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How to: Make a mk7 6MT Suck Less

James740

New member
Location
Northbridge '
Car(s)
17' MK7 6SP M/T
3) Clutch Delay-Valve Removal.
The most popular of the DIY MT mods, as well as being one of the first. The OEM "Bleeder Block" houses a small, greenish-yellow restricting ring that slows the amount of DOT-4 Fluid that can pass through at once. This restriction was put in place to delay the engagement (and diseng.) of the clutch. The original VAG purpose behind such a design is to slow down the clutch feeling in a way that is complimentary to drivers that are sloppy with engagement/disengagement (but becomes a hindrance when attempting fast, precise upshifts). Removing this restriction also removes the forceful "slipping" of the clutch in order to shift smoothly. The engagement point becomes much more pronounced as well. When you replace the stock clutch, it is highly recommended that this piece is removed if the bleeder block is not upgraded.

Instructions can be found here: http://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/12185-tutorial-clutch-delay-valve-removal-manual-cars/

NOTE: Those advanced with power tools have actually drilled out the stock bleeder block in a way that opens up the channel for clutch fluid to pass through. This is a DIY option for the ECS Tuning Clutch Bleeder Block but I do not recommend such a mod.


6) Engine, Transmission and Dogbone Mounts
People sometimes forget that there are three mounts that work in conjunction in holding our engine and consequent assembly to both the transmission and bay. All can very quickly become soft, wiggly and ridden with excessive play. The two mounts that have the most impact on 6MT performance would be the transmission and dogbone mounts. Now, figuring out which one to go with is a little bit of a hassle, as you must first ask yourself what the goals for the car are. Harder, aluminum-based mounts will create a planted (to say the least) feeling in your forks. This is at the expense of NVH/vibrations in some cases. However, there are many options for aftermarket mounts that simply up the durometer of the rubber/poly (hardness-*ish) by a slight degree. Going this route will help keep gears from wriggling around on you as much, IE, a more stable feeling in the shift-forks. They can also help in reducing the dreaded 'wheel-hop' of higher HP FWD cars. Upgrades can be made to one or all three of the mounts to help plant and stabilize the feeling of gears, bay sway and FWD hop.


Link to a popular OEM+ style option that ups the durometer but sticks with a rubber/poly material (034 density line):
https://store.034motorsport.com/mot...a3-s3-tt-tts-mkvii-volkswagen-golf-gti-r.html

Link to a very popular dogbone mount made of aluminum:
https://store.034motorsport.com/mqb...golf-gti-r-8v-audi-a3-s3-billet-aluminum.html

Link to a "dismiss the GF's whining about NVH, I wanna racecar mount. Will prevent majority of tranny/engine sway:
https://store.blackforestindustries.com/bfimk7mqbst2.html

Word of caution: If you upgrade your stock dogbone/ torque arm insert to a stiffer aftermarket design and forget about it for 10s of thousands of miles, more than likely the added stress onto the other two mounts has accelerated the wear of the OEM material.

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some good ideas on this thread, i did the bleeder delay delete when i had my stage 2 clutch installed, as well as the 034 dog bone mount. I agree with both
 

Ridebjj

Go Kart Champion
Location
lasVegas
Just wanted to share, I changed the stock gear oil to Motul 300 and what a BIG difference it made. The car is much smoother (even seems faster), alot less chatter from the SMF, and even in the cold it shifts into gear butter smooth. I should of done this along time ago.
I mostly agree with this, except I found the first shift into reverse to back out of the garage in the morning can be a bit difficult if car not really warmed up. Forward gears when cold are smooth, though seem notchier (which I kind of like) than with stock oil.
 

AndoFNchak

New member
Location
Charleston
I removed the clutch assist spring last weekend but didn't notice much, if any, of a difference. This weekend I removed the bleeder block delay valve and holy crap what a difference. Completely new drive.

Here's the thing I ran into though. After deleting the valve, bleeding the line and putting it all back together, when I tried starting her, she wouldn't start and threw and EPC code at me. After a thorough panicking,, I re-bleed the clutch, put it back together and pulled the positive off the battery. After that she started no problem. I'm curious if anyone had that issue before if they possibly knew why I got the code? Could I have not bleed the clutch well the first time?
 

OldVWFan

Go Kart Newbie
Location
NW Arkansas
Car(s)
17 GTI Sport
Also, just removed the clutch assist spring after several years of ownership. Haven't driven the car yet so we shall see I the hype about removal is correct. Didn't really have a problem with it in, but it was something to do while it rains. Just get use to it as I have done for over 45 years of driving different manuals.
 

JL33T

New member
Location
Ny
I had a Boomba adapter installed but took it off because shifting into 2nd during hard driving would feel like it would crunch into gear. Once off it would shift fine into 2nd. Can this be an alignment issue? Just came across the diy on how to do that so I may put the Boomba back on and do the alignment. Anyone have a similar experience?
 

Gptuners

Go Kart Champion
Location
KY
Car(s)
2019 GTI S
I just re-synced the shifter and it made a huge difference. My 1-2 shift feels less crunchy now.
 

Benihana

Ready to race!
Location
Socal
I had a Boomba adapter installed but took it off because shifting into 2nd during hard driving would feel like it would crunch into gear. Once off it would shift fine into 2nd. Can this be an alignment issue? Just came across the diy on how to do that so I may put the Boomba back on and do the alignment. Anyone have a similar experience?
Had that exact issue, felt like gear lockout to me. Switched to a DieselGeek shifter and it's world's better!
 

yirayira

Go Kart Newbie
Location
Lancaster, PA
I had a Boomba adapter installed but took it off because shifting into 2nd during hard driving would feel like it would crunch into gear. Once off it would shift fine into 2nd. Can this be an alignment issue? Just came across the diy on how to do that so I may put the Boomba back on and do the alignment. Anyone have a similar experience?
Had that exact issue, felt like gear lockout to me. Switched to a DieselGeek shifter and it's world's better!
Did either of you realign the shifter cables after install?
 
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