Indium Gray Metallic Money Pit Mk7.5R

[Superfreak]

View attachment 283663

Went to RS3 bushings, stock balljoints, vorshlag plates, and superpro bushings in the rear lower camber arm and knuckle. Added about a degree of caster on the +caster setting, evened out camber a bit.

Fairly pleased, plates add a slight amount of road feedback but less with the RS3 rubber pieces. Hoping I don't need to re-torque the vorshlag nut, would require dropping the strut or cutting the tower at this point.


Was offered a couple parts sponsorships for brakes and injectors. Not sure either will be something I'd recommend but excited to try some new stuff soon.

Congrats on the parts sponsors, that’s awesome.

 

[scrllock]

Some info that people with 2019+ cars might find interesting. Besides material differences on the contis, they seem to be a drastically different design.


https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...c-money-pit-mk7-5r.383827/page-2#post-7675333

Had them check out that injector as well, and they determined the seal failure was due to overheating at the tip. It's possible this could have happened eventually, but was likely exacerbated by UM leaning more on PI and not running enough fuel through the direct injectors to cool them off.

This seems to be a pretty common issue with 2019+ cars. Personally I'm on the Bosch R part now which is working fine, and my current tune is running way more DI than on the old motor.

 

[El_bigote_AJ]

So… nostrum… you testing their injectors then?

 

[Daks]

View attachment 284261

Some info that people with 2019+ cars might find interesting. Besides material differences on the contis, they seem to be a drastically different design.


https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/inde...c-money-pit-mk7-5r.383827/page-2#post-7675333

Had them check out that injector as well, and they determined the seal failure was due to overheating at the tip. It's possible this could have happened eventually, but was likely exacerbated by UM leaning more on PI and not running enough fuel through the direct injectors to cool them off.

This seems to be a pretty common issue with 2019+ cars. Personally I'm on the Bosch R part now which is working fine, and my current tune is running way more DI than on the old motor.

Is38 right?

 

[scrllock]

Is38 right?

Now, yes. But I don't understand why they ran a lot less DI duty cycle on my other turbos. No reason you have to take fueling out of DI for a larger turbo.

 

[scrllock]

Been holding off on posting about this since I was hoping the vendor would help make it right, but I feel the need to share my experiences with Premium Deutsch Carbon.

I ordered a their level 1 "vented" hood on march 3rd of last year. It arrived near the end of November. That's just what shipping from China was like back then, whatever.

I opened the box and discovered that the "vented" hood had no vents. It has a hole in the middle of the upper side of the hood, but there is no path for air out of the bay. The vents on the sides are totally closed off. Apparently level 1 means "not actually vented" despite the product description:

Screenshot of the page for the product. Over 6 months later, it still claims it's vented. It's not!

PDC's solution was to tell me to modify the hood and dremel out the areas that would create a path for air. The only spot on the underside of the hood to cut is at the back, near the windshield! Then I'd have to dremel out the CF side vents, which would then have no mesh stopping debris from getting in and clogging the rain ports (at least it has rain ports!).


I was really bummed about this, and really just didn't feel like sawing into my $1700 hood. Put it in a corner of the garage and wrapped it up.

Yesterday, we finally put the hood on the car. Thank god I had a bunch of extra hardware laying around, because this $1700 hood doesn't come with the proper hardware. Factory hood comes with studs, this comes with the shit they bolted it to the shipping material with. Which does not fit the stock hood brackets. And of course, by "perfect factory fitment," they mean it looks like this:




There's a huge gap on the passenger side, no room on the driver side. OK, it's an aftermarket hood, I'll ask them. PDC says oh, you're using the hood strut, it's pushing it up. Took the strut out, nothing. PDC suggests I buy their aftermarket strut, I laugh and start writing this post.
They then suggest I use the factory hood bump stops. Well, guess what! There are no spots for those on the hood either.

Maybe their level 2 hoods are the shit. I don't know. Only way I'd use one is if they send me one for free, because obviously after 15 months I'm not getting any money back. At this point I'm looking at installing some functional vents into a hood I can pick up stateside like Seibon without another 9 month wait. What's another $1,000?

 

[gboticus]

There's a huge gap on the passenger side, no room on the driver side. OK, it's an aftermarket hood, I'll ask them. PDC says oh, you're using the hood strut, it's pushing it up. Took the strut out, nothing. PDC suggests I buy their aftermarket strut, I laugh and start writing this post.
They then suggest I use the factory hood bump stops. Well, guess what! There are no spots for those on the hood either.

My only interaction with PDC was to order a CF steering wheel with a centering line on it. I received the wheel fairly quickly but the centering line was off by about a half an inch. I messaged the owner John, about it and I was gas lit: he said that it's not a functional issue and to just deal with it. Obviously no, this is a centering line and its only purpose is to indicate the center of the wheel, and I sent photos with carpenter squares showing the center line of the wheel across the flat bottom demanding this be replaced. The response was "that's not how we measure it": my jaw hit the floor at that point. What meth were these guys smoking.

I eventually worked out an exchange for one which had no centering line even though it was offered to get me one replaced with it. I do no trust and of their QC and didn't want to suffer looking at a centering line way off center. No chance in hell they'll ever get a penny from me again, and sorry to hear that this is a pathological type of response from them

 

[DerHase]

That guy is a complete moron. FWIW I've asked him before about the hood being vented and there was zero response on Facebook.

Working in body shops for a few years kind of taught me to expect anything aftermarket to fit like ass, but that's just downright terrible. It appears the entire hood is physically warped?

Can you physically push the passenger front corner downwards? Or is it contacting something under the hood?

 

[Treadup]

As DerHase mentioned, can you push the hood down into place? If you’re already out money and it doesn’t sound like you would get a refund, black or carbon hood pins maybe?

 

[scrllock]

That guy is a complete moron. FWIW I've asked him before about the hood being vented and there was zero response on Facebook.

Working in body shops for a few years kind of taught me to expect anything aftermarket to fit like ass, but that's just downright terrible. It appears the entire hood is physically warped?

Can you physically push the passenger front corner downwards? Or is it contacting something under the hood?

As DerHase mentioned, can you push the hood down into place? If you’re already out money and it doesn’t sound like you would get a refund, black or carbon hood pins maybe?

I can push it down a bit, but it's still off-center. We've adjusted it as far as it can go via the hood brackets. Maybe the bump stops would help (CPO's video shows him attaching them to his) but again, mine has no provisions for them.

Hood pins would likely help, and I have a set of quicklatches, but I don't know if there's a great spot to attach them. I've seen hoods using the radiator support brackets, but those deform over time and eventually fail. I saw a guy in Australia who used two spots up on the sides but a) there's a lot of wiring to avoid drilling into and b) I don't think it would pull the hood down enough to help much.

I'll probably end up dremeling the crap out of this thing in an attempt to make it not be total ass, but just looking at it makes me angry at how much time and money I wasted on this crap. We took the Seibon hood off my friend's subaru while swapping the motor last week and we put it back on, didn't adjust it and fitment is 10x better.

 

[dtfd]

That really sucks because I like the design of the PDC hood more than what I've seen from Seibon, but that fitment is terrible.

 

[scrllock]

That really sucks because I like the design of the PDC hood more than what I've seen from Seibon, but that fitment is terrible.

PDC makes it sound like the level 2 fixes all of these issues, but unless they feel like sending me one for free, I don't know why the fuck I'd give them more money for one.


edit: found my hood for $480 on alibaba, lmao.

https://www.alibaba.com/product-det...rlist.normal_offer.d_title.495c7433hFAFET&s=p

I sure AF wouldn't buy one, but if someone wants a shit hood, at least they don't have to spend $1700.

 

[DerHase]

Shipping would for sure kill that deal to some extent, but not $1200+ worth.

 

[scrllock]

Shipping would for sure kill that deal to some extent, but not $1200+ worth.

Got quotes from several other ali sellers, shipping is generally $400 or so.

 

[Acadia18]

That's disappointing, as I thought PDC was one of the few who actually made their own stuff. But shouldn't be surprising.