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How to: Make a mk7 6MT Suck Less

24kbuttplug

New member
Location
Richmond
Car(s)
Mk7.5 GTI
Ever since I bought my mk7 I have been in love. I am not new to MT VW's, or MT 2.0 TSI engines for that matter, but there was something about this 6MT that really seemed "off" in it's stock configuration. Searching online showed quite a common pattern: it just sucks. Some claim they can live with it, some claim it is buttery smooth, but a lot of enthusiasts will admit there is much to be desired. It is long, rough and blocky with a stock clutch that does not help matters any.

This post is dedicated to new owners of MT mk7s that are searching for free/cheap DIY@home mods that will make a vastly better MT shifting experience. All of these mods can be completed within an hour and are night and day when combined together and compared to the stock feeling the shifts have. I have yet to find a compiled post with all MT-related DIY/cheap part mods that can easily improve the feel of the stock MT set up so here you guys go:

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1) Clutch Assist Spring Removal.
This is the biggest "bang for your time" mod there is for the stock set up. It removes the spring that assists in pulling the pedal to the floor, resulting in a faster rebound and eliminates the "lag" drivers feel when clutching fast.

Original post with instructions here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14745&highlight=Free+6mt+mod
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2) Shift Linkage Alignment/Re-calibration.
This mod re positions/aligns your shift linkage in your MT mk7 (or previous gens). This restores that brand new car/ buttery smooth feel of "popping" or sliding into gears quicker than a quarterback on prom night.


Instructions on install can be found here:
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3) Clutch Delay-Valve Removal.
The most popular of the DIY MT mods, as well as being one of the first. The OEM "Bleeder Block" houses a small, greenish-yellow restricting ring that slows the amount of DOT-4 Fluid that can pass through at once. This restriction was put in place to delay the engagement (and diseng.) of the clutch. The original VAG purpose behind such a design is to slow down the clutch feeling in a way that is complimentary to drivers that are sloppy with engagement/disengagement (but becomes a hindrance when attempting fast, precise upshifts). Removing this restriction also removes the forceful "slipping" of the clutch in order to shift smoothly. The engagement point becomes much more pronounced as well. When you replace the stock clutch, it is highly recommended that this piece is removed if the bleeder block is not upgraded.

Instructions can be found here: http://www.vwroc.com/forums/topic/12185-tutorial-clutch-delay-valve-removal-manual-cars/

NOTE: Those advanced with power tools have actually drilled out the stock bleeder block in a way that opens up the channel for clutch fluid to pass through. This is a DIY option for the ECS Tuning Clutch Bleeder Block but I do not recommend such a mod.
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4) Shifter and Mount Bushings.
Although this mod is not usually considered a popular "DIY," it is quick, easy and cheap. There is also a DIY option for those not wishing to spend 30$ for new bushings. The stock shifter and mount bushings are made of a cheap, flexible material. This material can degrade over time and cause inconsistent, notchy "errs" in the 6MT shifting. One way to check if your bushings are "playing" on the end of the linkage is to remove the stock airbox, locate the bushings that connect to the "arm/cable" which moves the shifter and TWIST them. If there is significant play, it may be time to upgrade your bushings. If you do not wish to upgrade the factory rubber to a harder material or spend the cash, you can use a silicone or similar "hardening gel" to tighten the bushings to the plastic housing and sand it smooth. This will give the same effect. NOTE: There are two main upgrade-able bushings in our 6MT system. The MOUNT bushings and the SHIFTER cable bushings. I find the mount bushings to provide nearly no difference in feel once upgraded. However, the shifter bushings do provide a more connected "drive" into the shift fork. Both can be upgraded for little cost/install time.

Link to popular shifter bushings: https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Driv...-Solution-Shifter-Cable-Bushings-MK7-GTI.html
Link to a DIY version of upgraded bushings:
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5) DIY Clutch-Stop.
The OEM clutch-pedal press is long. Like really long. Like 80s truck long. For kicks I actually measured the pedal's press (in inches) and compared it to my 1984 Ford Pick up 4MT. My attempt at this mod would indicate which one was longer. This easy DIY mod creates a clutch "stop" that simply prevents clutch overtravel. Much like a bolt action rifle's trigger, getting rid of over travel reduces the amount of distance the pedal must travel. This creates a shorter and more distinct pedal press. NOTE: Please be very conservative with the amount of space you add to the clutch stop, as no one really knows the distance in which the TOB stops moving fully (creating accelerated clutch wear).


Installation instructions can be found here: http://www.golfmk7.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24943
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6) Engine, Transmission and Dogbone Mounts
People sometimes forget that there are three mounts that work in conjunction in holding our engine and consequent assembly to both the transmission and bay. All can very quickly become soft, wiggly and ridden with excessive play. The two mounts that have the most impact on 6MT performance would be the transmission and dogbone mounts. Now, figuring out which one to go with is a little bit of a hassle, as you must first ask yourself what the goals for the car are. Harder, aluminum-based mounts will create a planted (to say the least) feeling in your forks. This is at the expense of NVH/vibrations in some cases. However, there are many options for aftermarket mounts that simply up the durometer of the rubber/poly (hardness-*ish) by a slight degree. Going this route will help keep gears from wriggling around on you as much, IE, a more stable feeling in the shift-forks. They can also help in reducing the dreaded 'wheel-hop' of higher HP FWD cars. Upgrades can be made to one or all three of the mounts to help plant and stabilize the feeling of gears, bay sway and FWD hop.


Link to a popular OEM+ style option that ups the durometer but sticks with a rubber/poly material (034 density line):
https://store.034motorsport.com/mot...a3-s3-tt-tts-mkvii-volkswagen-golf-gti-r.html

Link to a very popular dogbone mount made of aluminum:
https://store.034motorsport.com/mqb...golf-gti-r-8v-audi-a3-s3-billet-aluminum.html

Link to a "dismiss the GF's whining about NVH, I wanna racecar mount. Will prevent majority of tranny/engine sway:
https://store.blackforestindustries.com/bfimk7mqbst2.html

Word of caution: If you upgrade your stock dogbone/ torque arm insert to a stiffer aftermarket design and forget about it for 10s of thousands of miles, more than likely the added stress onto the other two mounts has accelerated the wear of the OEM material.

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7) Changing/Upgrading to Aftermarket Shifters/Parts
Although this is not a DIY, or sometimes very cheap, it is a popular option that can completely change the dynamic of the shifter. If you are looking to change the WAY in which the car goes into gear, this is your route. The previous mods are mostly geared towards those looking to keep the oem set-up, but want to clean and smooth it up on the stock parts. However, a multitude of aftermarket shifters and adapters exists. Do your research before buying however, as most short throw shifters will reduce the distance the knob travels at the expense of smoothness sought doing the above mods. Aside from a complete shifter assembly (which can range from 100-300$), there is an adapter that is made by Boomba which simply sits on top of your stock shifter, changing the angles in which the arm rotates the shifter.

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8) Changing your Shift Knob.
Not a lot of people look at the shift knob as causing a problem in engagement feel in MT cars. However, the mk7s seem to have an enormous following for aftermarket shift knobs. Why? Because the OEM knob albeit stylish, is semi-HOLLOW. That's right. Hollow. This means every single notch, scratch, bump and jitter that your shifter feels is shot straight into your hand! This knob makes the MT on the mk7 feel worse than it really is. It is also relatively light, which increases the amount of force the user must apply to go into gear. There are many, many aftermarket shift knobs available in a variety of weights and styles. The most popular and highest reviewed seem to be those made by Black Forest Industries.

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9) Upgrading your Clutch Line.
There are many that swear by aftermarket clutch lines. Although there is little performance change to be had, aftermarket clutch lines REDUCE the amount of variances plastic or rubber lines go through on a daily basis. Most OEM lines are consistently in a state of flux. From constricting to loosening to contracting, they can be the last thing from "consistent." Upgrading your OEM clutch line to a steel braided design or other material will provide consistency in the way your foot signals the disc to work. It can make a much more consistent pedal press and engagement point over the course of a day of driving. (A man once told me steel lines are to clutch assemblies as intercoolers are to F.I. engines). They resist variances caused by changing temperatures much better than stock materials.


NOTE: Upgrading to a SS Clutch line or similar design can also be used to bypass the "swirl-delay" valve found on the clutch line. Again, this is another delaying valve that functions similarly to the clutch delay valve (mk7 delay valves 4 dayz!). By forcing the fluid to recirculate in a "snail"-shaped valve within the clutch line, the clutch engagement is dampened in feel and function. Going with a straight-through design can bypass this silly do-hickey and quicken engagement communication. This could possibly be done by a DIY, but with a new line so cheap why start cutting away at factory lines?

Link to a Stainless Steel Design by USP: https://www.uspmotorsports.com/Volk...Stainless-steel-clutch-line-Audi-VW-6spd.html
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10) Maintenance and Skill!

The two words that have the BIGGEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK when talking about mk7 6MTs. Care for your clutch, fluid and components and they will care for you. No aftermarket part in the world or fantastic DIY mod will ever come close to even half the value as pure, MT-driving skill. Learning how to properly drive (really, properly drive) a 6MT is worth it's weight in gold on forced-induction motors. Your ability to shift efficiently and quickly in a safe and non-damaging manner is the ultimate DIY mod.

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The order of the above mods is no accident. This is my recommendation (in order) for smoothing and quickening the stock MT feel. They all compliment each other and doing all the DIY mods alone will vastly improve your shifting experience and pleasure. Happy Driving :):):cool::cool:.
I got the holy shift kit and couldn't be more pleased. Took a little getting used to because I wasn't used to the gears actually wanting to go right in. Sloppiness is gone which is huge and cuts down on missing a shift accidentally. Wasn't too bad to install either.
 

bentin

Autocross Champion
Location
Austin, TX
Car(s)
23 Golf R - 3 Pedals
How’s the side to side slop? Did it help with that too? Have you done the SuperPin? I plan on doing both on the next one.
 

Audi Junkie

Passed Driver's Ed
Location
PA
The thing to know about MTF is that the VW oem MTF is very thin, thinner than ATF at 6cSt or less. It's for MPG gains. Old School 75w-90 GEAR Oil is operating 3x thicker at 15cSt, which is partly why you should never use a 90 weight GL-5 GEAR Oil in a MT, *despite what tuner shops sell for MT lube*. The other reason to skip GL-5 GEAR oil (75w-90) is that it's too slick for proper synchro engagement, they need more friction to grab the next gear and spin up. Thus the GL-4 spec, it's about coefficient of friction, not that 5 is better than 4, lol.

So, what is the benefit of swapping away from oem MTF? If your car is tuned to add more than a few HP, the thin oem fluid is too thin for wear control, *depending on driving style*. A slightly thicker fluid will run quieter and smoother, and is in fact the dealer "fix" for noisy gear boxes. Potential for mpg loss is there, since LV driveline fluids are optimised for MPG (not for wear or extreme conditions)

Redline has some great White Papers on driveline fluids. Redline distinguishes between GL-4 and GL-5, not selling combo fluids like Royal Purple and other junk. The Redline midweight MTL and MT-85 (?) around 10-12cSt for Asian cars are ideal for VAG / GTI. I would always select Redline, or AMSoil but really Pennzoil Synchromesh is easy to find and cheap. Basically a midweight GL-4 that's formulated to replace every other MTF ever made, at about 9cSt. I've even used the Valvoline Synchromesh from Amazon, dirt cheap and works great. Stay away from Royal Purple or Lucas, that crap can't even resist corrosion.

amsoilgearoil.jpg


Actual GL-5 Gear Oil for diffs is a no brainer, with Mobil 1 very easy to find and not expensive. Mobil 1 75w-90 replaces oem 80 and 85 LV gear oils, to state the obvious. ATF makes a great MTF for extreme cold (Dexron VI) while 75w-90 is an obvious fail in cold when used in a man trans....5x thicker in cold than Synchromesh or ATF or VW oem. I can't believe tuners sell 75w-90 for manual trans fluid!

viscgearoil.jpg


https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/prod...ls/synchromesh-manual-transmission-fluid.html
 
Last edited:

GTI Jake

Autocross Champion
Location
Charlotte, NC
The thing to know about MTF is that the VW oem MTF is very thin, thinner than ATF at 6cSt or less. It's for MPG gains. Old School 75w-90 GEAR Oil is operating 3x thicker at 15cSt, which is partly why you should never use a 90 weight GL-5 GEAR Oil in a MT, *despite what tuner shops sell for MT lube*. The other reason to skip GL-5 GEAR oil (75w-90) is that it's too slick for proper synchro engagement, they need more friction to grab the next gear and spin up. Thus the GL-4 spec, it's about coefficient of friction, not that 5 is better than 4, lol.

So, what is the benefit of swapping away from oem MTF? If your car is tuned to add more than a few HP, the thin oem fluid is too thin for wear control, *depending on driving style*. A slightly thicker fluid will run quieter and smoother, and is in fact the dealer "fix" for noisy gear boxes. Potential for mpg loss is there, since LV driveline fluids are optimised for MPG (not for wear or extreme conditions)

Redline has some great White Papers on driveline fluids. Redline distinguishes between GL-4 and GL-5, not selling combo fluids like Royal Purple and other junk. The Redline midweight MTL and MT-85 (?) around 10-12cSt for Asian cars are ideal for VAG / GTI. I would always select Redline, or AMSoil but really Pennzoil Synchromesh is easy to find and cheap. Basically a midweight GL-4 that's formulated to replace every other MTF ever made, at about 9cSt. I've even used the Valvoline Synchromesh from Amazon, dirt cheap and works great. Stay away from Royal Purple or Lucas, that crap can't even resist corrosion.

View attachment 280288

Actual GL-5 Gear Oil for diffs is a no brainer, with Mobil 1 very easy to find and not expensive. Mobil 1 75w-90 replaces oem 80 and 85 LV gear oils, to state the obvious. ATF makes a great MTF for extreme cold (Dexron VI) while 75w-90 is an obvious fail in cold when used in a man trans....5x thicker in cold than Synchromesh or ATF or VW oem. I can't believe tuners sell 75w-90 for manual trans fluid!

View attachment 280290

https://www.pennzoil.com/en_us/prod...ls/synchromesh-manual-transmission-fluid.html

So why does WaveTrac specifically call out for OEM fill or Motul Gear 300 75w90?

Just playing devils advocate here, they specifically say not to use anything with friction modifiers because the “Wave” design will not grab using “slicker” fluids/additives.
 

MonkeyMD

Autocross Champion
So why does WaveTrac specifically call out for OEM fill or Motul Gear 300 75w90?

Just playing devils advocate here, they specifically say not to use anything with friction modifiers because the “Wave” design will not grab using “slicker” fluids/additives.
My mechanic says the same thing and refuses to use anything else like redline
 
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