fresh install while oil is still being pumped to the turbo.U can disco for the sake of just turning it over. Or you can start it and have like no pressure for a few seconds. Either way worksThink the additive is more a gel/goop than a fluid - at least cold. Not sure if you could prime with motor oil without disconnecting fuel/spark and turning the engine over a few times with the starter. Don't think hand turning would pull oil to the turbo, but I could be wrong.
Agray
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Washington
Reviving this thread to ask a few questions to all you is38 upgrade folks...I've been kicking around Vortex vs. is38 for a while now and I landed on is38 being the more prudent choice for my situation... I'm generally risk averse and I intend to keep the car for 150k+ miles (basically until it quits).
- Still liking it? Any regrets? I'm shooting for 360HP and 400WTQ. Doable on pump 93?
- Are NGK 91006 (RS7) plugs ok to run with these turbos?
- I recall reading somewhere that the FCP is38 kit was missing a seal... Any truth to that or is the kit complete? Is Rev H still the latest?
- The FCP kit looks like it comes with a new waste gate actuator and DV? If that's correct, is the waste gate already calibrated?
- Is there a break in period for the is38?
- Is the OEM PCV up to the task of dealing with 26+lbs of boost? I won't be tracking it, but I'll get on it in the hills when I can.
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
1. That'd be pushing a is38 pretty hard on pump gas. Get a vortex if you want 360whp and it to last longer. it'll make 360whp at 6500 too 
2. sure
3. never read that. anything to do the swap can be bought separately.
4. yes but youll need to run adaptation
5. no
6. yes
2. sure
3. never read that. anything to do the swap can be bought separately.
4. yes but youll need to run adaptation
5. no
6. yes
Agray
Go Kart Champion
- Location
- Washington
Thanks Diggs. What do you consider to be safe levels for the is38 on pump gas? Any less is really going to cut it close to what I'm already making now on stage 2 is20 pump gas1. That'd be pushing a is38 pretty hard on pump gas. Get a vortex if you want 360whp and it to last longer. it'll make 360whp at 6500 too
2. sure
3. never read that. anything to do the swap can be bought separately.
4. yes but youll need to run adaptation
5. no
6. yes
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
360@6k is fine it's when they try and push them to make 360@6500 is when shit goes south. Buy once cry once.
U think a vortex on low/medium boost is the better option? Serious question btw.
Diggs24
Autocross Champion
- Location
- de plains! de plains!
- Car(s)
- 2015 GTI
At elevation? The most efficient turbo you can get with the least restrictive IC and DP.
Vortex std
AMS
trackslag catless
Good info. Thnx. Sadly swapping the dp isn’t an option. Not till there’s a carb legal dp. And that’s never ever gonna happen. I’d like to bridge the gap somehow while keeping the stock dp, but let’s be for real. It ain’t happening and it wouldn’t be financially feasible.
Definitely do have access. But I’ll wait till someone cracks real flex fuel. I’d be all in then.