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Installed FMIC. Now there is a loud single clunk startup.

SLCBrrap

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Salt Lake City
Car(s)
MK7R (Sold), MK7
The startup sounds and feels like a single clunk on startup. It feels like metal to metal but I can’t figure out what it might be. After a test drive it sounds like there is a boost leak but I didn’t think that would be related. Thoughts?

When I installed the ARM FMIC it was very close to the radiator so I put some foam between the IC and the radiator so that it wouldn’t hit it (pics attached) Maybe it is pressing and causing something to hit?
 

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PerceivedShift

Autocross Champion
Location
Virginia
If it is hitting somewhere you should be able to see some contact scrapes on a pipe or the FMIC.
 

SLCBrrap

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Salt Lake City
Car(s)
MK7R (Sold), MK7
Still stock downpipe for now. I’ll get under the car again tomorrow and check it out. I’ll post what I find!
 

SLCBrrap

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Salt Lake City
Car(s)
MK7R (Sold), MK7
Well I took everything apart again today. I didn’t see any visible marks on the catback or downpipe. I uninstalled the intervooler completely and the clunk went away… only thing I can think of is either 1) the intercooler mounting bolts are hitting the crash bar or 2) the way it is mounted and putting slight pressure with the foam I put between it and radiator is somehow putt stress on another part.

Either way it is going in on Wednesday for a service (bought it used and I don’t know what maintenance was deferred) and I’ll ask them for their opinion. I am not giving up on the intercioler yet! That gold ARM paint makes me look back every time!

6697D1C0-E0E8-4FEC-B1C1-3E3C48F6CA15.jpeg
 

nok513

Autocross Champion
Location
Orange County, NY
Car(s)
2020 VW GTI S
Did you bend your temp sensor bracket back, or cut it off? I bent mine back and iirc, the fmic felt snug up against it so there wasn't any movement there. Where did you place your sensor? On the one image you posted, I don't see the sensor attached to the relocation mount.

Just recently, I noticed my pipe on the driver side is scraping on the belly pan right where the 2 vents are. Doesn't make a clunking sound though. When you go at it again, make sure all connections, are snug super tight. I tightened the clamps till it wouldn't anymore to prevent them from pipes from popping off or leaks. Pull on any pipes and connections you touched before startup. Keep the bumper off till you confirm everything seems good to you. If you can have someone else start it up while you listen for that clunk would be best. Don't put the bumper back on until you're sure it's all good to save you the hassle.
 

Hambone

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Florida
Car(s)
2020 TR GTI SE
Did you bend your temp sensor bracket back, or cut it off? I bent mine back and iirc, the fmic felt snug up against it so there wasn't any movement there. Where did you place your sensor? On the one image you posted, I don't see the sensor attached to the relocation mount.

Just recently, I noticed my pipe on the driver side is scraping on the belly pan right where the 2 vents are. Doesn't make a clunking sound though. When you go at it again, make sure all connections, are snug super tight. I tightened the clamps till it wouldn't anymore to prevent them from pipes from popping off or leaks. Pull on any pipes and connections you touched before startup. Keep the bumper off till you confirm everything seems good to you. If you can have someone else start it up while you listen for that clunk would be best. Don't put the bumper back on until you're sure it's all good to save you the hassle.

I had the same problem with the pipes pressing to the belly pan. Did this ever induce any sort of vibrations while driving for you?
 

nok513

Autocross Champion
Location
Orange County, NY
Car(s)
2020 VW GTI S
I had the same problem with the pipes pressing to the belly pan. Did this ever induce any sort of vibrations while driving for you?
I can't say for sure since I had a dogbone insert and ARM dp prior to installing the fmic. So I already had vibrations and noises that would probably cover up any nose that would make. Besides, I can't imagine much noise coming from scraping since it's metal on plastic. Any clunking would be bigger movements, metal of metal...ie, loose endlinks, suspension bits, etc.

I can only assume that one of the nuts to the brackets are loose on his setup where the fmic could be hitting the radiator or crash bar. One other thing that came to mind could be the horn placement. I noticed the pipe is really close to the horn on the drive side so maybe that's something to look into.
 

mk7_bk

Autocross Champion
if there is a clunk, it is most likely hitting something, check all bands, screws, etc while the car is sitting on the ground if you can, take the bumper off and while its on the ground maybe the suspension is compressed and it then hits. Also possible maybe the engine mounts are worn and on start up the engine shifts a little or could be fine. For me it would depend on how loud this said clunk is, did anything get in the pipes while open
 

nok513

Autocross Champion
Location
Orange County, NY
Car(s)
2020 VW GTI S
if there is a clunk, it is most likely hitting something, check all bands, screws, etc while the car is sitting on the ground if you can, take the bumper off and while its on the ground maybe the suspension is compressed and it then hits. Also possible maybe the engine mounts are worn and on start up the engine shifts a little or could be fine. For me it would depend on how loud this said clunk is, did anything get in the pipes while open
My big ass head wouldn't fit under the car and that's on stock suspension...lol. I did my install on ramps, so maybe that would give him enough clearance to poke around and still have the suspension compressed.
 

odessa.filez

Autocross Champion
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
I did an ARM IC install a couple weeks ago. I have at least 1.5 inches clearance to the ac condenser. I did take some extra effort breaking off the ambient air sensor bracket and then filing it down. Any chance you misaligned the brackets?
 

Hambone

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Florida
Car(s)
2020 TR GTI SE
I did an ARM IC install a couple weeks ago. I have at least 1.5 inches clearance to the ac condenser. I did take some extra effort breaking off the ambient air sensor bracket and then filing it down. Any chance you misaligned the brackets?
Is your car a mk7 or mk7.5 (face-lift)
 

odessa.filez

Autocross Champion
Location
Roswell, GA
Car(s)
2016 GSW 1.8tsi auto
Mk7
 

SLCBrrap

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Salt Lake City
Car(s)
MK7R (Sold), MK7
I did an ARM IC install a couple weeks ago. I have at least 1.5 inches clearance to the ac condenser. I did take some extra effort breaking off the ambient air sensor bracket and then filing it down. Any chance you misaligned the brackets?
It is a mk7.5 so the clearance is a bit tighter. I read about some of the fitment issues with the facelift model and figured I could make it work. The way the brackets are bent, the intercooler slightly pushes into the radiator shifting it by about a 1/4 inch. My best guess is that is shifting something else down the line and causing a clunk when then stock mounts shimmy on startup. I used and angle grinder to cut off the ambient air temp bracket. No way it was going to fit between the crash bar and radiator with that still on.

I got underneath and it didn’t look like anything was hitting anywhere else during my troubleshooting. The wifey got real sick of starting and shutting off while I was underneath the car lol.

after it goes in for a service (going to have them check a few other items that may be going wrong) I think I am going to try a different mounting solution. I don’t really like how it is resting on the radiator and the whole sandwich method on the support.il It looks like I could get some rubber bushings ( I ration dampening) and then try to do a crash bar mount after drilling similar to the CTS intercooler. This would give me about 1/2 separation between the intercooler and everything else it might hit. + make me feel better that I can torque it down to a metal frame. I’ll let y’all know what I find out and post the results!

I’ll definitely be doing some troubleshooting before putting on the bumper this time lol. Good news is I can put my DP and catback on after it gets back from the dealer too!
 

SLCBrrap

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Salt Lake City
Car(s)
MK7R (Sold), MK7
if there is a clunk, it is most likely hitting something, check all bands, screws, etc while the car is sitting on the ground if you can, take the bumper off and while its on the ground maybe the suspension is compressed and it then hits. Also possible maybe the engine mounts are worn and on start up the engine shifts a little or could be fine. For me it would depend on how loud this said clunk is, did anything get in the pipes while open
I think you are in to something with the engine mounts. I am getting a weird vibration during the cold start as well and the dealer is going to take a look since it is still under warranty for at least the next 8 days. Stage 2 and TD1 inbound lol
 

SLCBrrap

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Salt Lake City
Car(s)
MK7R (Sold), MK7
I can't say for sure since I had a dogbone insert and ARM dp prior to installing the fmic. So I already had vibrations and noises that would probably cover up any nose that would make. Besides, I can't imagine much noise coming from scraping since it's metal on plastic. Any clunking would be bigger movements, metal of metal...ie, loose endlinks, suspension bits, etc.

I can only assume that one of the nuts to the brackets are loose on his setup where the fmic could be hitting the radiator or crash bar. One other thing that came to mind could be the horn placement. I noticed the pipe is really close to the horn on the drive side so maybe that's something to look into.
I am going to pay close attention to this when installing next time. I am going to try a ARM install and run troubleshooting and then my own install method on the crash bar if all else fails. If we can make the install just a little easier with $15 of hardware from lowes why not
 
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