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IS20 Instalation Guide (1.8t)

ChrisMk77

Autocross Champion
Location
Sweden
Car(s)
2018 GTI Performance
Does anybody know what to set the wastegate voltage at when swapping all the hardware from the is12 to is20
I have not done it yet but if I remember correct from other members the IS12/20 WG rests open so the car has to be running to show correct voltage of 3.2-3.6, mark the threads before removing the WG so you can set it identically on the new turbo and hope for the voltage to be close.
 

sim0n0

New member
Location
Quebec
Car(s)
2017 VW GolfAlltrack
Hi everyone, new member of the forum here, even if I was reading a lot since a little while. I wasn't sure if I needed to start a new thread or just post in here, but here we go:

Finally take the step and went to the is20 route for my 2017 DSG Alltrack last week, installed an IE downpipe while at it and was already running a JB4 since a little while on the is12.
I did the wastegate adaptation and I'm idling at 3.5254v.

I started to run everything on map 2 just to make sure everything was fine, and did some logs and sent them to George, he then recommended me last friday to set fuel bias to 100 and open loop to 60 and continue logging on map 2.
My problem is now a experience a drop in power when accelerating, like the car hesitate for a second or two during the acceleration, accelerate normal again along the rpm and massive drop of power, almost stalls before shifting, the tires even squeak when it happens. It always happens when on first gear, accelerating pedal to the floor, but happened also (If I remember correctly) on second gear. It's really freaking when it happens, and if I drive smoothly, everything is fine. I also noticed that when it happens and I'm logging, the JB4 mobile app freeze, I have to click manually "stop logging", and the rest of the app is responding. I'm really new to this, and the jb4 things, and understanding the charts so any help will be really appreciated since I don't want to damage anything. I don't know if it normal, but looking at the "gear" on the logs, its shows "9" at a moment

Here's my two last logs:

https://datazap.me/u/sim0n0/log-1595212529?log=0&data=1-4
https://datazap.me/u/sim0n0/log-1595212510?log=0&data=1-4

Thanks
 

danbfree

Go Kart Champion
Location
Portland, OR suburbia
Car(s)
2017 Golf 1.8 TSI
Hi everyone, new member of the forum here, even if I was reading a lot since a little while. I wasn't sure if I needed to start a new thread or just post in here, but here we go:

Finally take the step and went to the is20 route for my 2017 DSG Alltrack last week, installed an IE downpipe while at it and was already running a JB4 since a little while on the is12.
I did the wastegate adaptation and I'm idling at 3.5254v.

I started to run everything on map 2 just to make sure everything was fine, and did some logs and sent them to George, he then recommended me last friday to set fuel bias to 100 and open loop to 60 and continue logging on map 2.
My problem is now a experience a drop in power when accelerating, like the car hesitate for a second or two during the acceleration, accelerate normal again along the rpm and massive drop of power, almost stalls before shifting, the tires even squeak when it happens. It always happens when on first gear, accelerating pedal to the floor, but happened also (If I remember correctly) on second gear. It's really freaking when it happens, and if I drive smoothly, everything is fine. I also noticed that when it happens and I'm logging, the JB4 mobile app freeze, I have to click manually "stop logging", and the rest of the app is responding. I'm really new to this, and the jb4 things, and understanding the charts so any help will be really appreciated since I don't want to damage anything. I don't know if it normal, but looking at the "gear" on the logs, its shows "9" at a moment

Here's my two last logs:

https://datazap.me/u/sim0n0/log-1595212529?log=0&data=1-4
https://datazap.me/u/sim0n0/log-1595212510?log=0&data=1-4

Thanks
I wanted to see if you found the official JB4 support thread here yet? This is definitely a good question to post there!
 

MeltedSolid

Autocross Newbie
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'15 Golf, e36 328i
The boost isn't very high, but it does seem like you're pretty close to maxed out. There's a weird downward spike in the boost target at 5250rpm that I've never seen before. Try running it again, and try to rev all the way out to 6000-6500 rpm if possible.
 

Teo1.8t

Passed Driver's Ed
The boost isn't very high, but it does seem like you're pretty close to maxed out. There's a weird downward spike in the boost target at 5250rpm that I've never seen before. Try running it again, and try to rev all the way out to 6000-6500 rpm if possible.
I did another log in map 6 I will attach a picture of my map 6 settings below. I lifted of the throttle a little on that last log cause ontario roads are unpredictable haha

https://datazap.me/u/teoh18tsi/is20-map-6-log-2?log=0&data=1-4-5
 

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MeltedSolid

Autocross Newbie
Location
San Francisco Bay Area
Car(s)
'15 Golf, e36 328i
I'm not familliar with the ...654, but the ...722 is a good revision.
 

cospringsalltrack

New member
Location
colorado springs
Car(s)
2017 Alltrack DSG
Question for the Alltrack folks. did you even put the car up on ramps/stands or just work on it while on the ground? Looking through this guide, it seems as though there's no reason to go under the car. for those of you that took about 9 hours to do the install, have you done major work on cars before? I've mainly worked on domestics, but i've replaced motors, rebuilt diffs, installed t-cases etc. so I'm feeling pretty comfortable here.

for everyone else.
MeltedSolid, thanks for the write up. Super detailed and easy to follow

If the turbo came complete including the wastegate actuator off a running car, is there any reason to need to test the WG? worth getting a OBD11 prior to install?

I think I'm just doing the IS20 (with install kit), APR tune and new plugs. Going to pull the turbo out and not drain the radiator completely. Going to leave the DP and just push it to the side


What else am i missing? This seems too straight forward, but I haven't worked on turbo cars before.
 

joedubs

Go Kart Champion
The biggest pain in the ass IMO is draining the coolant. Even when you empty out the lower rad hose, there's still a lot left in the block, heater core, etc. It ALL comes out when you disconnect the turbo drain line.

But yeah, 99% of the work is done from the top.
 

cospringsalltrack

New member
Location
colorado springs
Car(s)
2017 Alltrack DSG
The biggest pain in the ass IMO is draining the coolant. Even when you empty out the lower rad hose, there's still a lot left in the block, heater core, etc. It ALL comes out when you disconnect the turbo drain line.

But yeah, 99% of the work is done from the top.
so are you saying that if I only remove the coolant line from the turbo, all fluid in the engine/rad comes out? Or does that only happen when you remove the lower rad hose, they remove the turbo it all comes out. I just seem to recall a few guys in this thread saying they lost minimal coolant by just removing the line from the turbo.
 

Sparky589

Drag Racing Champion
Definitely recommend getting under the car. The line that you remove from the block would be a nightmare to access from the top, and probably impossible with the downpipe still in the way.

Prepare for a nice splash of coolant regardless of what you do.
 

yakev724

Go Kart Champion
Location
NYC
Car(s)
2015 S3
Definitely recommend getting under the car. The line that you remove from the block would be a nightmare to access from the top, and probably impossible with the downpipe still in the way.

Prepare for a nice splash of coolant regardless of what you do.

Applies to AWD as well? I understand in that case prop shaft gets in the way (also uses stretch bolts which need to be replaced) and AWD DP is much more work to remove as well. Might not be worth it if it can be avoided, even at the cost of extra couple hrs wrestling the lines.

About to order the 4 mounting nuts and o-rings. I take it replacing the studs isn't necessary (first swap)?

Anyone have the audi TSB pdf handy? apr link is down--thanks
 
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