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How to retro-fit a bigger capacity battery to a Mk7 Golf

sicario

New member
Location
UK
Car(s)
Golf GT 1.5 TSI DSG
Yes, sorry I should have expanded.

Halfords did plug into the OBD, but when I checked after I got in to clear the CEL, it was still showing EFB.

I then registered it as the correct type (AFB), amp hours, and entered new MF/Serial. I just have a Carista OBD interface, but it writes the four pieces of requisite information from the OP.

I was changing the battery due to my alarm constantly going off. First port of call was the VW dealer who wanted £500 to replace the alarm siren. Two garages said the battery is okay, but that was after a 20 minute drive there - when measuring after a day of inactivity it was at 12.0V, and the acid indicator was yellow. Assume they just checked voltage rather than load test it, car is 4 years old, I bought it at 2 with only 10k on the odo so it didn’t drive much initially.

I didn’t have the tools to replace the battery myself, or dispose of it. My town doesn’t have many garages, outside of the VW dealer it’s an hours drive to the next specialist with 2/5 reviews online. A week of stress and fractious sleep over the alarm, I just needed it done. Wouldn’t have time in the week.

Since changing the battery the alarms quiet, I was just looking for some input on the CEL and error codes in case someone had come across it before in the past?
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
Yes, sorry I should have expanded.

Halfords did plug into the OBD, but when I checked after I got in to clear the CEL, it was still showing EFB.

I then registered it as the correct type (AFB), amp hours, and entered new MF/Serial. I just have a Carista OBD interface, but it writes the four pieces of requisite information from the OP.

I was changing the battery due to my alarm constantly going off. First port of call was the VW dealer who wanted £500 to replace the alarm siren. Two garages said the battery is okay, but that was after a 20 minute drive there - when measuring after a day of inactivity it was at 12.0V, and the acid indicator was yellow. Assume they just checked voltage rather than load test it, car is 4 years old, I bought it at 2 with only 10k on the odo so it didn’t drive much initially.

I didn’t have the tools to replace the battery myself, or dispose of it. My town doesn’t have many garages, outside of the VW dealer it’s an hours drive to the next specialist with 2/5 reviews online. A week of stress and fractious sleep over the alarm, I just needed it done. Wouldn’t have time in the week.

Since changing the battery the alarms quiet, I was just looking for some input on the CEL and error codes in case someone had come across it before in the past?

If you fitted an AGM battery it should be stated as a "Fleece" construction ......

without a full car scan using either OBD11 pro or VCDS we are all just guessing..

In The UK there is a the Briskoda forum some of whose members have VCDS & are on a map..will do VCDS for beer tokens type of thing here:-

VCDS owners MAP - Diagnostics & VCDS - BRISKODA

VCDS owners map – Google My Maps
 

sicario

New member
Location
UK
Car(s)
Golf GT 1.5 TSI DSG
I had two options under battery for AGM or Binary AGM. On some other forums it mentions Fleece being equivalent to AGM for ECU purposes and Binary as a separate type.

One post from the rosstech forum says the same VAG code cleared after some time, so hoping it will resolve over a 2.5 hr drive tomorrow, if not I’ll pull the full diagnostic from the OBD.

Guessing the battery had just been sat on the shelf for a while so voltage is reading under expected for ‘new’? Reading 12.4 after three short trips.

Thanks for your help.
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
I had two options under battery for AGM or Binary AGM. On some other forums it mentions Fleece being equivalent to AGM for ECU purposes and Binary as a separate type.

One post from the rosstech forum says the same VAG code cleared after some time, so hoping it will resolve over a 2.5 hr drive tomorrow, if not I’ll pull the full diagnostic from the OBD.

Guessing the battery had just been sat on the shelf for a while so voltage is reading under expected for ‘new’? Reading 12.4 after three short trips.

Thanks for your help.

Fleece is the correct type of AGM..Binary was thought to the correct one (back in2015) but its not as its a different type of battery & all the VW cars with factory fitted AGM batteries are coded as fleece at factory...

From the first post in this thread:-

When you click on "Battery technology" (using VCDS 21.3.0) a drop down list appears with the following options (= actual meaning):-
Wet = Standard Lead Acid
Fleece = Standard A.G.M.
Wickel6V
Wickel12V
Ultracap
Gel = Standard Gel Lead Acid
Lithium ions = Standard LiFePO4
EFB = Standard E.F.B.
Binary - AGM = "Bipolar" A.G.M. type
EFB+ = E.F.B. "Plus" type
Not_assigned_10
Not_assigned_11
Not_assigned_12
Not_assigned_13
Not_assigned_14
Unknown
 

sicario

New member
Location
UK
Car(s)
Golf GT 1.5 TSI DSG
Yes, I had Wet, EFB, AGM, Binary AGM.

It’s set to AGM.

update: still on, if I clear it with engine on then it will stay off until a restart. Also if I clear the low voltage code before polling the engine ECU it shows no fault.

Taking it into Halfords auto centre, they want £50 for a diagnostic which can be waived if it’s due to the battery. I’m sure they’ll try to convince me it isn’t, but we’ll see….

Only thing I can really find is potentially a damaged fuse/relay. Full scan from the Carista isn’t much help:


Code:
Engine
Part #: 05E906018A
Component: R4 1.5l TFS
Software version: 6019
ASAM/ODX identifier: EV_ECM15TFS01105E906018A
Coding: 012500722364050820000000000000000000000000000000 (hex)
Fault codes:
17262 Manufacturer-specific code
 
Last edited:

sicario

New member
Location
UK
Car(s)
Golf GT 1.5 TSI DSG
All sorted, just in case it helps anyone:

After Halfords replaced my 027 EFB with 027 AGM, I had a persistent check engine light. After clearing, it would reappear when the engine was turned off and on again. Everything was working as normal, including start/stop, and my consumption was ~5% lower than pre-swap.

Polling OBD showed two faults, one under CAN: P0562 relating to low voltage (under 10v) and one under engine ECU as VAG code 17262.

Garage said that relay 30 was short circuited during the battery swap. The tech was super busy so didn’t explain how to fix, but presume they tinkered with wiring or replaced a fuse somewhere. Took all of 20 minutes.
 

quailallstar

WOB DJ496
Location
Florida & our Nation's Capital
Car(s)
MY19 MK7.5 GTI Bunny
Thanks Golfdave for the write up on this. I put in this huge H6 AGM Duracell 760cca/70a today, on vcds recoded to 70ah, fleece, and added a digit to the serial. I kept the old cover on (one inch gap on ecu side) and also added the larger411h cover so it has double insulation. I like a challenge ha.

I had to really work to make this fit with the APR open intake and I even have a positive wire going to the trunk for amplifier.

Here’s a picture to show the tight fit.

Is this the same H6 AGM Duracell battery you installed? I can tell my battery is soon going to take a crap, and I am beginning to shop around for a larger replacement. I have a NAR 2019 GTI (November 24, 2018 build date) with its original battery.

https://www.samsclub.com/p/auto-group-48-h6-agm-36-mo-free/prod9510085?xid=plp_product_6


 

itzsleepy

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NYC
Has anyone in here install an Antigravity H5-30-R5 battery with any issues? I changed the ah to 30, named it ant, serial number 1111133333 and switched to lit-ion on the options, coding was accepted. My car on low RPM will spike to 20-22 volts cause the car to shut off and 1 second later everything turns back on and the battery goes back to 14.1ish volts until i shut it off and restart the car. Any insight would be helpful.
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
Has anyone in here install an Antigravity H5-30-R5 battery with any issues? I changed the ah to 30, named it ant, serial number 1111133333 and switched to lit-ion on the options, coding was accepted. My car on low RPM will spike to 20-22 volts cause the car to shut off and 1 second later everything turns back on and the battery goes back to 14.1ish volts until i shut it off and restart the car. Any insight would be helpful.

I'd double check the coding just to make certain.

I think maybe the voltage regulator (part of the alternator) is on the fritz???....Battery if all ok can't spike the voltage....
 

itzsleepy

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NYC
I'd double check the coding just to make certain.

I think maybe the voltage regulator (part of the alternator) is on the fritz???....Battery if all ok can't spike the voltage....
I was thinking it was my alternator too but when the stock battery goes back in, everything works as normal. I am going to double check the settings again.
 

ebolamonkey

New member
Location
USA
Black fabric absorbs heat & does not reflect it away....basic thermal dynamics..

To reflect radiant heat from the engine away from the battery you need to wrap the battery in a shiny metal foil...DEI do plenty for this purpose & all well proven.



You may also get loads more road spray etc in also wind lift as more air under the bonnet which could cause that edge of the bonnet to ripple...

Just get a DEI battery blanket/wrap
I used some Frost King Foil backed Fiberglass wrap (link: Lowes. ~$8USD - July 2022) to wrap my Injen cold air intake and airbox.

Going to use rest of the Frost King Fiberglass to make a battery insulation and some heat tape to make a battery wrap for my 48H6 AutoCraft Gold Battery (730CCA) (link: Advance Auto Parts).

DEI version I think is just very thin foam and the Aluminum backing. Frost King is 1" thick Fiberglass. Wear gloves, face mask, and wash your hands afterwards when handling Fiberglass.
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
I used some Frost King Foil backed Fiberglass wrap (link: Lowes. ~$8USD - July 2022) to wrap my Injen cold air intake and airbox.

Going to use rest of the Frost King Fiberglass to make a battery insulation and some heat tape to make a battery wrap for my 48H6 AutoCraft Gold Battery (730CCA) (link: Advance Auto Parts).

DEI version I think is just very thin foam and the Aluminum backing. Frost King is 1" thick Fiberglass. Wear gloves, face mask, and wash your hands afterwards when handling Fiberglass.

I prefer to keep thick fibreglass in places that don't move, eg building walls, roof voids....The DEI stuff that I used is well proven stuff designed for engine bays & the fluids/oils that it can come in contact with...(other similar brands/products available)..
 

golfdave

Autocross Champion
Location
Scotland (U.K.)
Car(s)
Mk7 Golf GT Estate
Hola.

Can you explain the conection of the charger when you are to going to codificate or scan for long time to prevent the discharge of battery ?

+ positive of the charger to the positive of the battery

- negative of the charger to the metal ground, earth fitting (also called the bayonet fitting) on the bulkhead behind the battery.
 
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