GOLFMK8
GOLFMK7
GOLFMK6
GOLFMKV

How to retro-fit skid trays, aerodynamic under trays, & stone guards to a MK7 Golf

Daner

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Stockholm

anotero

Autocross Champion
Location
Hither and thither
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
I've been meaning to ask this for a while: I got the aero tray without a rear grille. My oil temps usually hover around 104 degC on extended drives. Is that fine? I may make a few small holes in the aero tray around where the sump is.
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
I've been meaning to ask this for a while: I got the aero tray without a rear grille. My oil temps usually hover around 104 degC on extended drives. Is that fine? I may make a few small holes in the aero tray around where the sump is.

104C is ok for hot trips....when it goes over 110C & holds... thats when you need to think about more holes...or the GTE aero tray
 

Daner

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Stockholm
I've been meaning to ask this for a while: I got the aero tray without a rear grille. My oil temps usually hover around 104 degC on extended drives. Is that fine? I may make a few small holes in the aero tray around where the sump is.

My car has the skid tray with the duct (1.4l 150hp 6-speed). Average highway oil temps are in the mid-90sC (Swedish winter) / high-90sC (Swedish summer). I have yet to see higher than 103C in over 71000km.
 

southpawboston

Drag Racing Champion
Location
Somerville, MA
I've been meaning to ask this for a while: I got the aero tray without a rear grille. My oil temps usually hover around 104 degC on extended drives. Is that fine? I may make a few small holes in the aero tray around where the sump is.

My car has the skid tray with the duct (1.4l 150hp 6-speed). Average highway oil temps are in the mid-90sC (Swedish winter) / high-90sC (Swedish summer). I have yet to see higher than 103C in over 71000km.

I've been meaning to ask this for a while: I got the aero tray without a rear grille. My oil temps usually hover around 104 degC on extended drives. Is that fine? I may make a few small holes in the aero tray around where the sump is.

Guys, I think it's important to recognize different motors here... it's perfectly normal for the US/Canadian market 1.8TSI and 2.0TSI (our only motor options until 2019 when they replaced the 1.8TSI with the 1.4TSI in non-GTI and non-4-motion models) to reach 107C regardless of weather. My 1.8TSI used to hover around 103C before adding the aero tray (with ducts) + front exhaust tunnel cover, it now has gone up to a max of 107C (on the highway pullign a trailer through mountainous areas) but usually hovers around 104C. This is perfectly acceptable with full synthetic oil. Most of the racing forums and the more techie oil forums (see bobistheoilguy.com for example) all share the consensus that full synth oil can survive sustained 115C temps with no ill effects.

Personally, I like seeing my oil reach 107C for long highway runs because so much of my driving is from cold starts, going 1-2 miles around town on errands, which is the WORST thing for oil since moisture develops inside the bloc and mixes with the oil. Getting the oil above 100C for extended intervals likely rids any moisture building in the oil.
 

anotero

Autocross Champion
Location
Hither and thither
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
104C is ok for hot trips....when it goes over 110C & holds... thats when you need to think about more holes...or the GTE aero tray

The only time i had temps go over 110 was on a pretty warm drive to Nevada when going uphill for miles on end. I just dropped my speed by about 5mph and the temp stopped rising.
 

anotero

Autocross Champion
Location
Hither and thither
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
My car has the skid tray with the duct (1.4l 150hp 6-speed). Average highway oil temps are in the mid-90sC (Swedish winter) / high-90sC (Swedish summer). I have yet to see higher than 103C in over 71000km.

I live in Southern California, in a desert. It's a tad bit warmer here than in Sweden. :)
 

anotero

Autocross Champion
Location
Hither and thither
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
Guys, I think it's important to recognize different motors here... it's perfectly normal for the US/Canadian market 1.8TSI and 2.0TSI (our only motor options until 2019 when they replaced the 1.8TSI with the 1.4TSI in non-GTI and non-4-motion models) to reach 107C regardless of weather. My 1.8TSI used to hover around 103C before adding the aero tray (with ducts) + front exhaust tunnel cover, it now has gone up to a max of 107C (on the highway pullign a trailer through mountainous areas) but usually hovers around 104C. This is perfectly acceptable with full synthetic oil. Most of the racing forums and the more techie oil forums (see bobistheoilguy.com for example) all share the consensus that full synth oil can survive sustained 115C temps with no ill effects.

Personally, I like seeing my oil reach 107C for long highway runs because so much of my driving is from cold starts, going 1-2 miles around town on errands, which is the WORST thing for oil since moisture develops inside the bloc and mixes with the oil. Getting the oil above 100C for extended intervals likely rids any moisture building in the oil.

Very interesting. I'll keeps this in mind.
I wonder if my oil temps will go down a little once i install a turbo blanket, which should help contain turbo heat.
 

Daner

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Stockholm
I live in Southern California, in a desert. It's a tad bit warmer here than in Sweden. :)
I grew up in the San Joaquin valley and got my degree at Loma Linda University. I managed to get back to California 3x during 2019 and experienced at least one >100F day while we were there in July. That a good job of reminding me why I stayed in school to get out of the construction business!

Back to the subject at hand - I was just providing a reference point, and I certainly didn't mean to imply that oil temps over 100C are bad. Quite the contrary! I would rather that the engine in my car was running 100-105C when fully operational year-round, to regularly vaporize any condensation or other water that might make its way into the lubrication system.
 

Milano5to9

New member
Location
Prague
Hi Golfdave, and thank you for the DIY manuals. I have installed the Passat cover and dynamic damper to my G7 2.0tdi estate and now I want to retro-fit the rear exhaust tunnel cover.

I have got multilink versions 5Q0825206C and 5Q0825206M (they are almost same). Problem is that they both seem to be shorter than is necessary (3-5cm) and because of that I am not able to install them properly. Any idea what is wrong? Is there any longer variant? Thanks.
 

Attachments

  • AE11D3D4-BDBE-4681-8451-29657DC76704.jpeg
    AE11D3D4-BDBE-4681-8451-29657DC76704.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 457
  • 64B87671-758F-4A38-A141-B7EB034C800C.jpeg
    64B87671-758F-4A38-A141-B7EB034C800C.jpeg
    578 KB · Views: 424
Last edited:

anotero

Autocross Champion
Location
Hither and thither
Car(s)
Mk7 GTI
I grew up in the San Joaquin valley and got my degree at Loma Linda University. I managed to get back to California 3x during 2019 and experienced at least one >100F day while we were there in July. That a good job of reminding me why I stayed in school to get out of the construction business!

Back to the subject at hand - I was just providing a reference point, and I certainly didn't mean to imply that oil temps over 100C are bad. Quite the contrary! I would rather that the engine in my car was running 100-105C when fully operational year-round, to regularly vaporize any condensation or other water that might make its way into the lubrication system.

Oh boy, how did you end up all the way in Sweden? I heard it's very difficult to settle in Scandinavia.
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
Hi Golfdave, and thank you for the DIY manuals. I have installed the Passat cover and dynamic damper to my G7 2.0tdi estate and now I want to retro-fit the rear exhaust tunnel cover.

I have got multilink versions 5Q0825206C and 5Q0825206M (they are almost same). Problem is that they both seem to be shorter than is necessary (3-5cm) and because of that I am not able to install them properly. Any idea what is wrong? Is there any longer variant? Thanks.

I have answered your PM..& to reiterate to those here, I have had others contact me stating the parts people (in another country) are saying that "M" is the newest version...

All WRONG!!…"K" is the correct version, always has been & is still "current"....just parts people don't know ETKA!...
 

Imteyaz

New member
Location
UK
Car(s)
VW Golf 7.5R 2018.
I have to agree with Dave, been there with exactly the same issue myself.... I too was told that the M part superseded the K part and it was too short when I went to fit it. I went back to the TPS (supplier to dealerships for VAG parts) and suddenly ETKA was showing the K part as the correct one. I can confirm that the K part fits perfectly.

Don't let them tell you otherwise and stick to the part numbers listed by Dave.

2019-12-22 12.06.03.jpg


The 'M' part shown above ?
 

bruce0293

New member
Location
Mercer PA
Hello, and my first post. I have been reading this aero thread, and joined today to reply to the aftermarket oil pan and the aero/skid tray question from post 491. I have an iABED oil pan purchased through ECS, that came in a box from Moroso. QUALITY part with a psuedo small windage tray, and it is both baffled and has trap doors. If I remember right it takes about 7.5 quarts.

I have decided I want to add aero under my Golf R, and have a scratch and dent ESC tray (minus their added support brackets) and the vw aero full pan on order, however after reading all this great information I am torn as to returning the aforementioned parts and getting the VW skid tray kit through ESC to keep my expensive pan in tact. The iABED (Moroso) pan is flat on the bottom unlike the factory pan, however I think it depth is the same so all of the aero or skid trays ought to fit? I'll know soon one way or the other.

I ordered the VW long tunnel pan, thinking that the ECS full length may cover up too much of the tunnel with it having both the drive shaft and HOT cat running APR stage 2 tuning. I may need to modify it somewhat at the rear mount location, or cut it off slightly and make my own rear mount. I'd like to perhaps come up with something to smooth out air near the rear carrier and/or carrier to rear valance.

Question: has anyone made and or used a functional diffuser that actually reduces drag? I considered the VERUUS (sp?) but the curved up rear section may add down force, but not sure it will do anything for drag reduction???

my two cents and hoping I didn't get off topic too much?
Bruce

PS: thank you golfdave !!!
 
Top