sloopercat
Go Kart Newbie
- Location
- Knoxville
My bad, did not recognize the model designation. Never mind.......
My bad, did not recognize the model designation. Never mind.......
Because the engine bay is getting plenty of cooling through the grill and radiator. This small duct can't possibly be integral to engine cooling. My hypothesis is that it's just to keep the intake from getting blocked up (snow) so that it can pass through and still allow airflow to the intake.Sort of, still question why anyone would add the blanking plate to cut off air flow that is designed to cool the engine bay. See this sort of thing in the GTI mod posts as well. I don’t think any ram air increase would offset the increase in under hood temps.
Sort of, still question why anyone would add the blanking plate to cut off air flow that is designed to cool the engine bay. See this sort of thing in the GTI mod posts as well. I don’t think any ram air increase would offset the increase in under hood temps.
Part 5 of 5
Results
A cleaner engine bay for starters, by blocking off the left rear opening! Also having done various long drives over roads I know well, I can report the following:-
The turbo spools up much sooner & quicker & is quieter! Mainly because it can suck in more air, which is colder, it is not “straining” to pull the air in, so the noise is less & no “rasp” when high in the rev range! The whole engine response is smoother, quicker, more linear, less “lag”. I love it & it could have been like this from the factory!
Conclusions
The fact that the “B” version is all that is now made, & fitted to everything from a 1lt to the 2lt “R”, proves that VAG consider the airflow “adequate” for all climatic conditions & power outputs. The rear left blanking plate can still be fitted to the “B” version to meet the PR codes for “tropical zones” & “high water countries”, however the front right blanking plate cannot easily retro-fitted to the “C” version. So if you have a crash & have the “C” setup from factory how does the dealer/body shop refit exactly when the part is no longer made & has been superseded by part (B) which has no holes on the front right side?
What is strange is that the VAG engineers in the first place decided to make the “C” version & the front right plate “A” to let more air in & to do so without letting more water in. So there is sound engineering behind doing this mod & letting more air in via the front right side. Just VAG bean counters got in the way again & obviously asked the engineers if the “B” part will do to for all cars to cut the cost of having to make the “C” version & the front plate “A”.
Great stuff here! Looking to replicate your GTE air mods. How many holes are drilled in the third chamber (far right, from the front) of the blocked off portion? Your pics don't really show it well. Looks like maybe 2 or 3? I'm trying to match the unobtanium OEM part as closely as possible.Part 3 of 5
Fitting
First you have to remove the whole air duct itself. There are 4 TX star screws to remove which are all visible on the top, two each side. Two are for the top “lid” the other two are for the actual main duct. Best to remove the two for the lid & undo the “tab” at top centre rear. The lid hinges at the front only a small amount, then pull forwards as at the front of the lid there are locating tags which slide into the duct. To remove the duct/air guide you have to lock in the release position the metal band around the pipe work to the air duct & pull the pipe work off. Then the duct needs to be pressed downwards from the screw positions where it has two tabs. It is best to move the duct to the right to lift the left side up, & thus the rest of the duct.
The rear left blanking plate:-
If your part “B” has exiting screw holes for this rear blanking plate, you can skip this bit, if not read on! Clean the area where the rear blanking plate will fit, & then press fit the blanking plate into position. Now using a sharp pointed nail, bradawl etc., mark on the duct the positions of the screw holes in the two tabs. Remember to hold the plate firmly in the correct position whilst doing this to be 100% accurate! Then using a 2mm or 3mm drill bit (for metal) carefully drill the holes, then repeat with a 4.5mm or 5mm max drill bit. I used a 4.5mm & allowed it to spin slowly to clean cut the edges. Trim with a sharp knife any plastic burrs. Fit the blanking plate & the two screws. Use some oil on the screws & go slowly as you have to cut the threads in the plastic “block” with the screws.
Great stuff here! Looking to replicate your GTE air mods. How many holes are drilled in the third chamber (far right, from the front) of the blocked off portion? Your pics don't really show it well. Looks like maybe 2 or 3? I'm trying to match the unobtanium OEM part as closely as possible.These parts are from the GTE.....this is a hybrid car which as I stated has the same 1.4lt petrol engine as mine..but it also has a hybrid electric drive unit also shoehorned into the engine bay...
The all electric MK7 Golf is called e-Golf...