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Indium Gray Metallic Money Pit Mk7.5R

Superfreak

Autocross Champion
Location
Denver
Car(s)
‘19 M2C, ‘05 Taco
Cool you drove with an Evora, I have yet to drive with one. Care to explain “church hours”? Seems like being mindful of folks’ peace and quiet on a Sunday morning. Very considerate if that‘s the case. Is there a local law or just common courtesy?
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Glad to hear you had a successful first outing with the new setup! How much camber were you at this time around?
~-2.5 front, -1.8 rear.

Cool you drove with an Evora, I have yet to drive with one. Care to explain “church hours”? Seems like being mindful of folks’ peace and quiet on a Sunday morning. Very considerate if that‘s the case. Is there a local law or just common courtesy?
I'd only heard of it at tracks in the South. I assume the county has a noise ordinance that applies during 10am to 12pm sundays. That side of the state is quite religious, so wasn't too surprising. You still have an hour of hot track at 9am and then people have a long lunch to go drive into town past churches and neighborhoods, so I'm not sure if peace and quiet is achieved with such rules.

The Evora is a fantastic car. His is somewhat modified, PFC rotors + pads, Ohlins 2-ways, adjustable toe arms/wishbones, bigger front sway. We put some headers and a titanium exhaust on it, hopefully he'll have the GT430 tune on it by the end of the season.
 

Superfreak

Autocross Champion
Location
Denver
Car(s)
‘19 M2C, ‘05 Taco
~-2.5 front, -1.8 rear.


I'd only heard of it at tracks in the South. I assume the county has a noise ordinance that applies during 10am to 12pm sundays. That side of the state is quite religious, so wasn't too surprising. You still have an hour of hot track at 9am and then people have a long lunch to go drive into town past churches and neighborhoods, so I'm not sure if peace and quiet is achieved with such rules.

The Evora is a fantastic car. His is somewhat modified, PFC rotors + pads, Ohlins 2-ways, adjustable toe arms/wishbones, bigger front sway. We put some headers and a titanium exhaust on it, hopefully he'll have the GT430 tune on it by the end of the season.
Good to have quiet hours, that’s pretty cool even if it’s difficult to enforce. No matter what religion, good to try not to disturb others’ peace and quiet.

Upgraded Lotus…Man that’s awesome. Lotus are a special breed that I just haven’t made time for. Thanks for the insight and I hope to get some exposure to Lotus sometime. Always good to hear about your car. Glad it seems pretty well sorted and hope it gets better and better.
 

q74

Go Kart Newbie
Car(s)
R
At one point I got black-flagged, I was worried that I'd smoke-screened someone at T11, turns out a corner worker thought I was taking a selfie with my phone outside the window. Nope, just giving a Corvette a point by. Wtf.

Wut? How? Was this a turn signal mainly group? More to point, it must of happened at least once in past to have someone consider it, lmao.

Switchleg's patch to fully disable ASR, game-changer. Steven's tune did great, of course.

ASR?
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Wut? How? Was this a turn signal mainly group? More to point, it must of happened at least once in past to have someone consider it, lmao.



ASR?
yes, everyone must get a point-by to pass. I'm sure it happens regularly, especially with passengers. I am not stupid enough to be using my phone while driving, however.



ASR = anti-slip regulation. it's the torque-reduction component of traction control, which is in turn composed of fast and slow path intervention (fast = timing pull/spark cut, slow = less boost/throttle). ESC is the other portion, which controls wheel speed reduction via brakes.
Normally on an R, a single press of the ESC button puts it into ESC sport, which doesn't fully disable ASR functions (nor does a long-press/esc off). The rough road/starting vibration reduction coding supposedly helps with this, but doesn't seem to be very effective on Mk7.5s. It required an ECU patch to fully disable, which is freely available now.
 

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Brian_

Go Kart Champion
Location
TX
Car(s)
MK7.5 R
I'm not sure about the feel on the RB rotors, I might buy some cheap centric high carbon discs just to test (RB specifically says not to use Ferodo/Carbotech).
Any specific reasons they give? Carbotech was high on my list for pads after I finish of my current Hawk DTCs.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Any specific reasons they give? Carbotech was high on my list for pads after I finish of my current Hawk DTCs.
https://racingbrake.com/racing-pad-selection-and-brake-pad-deposit/

Since our disc material is has a higher hardness level than OE or other manufacturers' rotors, the same racing pads (brands such as Carbotech or Ferodo) that may have worked great on your original rotors may not work well on our rotors. These pads, commonly used by weekend racers, are affordable but are often not aggressive enough to be used with our rotors. Using these types of pads on RB rotors may result in pad deposit at high temperatures, and/or an unsatisfactory "bite" on the rotor at low temperatures.

I think there was some years-old drama about certain pads on a corvette forum that brought about this FAQ.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Any specific reasons they give? Carbotech was high on my list for pads after I finish of my current Hawk DTCs.
And after running them for a few more days on the street (they're definitely bedded in after a day of lapping) the deposits are awful. Gonna look for my original rotors and swap these out (they were great with the ds2500).

1684419957360.png


Bit the bullet and put the vorshlag plates in. I think this is the correct orientation? The arrow by "LF" is pointing to the front of the car.

1684420393866.png


For what it's worth, the official torque specs for the tower nuts and caster screws are 18 ft-lbs and the strut nut is 5-6 ugga-duggas.

(No, I'm not joking)





1684420519809.png


Leaving them roughly centered for now til I'm done with all the other nonsense and get it re-aligned. Not sure I want to open up the towers just yet.

I had to raise the springs (lowering the chassis) by a decent amount to get proper preload with the Vorshlag perch. I think this is normal from what I read about these mounts eating up travel?

Anyway, these whiteline balljoints are finally where they belong.

1684421489658.png
 
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MonkeyMD

Autocross Champion
Haven't had any issues with Carbotech pads. Also keep them on all the time, so no issue with different pads & having to resurface
 

manu97

Autocross Champion
Location
Chicago
Car(s)
MK7 R
And after running them for a few more days on the street (they're definitely bedded in after a day of lapping) the deposits are awful. Gonna look for my original rotors and swap these out (they were great with the ds2500).

View attachment 281144

Bit the bullet and put the vorshlag plates in. I think this is the correct orientation? The arrow by "LF" is pointing to the front of the car.

View attachment 281145

For what it's worth, the official torque specs for the tower nuts and caster screws are 18 ft-lbs and the strut nut is 5-6 ugga-duggas.

(No, I'm not joking)





View attachment 281147

Leaving them roughly centered for now til I'm done with all the other nonsense and get it re-aligned. Not sure I want to open up the towers just yet.

I had to raise the springs (lowering the chassis) by a decent amount to get proper preload with the Vorshlag perch. I think this is normal from what I read about these mounts eating up travel?

Anyway, these whiteline balljoints are finally where they belong.

View attachment 281151
Per Vorshlag - you shouldn't need to trim the tower if you're using a bottom adjustable coilover (which the Ohlins are (i think?)). They also offered to provide spacers so the strut nut is lowered to a point where you don't need to open the strut tower.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Haven't had any issues with Carbotech pads. Also keep them on all the time, so no issue with different pads & having to resurface
Are you using Racingbrake rotors? This issue is supposedly due to that particular disc/pad combo.

Per Vorshlag - you shouldn't need to trim the tower if you're using a bottom adjustable coilover (which the Ohlins are (i think?)). They also offered to provide spacers so the strut nut is lowered to a point where you don't need to open the strut tower.
Yeah, that's a big reason I went with Ohlins. I just want to make sure I can re-snug it down if it's noisy.
 

manu97

Autocross Champion
Location
Chicago
Car(s)
MK7 R
Are you using Racingbrake rotors? This issue is supposedly due to that particular disc/pad combo.


Yeah, that's a big reason I went with Ohlins. I just want to make sure I can re-snug it down if it's noisy.
ah, that makes sense. may be stupid, but would a blue loctite be a good idea to prevent it from backing out/loosening? feels like it wouldn't be that big a problem because the torque spec is so...generous...
 

MonkeyMD

Autocross Champion
Are you using Racingbrake rotors? This issue is supposedly due to that particular disc/pad combo.


Yeah, that's a big reason I went with Ohlins. I just want to make sure I can re-snug it down if it's noisy.
Gotcha. No. Still on the Stoptech rotors whatever they use.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
Got the plate and joint in on the right side, the powerflex black bushings are so stiff that I had to unbolt the rear bushing to get the arm to lower enough. Unfortunately while getting it back in, noticed that it was damaged (again).

1684544545649.png1684544566434.png

Threw my old stock arm back in for now, which is also comically easier to get the ball joint into. I've got a set of RS3 bushings I'll have pressed in instead, I'm thinking poly is just a poor choice for a joint that rotates like that. Also the aluminum subframe rubs on them in a spot that the OE bushings lack material, so that probably contributed as well.
 

scrllock

Autocross Champion
Location
MI
PXL_20230613_181047712.jpg


Went to RS3 bushings, stock balljoints, vorshlag plates, and superpro bushings in the rear lower camber arm and knuckle. Added about a degree of caster on the +caster setting, evened out camber a bit.

Fairly pleased, plates add a slight amount of road feedback but less with the RS3 rubber pieces. Hoping I don't need to re-torque the vorshlag nut, would require dropping the strut or cutting the tower at this point.


Was offered a couple parts sponsorships for brakes and injectors. Not sure either will be something I'd recommend but excited to try some new stuff soon.
 
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