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Indium Gray Metallic Money Pit Mk7.5R

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
View attachment 215441

Finally got my trackslag back from ceramic coating. Looks fantastic! Got an appointment booked in a couple weeks to get the XL and whatnot installed at last.
Went to start it up yesterday and the idle is super rough though. Drives fine under throttle, but does not sound good in park/reverse. Thinking maybe the IHK27s I got have fouled out already? Can't find some of my plug tools so I gotta wait to pull them and check. Worried that maybe it's injectors instead--I assume the UM tune is pretty much DI-only at idle?




Sounds like it has performance cams in it. Too bad it's not supposed to sound like that.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Yeah, I wish that was normal, haha. Part of the sound is the exhaust rattling a bit, I'll have them adjust it when the downpipe goes on.
No codes/faults, just an inactive code for "fuel delivery error" (multiple non-starts due to the LPFP setup will reactivate it). I need to figure out how to log MPI, but I'm guessing it's the trash rockauto plugs I used last time.


Picked up a knockoff openport dongle to see if I can get the opensource high-speed logging working. One of the big problems giving up cobb was losing the quick/easy logging for troubleshooting.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Went through the ignition stuff, did a compression test, all fine. Shop appointment came up so had them go through it and cyl3 direct injector was leaking. Replacing all 4 at their recommendation. Relieved the motor itself is healthy.


Anyone know if you can get more ethanol-resistant seals/baskets for these injectors? I think that was a thing on the old TFSI injectors, but the only aftermarket option for DI I know of is Nostrum who does a full injector replacement.


Killed some time with a G2 kit and my macan calipers the other night, too. Did a high grit sanding + clean first, but it took quite a few coats of G2 to get an opaque yellow look rather than green. Followed up with brembo decals and a couple coats of VHT clear. Looks like garbage IMO but with enough brake dust who can tell?
PXL_20210617_161809600.jpg
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
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This is the cause of most of my problems. Direct injectors were super backordered. Gotta kill another month til the XL re-tune, and my struts are backordered, so probably nothing more exciting than some new wheel pics. Here's what the exhaust housing on a standard housing vortex looks like after 10k miles though:

PXL_20210713_023539979.jpg
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
After 8 months of overboosting, waiting on parts, shop appointments, tuning, etc. it's finally running great. Moved to a do88 intercooler along with the XL and 4" downpipe. PTP blanket + ceramic coating certainly helping with the heat too. Took about 5 revisions with Fred but it's hitting 33psi which is about as far as I want to go on the stock motor.

With 235 PS4S it's definitely traction-limited, so I'm definitely not itching to build the block just yet. Just got some new 18x9 RSE11Rs graphene-coated, will be putting some 255 PS4S on to see if that solves it. Otherwise I'm probably swapping one of the wheelsets to R888Rs. Hopefully have those wheels on for some beauties this weekend.


Still having some LPFP weirdness, mostly on start. I'm sure it's just the ethanol + lack of check valve but I'm gonna try a PM5 instead of the silver retrofit controller that's jammed in over the tank. I had great luck with the PM4 and the additional visibility will be handy.

I had the UM work done at Mason Motorworks down in Dayton, OH. Can't recommend Mason enough, he's a standup dude. Had some time between pulls and he threw my car up on the lift to take a look at my downpipe fitment. The final section of the trackslag is about as beefy as you can get (I don't know how someone would do a 4" all the way). Super close to both the driveshaft and the chassis brace. Rotated the mid-pipe and added some spacers on the brace. Better, but the long-term fix will be a custom mid-pipe/resonator section of the catback. Leyo includes a giant resonator box, I'll probably swap it out for a smaller vibrant bottle resonator.

PXL_20210810_181807798.jpegPXL_20210810_181800320.jpeg
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Just go ahead and do the R888Rs now.
Probably should but I had the Michelins from my last car already.


Managed to get the 255s mounted up this afternoon, just threw them on and washed off the mounting gunk. Lookin' nice and meaty. Very, very close to the struts (less than a finger in the front, even less than that in the rear). 18x9+45 RSE11R with 255/35/18 PS4S. I might consider some 3-5mm spacers in the rear at least, just for safety. I think +42 is likely the sweet spot for this setup.
IMG_20210813_172332.jpeg20210813_183159.jpegPXL_20210813_214600147.jpeg
 
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j255c

Drag Racing Champion
Location
New York
Car(s)
2018 Golf R Manual
Man this makes me wish I got gray. Interested in seeing your tune results. Has the downpipe shown any rubbing signs?
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Man this makes me wish I got gray. Interested in seeing your tune results. Has the downpipe shown any rubbing signs?
It does about a 3.7s 0-60, but I'm still trying to figure out my tires. Diggs is right, I should have gone straight to the Toyos. No reason it shouldn't be doing 3.0 or less. Hard to find good surfaces around here too, the local counties keep doing this tar + gravel BS and the roads anywhere nearby get covered in low-traction junk. I'll try to log a pull or two soon, the spool on the XL feels pretty good with e85 and the trackslag, but I'm curious just how quick it is.



No rubbing after we adjusted the midpipe (it was rubbing on the chassis brace). Still pretty close and I want something louder, so thinking about moving to a AWE Switchpath + custom mid-pipe.

Trying to knock out some brake work this week, supposed to hit up some autox on an old oval track nearby this weekend.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Spent several nights trying to get my stock rotors off. PB blasted the crap out of em, rubber mallet, 4# mallet with a plank of wood, took the studs out. Friend of mine came over to try a blowtorch, asks me to show him how I'm hitting em, 3 taps on each side and they fall right off. Sigh.

Got the fronts done, new DS2500s with some sexy racingbrake 2pc rotors (6.5lbs lighter). Super noticeable change from weight alone.
Metalnerd tool to retract the rear piston just showed up and I got obd11 to put the EPB in pad change mode, so hopefully finished with the rest soon.


PXL_20210827_034054922.jpgPXL_20210827_042213475.jpg
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Almost ready to bed the rears. Huge pain figuring out the piston, lots of youtube videos with info that just didn't work. Rough recipe:

(retract EPB with vcds/obd11 first)
remove guide pin boots, then remove caliper guide pins.
remove rattle clip, slide caliper off, remove pads. secure caliper.
I took the carrier off (after removing m14 triple square bolts), though I saw someone remove the rotor without taking it off.
Replace rotor/set screw. Reinstall carrier with fresh bolts. hand-tighten to make sure it's straight.
Open up brake fluid cap.
Use the twisting piston retracting tool (I used metalnerd mn3272). Twist clockwise until there's an obvious stop.
Then, use a normal piston spreader to push the piston the last bit of the way. I wasn't able to clear the new pads without doing this.
Close brake fluid cap, grease up pistons, install, and then slide caliper back on and grease/thread guide pins back on. Reinstall rattle clip.
Torque everything down, reinstall pin boots and run the EPB close setting.

1630185592192.png


Dunno if he's around anymore, but thanks @Cliff for the hookup on the pads and dropping a comment a couple years back about the piston retraction process.
 

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scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Finally got the car out on track, hit up Grattan on an amazing Saturday. Very technical with totally blind curves and a fun jump that sent a few cars off. No heat problems, brakes held up, fresh PS4S did fine for stock camber (addressing this soon). I was grateful given how quickly most of the more power-modded cars had issues. Can't wait to get out again after the suspension is sorted.
 

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scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Finally fixed the catback rattle, washers weren't really cutting it but recently found this company with a great chassis brace:

https://tbperformanceproducts.com/p...wagen-mk7-gti2014-2021-rear-mid-chassis-brace

TBH I think most of their products are snake oil (and I'm sure this does nothing for handling) but it added a ton of clearance.

Switched to DWS06+ for the winter, they're nothing great but they were cheap and were in stock.

Ordered the A2B diy harness and found a good deal on an rs3 pump and controller, the e5lm is overkill and scarce enough that I can make a decent amount back on resale. All in, about $700 for the new setup compared to the highway robbery markup on the EQT/IMS kits. Splice two wires and connect a hose, not hard.

Also working on figuring out an ideal winter PCV solution. I know some people have ran a line straight from the spulen plate to the inlet, but judging by the crap in my can, that's probably not wise. Looking at several steps:
  1. New PCV - cheap, already have an AN line to run from that to the AN-10 adapter on my inlet, might blow again if I push it.
  2. AOS + oil pan with a return port - gotta sort custom lines, custom bracket, deal with dropping the oil pan and adding a fitting to a new one.
  3. Waste money on the full APR catch can kit to get their plate and then likely re-do the feed but retain the OE oil return in the head--probably not worthwhile unless the spulen plate starts failing.
Option 4 is to avoid using the car over winter, but I'm really tired of checking and emptying the can.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Slowly winterizing. Waiting on a new hose and clamp for the PCV, old hose is on there good and don't like re-using a 50 cent clamp.

The Antigravity does *not* like sub-40F weather, even left on a tender. Car acted like the battery is resetting on start-up, get sudden and intermittent messages on the dash about "please put car in P and exit, service vehicle immediately," triggered an airbag light (!) a few times, and threw a ton of codes of implausible signals, undervoltage, etc. Tried the recommended route of letting the cells discharge a bit to warm them up with headlights/seat heaters, but wasn't much better.

Threw the stock group 48 EFB chonker back on after giving it a refresher on the tender and things are much better. Probably a dumb idea but ordered the Clubsport S battery: 000915105DB. Came stock on the early Mk7s and I've had start-stop disabled forever so mayyyyybe it'll be fine.
 

PowerDemon

Autocross Champion
Location
Richmond, VA
Car(s)
Golf GTI, Camaro ZL1
Slowly winterizing. Waiting on a new hose and clamp for the PCV, old hose is on there good and don't like re-using a 50 cent clamp.

The Antigravity does *not* like sub-40F weather, even left on a tender. Car acted like the battery is resetting on start-up, get sudden and intermittent messages on the dash about "please put car in P and exit, service vehicle immediately," triggered an airbag light (!) a few times, and threw a ton of codes of implausible signals, undervoltage, etc. Tried the recommended route of letting the cells discharge a bit to warm them up with headlights/seat heaters, but wasn't much better.

Threw the stock group 48 EFB chonker back on after giving it a refresher on the tender and things are much better. Probably a dumb idea but ordered the Clubsport S battery: 000915105DB. Came stock on the early Mk7s and I've had start-stop disabled forever so mayyyyybe it'll be fine.

Interesting. How many AH is the battery and how old is it?

I just installed a Braille G30, and it started in 30*F weather just fine.
 
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