Intercooler aftermarket upgrade... will it add more lag?

[geebob]

Can't tell if serious or sarcastic lol

Just thinking the idea of converting the kinetic energy of a ton and a half moving 100 mph into heat with those little pads and round things would make a good argument. No way! Impossible!

 

[Reggie Enchilada]

Just thinking the idea of converting the kinetic energy of a ton and a half moving 100 mph into heat with those little pads and round things would make a good argument. No way! Impossible!

What is this witchcraft that you speak of? How could something so small stop something so large?

 

[Makowski17]

I had to revive this 4 year old thread because of how funny it is. I never realized power adder mods are actually "less power loss mods"

By that logic, every car post 1970, or post ecu, doesn't actually make more power when adding better aftermarket parts, they just "allow the motor to lose less power" WTF.. how can a motor make more power then you ask???
The only way a motor makes more power is if its fully mechanical. Has a carb and distributor. Right????? By this hippy logic .. wrong again... because if you had a big carb and you added a better intake manifold, your not actually making more power, your just allowing the carb to dump more fuel into the faster more efficient intake. Not adding power, just allowing carb to, run optimal..


1. Car on dyno
2. Car makes hp #
3. Swap out any part
4. Car makes higher hp #

Answer: THE PART ADDED X AMOUNT OF HORSIES... done, enough with the overphylosiphication of racecar

 

[Makowski17]

I had to revive this 4 year old thread because of how funny it is. I never realized power adder mods are actually "less power loss mods"

By that logic, every car post 1970, or post ecu, doesn't actually make more power when adding better aftermarket parts, they just "allow the motor to lose less power" WTF.. how can a motor make more power then you ask???
The only way a motor makes more power is if its fully mechanical. Has a carb and distributor. Right????? By this hippy logic .. wrong again... because if you had a big carb and you added a better intake manifold, your not actually making more power, your just allowing the carb to dump more fuel into the faster more efficient intake. Not adding power, just allowing carb to, run optimal..


1. Car on dyno
2. Car makes hp #
3. Swap out any part
4. Car makes higher hp #

Answer: THE PART ADDED X AMOUNT OF HORSIES... done, enough with the overphylosiphication of racecar

Exactly, things like IC's, intakes, exhausts, lightweight pulleys, and lightweight flywheels don't produce any power. Instead, they enable the engine to run more efficiently.

For example, if you dyno a car with the stock crank pulley and get a result of 300HP, then you swap a lightweight crank pulley and dyno it with a result of 305HP, you didn't gain 5HP. All that shows is that you no longer lost 5HP to parasitic drag.

The engine produced 305HP in both situations, the difference being that the engine wasted less energy on spinning the lighter pulley, compared to the heavier one. Because of that, the energy that was not lost was able to be transferred to the wheels.

I'm done.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

I had to revive this 4 year old thread because of how funny it is. I never realized power adder mods are actually "less power loss mods"

By that logic, every car post 1970, or post ecu, doesn't actually make more power when adding better aftermarket parts, they just "allow the motor to lose less power" WTF.. how can a motor make more power then you ask???
The only way a motor makes more power is if its fully mechanical. Has a carb and distributor. Right????? By this hippy logic .. wrong again... because if you had a big carb and you added a better intake manifold, your not actually making more power, your just allowing the carb to dump more fuel into the faster more efficient intake. Not adding power, just allowing carb to, run optimal..


1. Car on dyno
2. Car makes hp #
3. Swap out any part
4. Car makes higher hp #

Answer: THE PART ADDED X AMOUNT OF HORSIES... done, enough with the overphylosiphication of racecar

Medicinal or recreational?

 

[Hollywood0220]

This thread was utterly fractured.
Bottom Line is:
On any given tune, the VALUES/TABLES are set. Whether they be Dyno Tuned or OTS - a tune is a tune.
IF after the tune, aftermarket components are added w/o modifying those VALUES/TABLES - a performance gain can be maximized through increased efficiency, thus utilizing a more "full extent" of those VALUES/TABLES.
Conversely, performance can also be disrupted by components that the pre-sets are unable to compensate for.

The original question was:
Applying an after market IC w/o any depreciable lag.
ANSWER:
An after market IC can increase the turbos' efficiency, flow, and cooling w/o negative side effects.
IC's are not all equal - choose the IC that has the flow capability and cooling that you require for you set-up (one size/configuration doesn't fit all).
(EDIT)
The sizing of stock turbos available on the MQB platform are miniscule compared to the quantity of Air Volume the turbo is pushing through them.
Expect increased spool if you keep with the stock location types. FMICs (since the tubing connections are a bit longer) may feel more like the stock response.

ECU 101

 

[Hollywood0220]

So even ppl with the factory tune should see an improvement with a bigger intercooler (for example APR’s).
Not necessarily hp gains. But less heat soak.

Yes. You will see slightly lower boost pressure being applied to meet the set torque target - due to a slightly better flow and cooling. You will have consistant combustion efficiency and put down the "true" power that the factory tune perameters allow for w/o the ECU negatively interfering - because it wouldn't need to.

 

[Strange Mud]

Medicinal or recreational?

#whynotboth


and stickers, always more stickers

 

[jimlloyd40]

So less boost to make the same power or slightly more. Because the system is more efficient.

Since I live in a desert. But want to keep my warranty. I’m debating upgrading my factory intercooler.

Here’s a dumb question for anyone that knows. You know how the factory clutch is almost maxed out on stock power. And it’s recommended to upgrade the clutch when getting the stage 1 tune. So would running a bigger intercooler. (And having full torque or slightly more.) Would that make it to start slipping faster?

No because an intercooler doesn't add power it just helps keep you from losing power if the ambient temperature is higher.

 

[StorableComa]

Larger IC will help with heat soak, as the IC is just a big heat exchanger for the air being fed into the turbo. Also helps cool quicker once you get air flowing through it, so lower temps sooner after you get out of traffic or off an idle line. It will only allow the engine to work more efficiently, not increase power like a Tune would. A Tune is going to change your boost profiles and such, which requires the turbo to work harder. A larger IC is a benefit here as you can cool more air/cool air more efficiently to get the most out of the extra load you're putting on the turbo.

 

[Hollywood0220]

So less boost to make the same power or slightly more. Because the system is more efficient.

Since I live in a desert. But want to keep my warranty. I’m debating about upgrading my factory intercooler.

Here’s a dumb question for anyone that knows. You know how the factory clutch is almost maxed out on stock power. And it’s recommended to upgrade the clutch when getting the stage 1 tune. So would running a bigger intercooler. (And having full torque or slightly more.) Would that make it to start slipping faster?

When upgrading your components to more efficient components, that in itself DOES NOT void the entire warranty. It obviously voids that specific component, but NOT the entire drivetrain.
Things to avoid (if you're concerned about warranty) are fueling components, turbos and connections directly to them, BOVs, or reprogramming the ECU - just to name a few.
Although, these changes don't "always" apply to warranty, they generally do - and the only recourse is to get fully engaged letigiously.

Onto your clutch question:
I have seen and read of many MT GTIs that are on Stage 1 tunes w/o upgrading the stock clutch - this all depends on WHICH tune you opt for and from WHICH tuner you get it from (if they are OTS). There are Low torque and High torque variations and often users will opt for the Low torque for that specific purpose.
The increase of power is what is applying more contact friction to your transmission. However, on the stock tune you are using the same ECU diagram and adding an IC is simply keeping it from retarding the timing - so you remain optimum.
Conversely, I have seen and read of MT GTIs that burn out their stock clutches w/o any modifications.
If you drive more spiritedly more often and live in a dry/arid region that has extreme high/low temps - ensure you increase your lubrication fluid intervals and that will assist greatly preventing premature wear.
Now, the actual "shifting" part is directly related to the driver.

 

[Keehs360]

I wanted to see what a gti with 245’s felt like at 10/10’s. This gti belonged to a track buddy. It was outfitted with the twin cooler too. And yeah. There was a hair of lag down low. It was hardly a hiccup though. Clearly the extra volume took a bit to fill in at wide open throttle.

but frankly I think it felt great, in a fwd car especially. The is20 spools so fast, I think that extra 200-300rpm’s worth of lag was great.

just an observation.