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Indium Gray Metallic Money Pit Mk7.5R

Autobahn

Autocross Champion
Location
Huntington Beach, CA
Car(s)
'18 Golf R
Sounds like you’re getting close to getting it back together. My rebuild seemed like it took forever although I wasn’t in a rush.

Lookin forward to some iAbed oil pan pics 👍
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Sounds like you’re getting close to getting it back together. My rebuild seemed like it took forever although I wasn’t in a rush.

Lookin forward to some iAbed oil pan pics 👍
So, getting there but running into a fitment problem. Seems like the spacer for the oil level sensor isn't big enough, even with the tip removed it still doesn't fit.

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edit: apparently the tip of the sensor has to be shaved, per Iabed. Weird that they revised the sensor like this.
 
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scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Big day, car is running and moving again. Had to bring my ross-tech in to reset adaptations. Did both the "timing chain after other service" (since it's not a new chain, but it is new to the ECU) and the throttle body valve basic settings. Rear e-brake motor was also throwing codes, had to run the ebrake test setting a couple times.

Got the car out on the road, warmed it up, gave it a bit of throttle and felt what kinda felt like a hesitation, but no codes. Got on it again and it felt totally out of steam, looked at the logs and it's making no boost. Still no codes, wtf.

Pull back in, horrible creaking noise when turning. Turns out the caster bushings are shot, probably from the combination of coolant exposure and sitting on jackstands for months.

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Checked some other stuff out, came back and one of the guys said "oh yeah, btw, your throttle pipe bung is missing." Probably explains the lack of boost.

So, 99% there. Waiting on unitronic to let me know what hardware I need and some new black powerflex bushings.

The new motor looked very clean. Did an engine flush on a clean filter, not much there. And the intake valves were very clean already. We had to trim the oil level sensor, apparently the mk7.5 revised it to make it a bit longer and so it didn't quite fit the iABED oil pan. Seems they developed it on the ea888.1, so there's been a few changes, but the baffling is super nice.

Also, used Bosch -AK injectors instead of the shitty continentals that fail all the time. 100% drop-in replacement if you're already on R injectors.

Also, a couple weeks into the replacement I got a message from my wavetrac dealer saying they had the DQ381 diff in stock. Awesome, my trans was literally sitting on a table. Ordered one, paid for it, a week later, nothing and my shop wants to put the motor back in. Called up wavetrac/autotech and they dunno what the vendor was seeing but the new front/rear diffs are still 4-5 months from production.

So we proceed without it, whatever. Yesterday I get an email from a Quaife dealer saying they finally finalized their design for the DQ381 and it's in stock and ready to ship. One week earlier and it'd probably already be in the car! Oh well.

Will be tearing apart the old motor completely before long, one of the techs thinks it looked like coolant got into the bottom end and spun a rod bearing, but it's not clear how that could have happened, at least prior to the rotating assembly making holes in everything.
 
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Autobahn

Autocross Champion
Location
Huntington Beach, CA
Car(s)
'18 Golf R
Congrats, so close.

How much did you shave off the sensor and do you shave the part labeled “A” in the pic?

btw - is Quaife planning to make a rear diff too?
 
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scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Congrats, so close.

How much did you shave off the sensor and do you shave the part labeled “A” in the pic?

btw - is Quaife planning to make a rear diff too?
Not much, maybe a 1/4"? But that was shaved off part B, A is the cap you can just remove. The sensor is still working fine.

I haven't heard of it if they do. But the rear is welded-on so it'll require machining (unless you buy one pre-assembled).


edit: Sorry for no iABED pics. Will grab some during the next oil change. I also used a slightly different underbelly tray, 3Q0825236C. It retains the ducts in front of the transmission but doesn't have the padding/insulation that the A3 tray I had prior had. Doesn't contact the iabed pan either.
 
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scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
99.9% done now. Car's been sitting at the shop waiting on new caster bushings, chasing boost leaks in the mean time. Might have fixed them all, gonna log it in the morning and then have an alignment booked after work.

TBH if these bushings are as bad as they seem (not just me according to the apex taxi guys:
), I might look into the class legality of a verkline subframe. Dropping it to change these arms out is already getting old. Hopefully the black powerflex bushes do the job.

Sounds like my trip to the dragon next week is off, so plan to shake down the motor at Grattan on Saturday then spend most of next week working through my giant pile of suspension and brake parts. Then rip as many October track days as I can cram in.
 

Naz7r

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
Chicago
Car(s)
Mk7.5 Golf R
So no software changes needed for the Bosch injectors? I was thinking about grabbing a set for my 2019R to replace when I pull the manifold for carbon cleaning and MPI install in a few weeks
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
So no software changes needed for the Bosch injectors? I was thinking about grabbing a set for my 2019R to replace when I pull the manifold for carbon cleaning and MPI install in a few weeks
Correct, all of the mk7 R injectors flow the same. I think the new injectors (conti) might not fit pre-19 cars but the other direction is fine.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
I take that back, tentatively. Boost leaks are resolved, now the car is overboosting by quite a bit and running super rich on low/partial load. Not sure if it's the bosch injectors or what. UM is completely unresponsive of course. Looking at other options.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
So for example, this is a low speed/low pedal log. STFT goes down past -30, not good.

Overboosts as well but I can just not floor it for the time being. Wastegate voltage is around 3.58v at closed, so that seems fine?

Was thinking a vacuum leak (idle surges a bit too), and I did find a vacuum hose unplugged at the intake, but fixing that didn't change much. Nothing else obviously unplugged, checked everything I can get my eyes on.

I'm assuming/hoping it's all either something disconnected/loose or an adaptation that needs to be run for the new motor, but I can't find much. Ran the throttle valve and timing chain basic setting before I started it up the first time. The engine manual mentions an adaptation for the intake manifold but I can't find it in VCDS for the life of me.
 

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