Thanks for the helpful tips.dtran, I am lurking but taking notes-
And will just say- you are not wrong to be frustrated- the Mk7 has both a clutch delay valve that slows the actual movement of the clutch so you arent getting actual engagement from what your foot is doing, and a swirl valve in the OEM clutch line that also slows the clutch fluid a bit,
AND an electronic throttle that is NOT linear- ie you push down an inch, you expect X throttle...instead its more of a rate of change over time- "you push down and after a bit you get more throttle". You are not the only one wishing for an easy fix on this- If you go to vortex, and a thread here at golfmk7, searching "direct throttle" you will see discussions about some coding changes available using VCDS in the OBD11 UI and even in the later adaptation to iphones by CARISTA, where people swear they got a more linear, predictable response in "direct throttle"... (and some good info debunking it as placebo effect)
so you arent the only one trying to understand it, or improve on it.
Now, for the new learner- yes, its frustrating. Especially if you come from older MT platforms without this tech.
Put the two non-linear reactions of two variables together,
and contrast with what you expect when you move your feet together, and
it makes the subsequent actual action of the engagement somewhat "herky jerky" vs desired "smooth"...
Especially if you are trying to get a shift quickly- which you are experiencing MOST in first and second because you are moving the most mass from a fixed or slow momentum state to a higher one...
And so, naturally- to be smooth and eliminate that herky jerky you try easing the clutch in... hoping that partial engagement will smooth it- and it does but thats ALSO hard to do smoothly, too- because its ALSO subject to the same delay...and burning your clutch in the process, to no good anyway, other than the "smoothness" effect...
I also was VERY frustrated learning how to be smooth, and stubborn old man that I am, having driven stick since 1970 Beetle, and Porsche, and ....too many other different cars, trucks, with sticks, to count-
I also tried various tricks or alternate techniques at first, including like you "feathering" in first and second, between gears,
or dumping the clutch, at higher gears, anything I could think of to try to get faster AND smoother shifts-
which undoubtedly was harder on clutch based on burned smell from time to time, and replacing it at 29K.
I may have also developed a bad habit of leaving my clutch foot occasionally hovering over the pedal, to make smooth but fast shifts- which might come in handy to save your life on oily, rainy, icy roads, in tight or sweeping downhills, especially in tight traffic surrounded by semis with drunken fools returning from Vegas on a Sunday, so you can use engine braking AND brakes while having power down to accelerate into a gap as needed.
And if you are very tired, you might even leave your foot on the clutch, riding it, and burning it...without noticing.
So, get in the habit of resting your left foot on the rest bump, when not shifting.
And before any pencil d1ck wannabe racer jumps in here and says "waaal you shoulda coulda known bettah!...
uh, no, I didnt and couldnt, becuz...
even the two VW mastertechs and service manager at my otherwise really good VW dealer where I purchased it were unable to explain it- a couple times- me trying to explain the odd sensation of crappy shifts, and that weird, delayed almost 'feedback loop' of clutch-engine interaction- what others call "herky jerky"... (see Christof Ambrosh- a multiple VW owner and VW technician)
I even asked if there might be something going on in the haldex clutch to give sloppy drivetrain feel...
And see, they weren't racers either- and the slow and careful granny shifting they used to test drive it, thats needed on the Mk7 doesnt show up this problem -
And so the problem of CDV and non-linear throttle was not as well known, or even "unknown to the casual user (like you and me)" -
its only after a year after MY16 did this issue start to pop up with expert discussion in vortex and here-
and you would have had to be reading intently looking for it, back in 2017.
Maybe if you were at the track, or hanging with tuners, you might... but thats not me, or you, or most of us lurking trying to learn something more than average- and trying to be smooth on MT, too.
So,
1. no you are not wrong- this is not how it should be, if you want to maximize the platform*-
and
2. yes, you are smart to ask about it instead of continuing to struggle frustrated...
What you are trying to learn is the "slower, wait for the clutch and throttle to catch up" (including rev hang*),
that by CDV and the way the ECS processes the throttle input, has essentialy "nannyized the 6MT" in its OEM configuration,
possibly to make up for the somewhat soft OEM clutch that VW built into the mk7,
that some theorize may have been to avoid warranty repair on the drive train if the clutch were NOT nannyized,
and people could do faster shifts.
The clutch is a wear item- like brakes, so if you or others like me, burn it excessively while in the warranty period- big deal- we pay.
And by inserting a CDV and non-linear throttle, VW has less sudden or excessive wear and tear, especially on the AWD and haldex clutches.
(which had their issues in earlier generations, I read) that are expensive items to repair or replace under warranty.
OK that was kind of a rant and I hope not a conspiracy theory-
anyone here feel free to chime in where I am wrong...
ideally if you are an automotive engineer, racer/tuner, or someone who actually works on VWs modding them for the last 20 years,
but back to the OP's original question:
So, what do you do to get smooth, especially in first and second?
Slow it down a bit on your "clutch expectations", ie
clutch pedal in, make the shift, clutch pedal out but roll the throttle on smoothly, instead of all at once,
so the amount of acceleration you want is happening as the clutch is actually engaging.
Then you wont get that sort of pause then jerk as the CDV valve lets the fluid move the clutch onto the friction pad.
Or burn as its engaging but your RPM are too high.
Dont try to time it- the CDV is there as your nanny to make it smoother.
Just dont expect a fast shift.
Keep practicing, as it sounds like you already have the initial hang of it.
I did, after second try on the new clutch- thanks to some advice here and off line, NOT the VW dealer and service writers, who dont know as much as the average here on GolfMk7 or vortex...and god bless 'em sometimes feel necessary to make shit up to calm the old OCD guy down a bit...
As you are noticing - Slow is Smooth, and then Smooth is Fast,
and sounds like you are getting more accustomed to the timing, and nternalized the delay and able to subconciously time the increased throttle to hit WHEN the clutch is fully engaged.
As far as rev hang goes- see what a couple above have suggested about rolling off the throttle before the shift- its a subtle and tricky feeling to get it just right, so that the motor/flywheel/engaged clutch has lost momentum from the letting off the gas, but no so much that you feel it in slowing the car down.
You can also try shifting from 1 to 3, as the revs are closer. And from 3 to 6, or 2 to 4, 4 to 6.
You dont have to row through all the gears, just know where the shift points are...
Go out on a long stretch of deserted highway and notice where the torque kicks in- or search for some of the charts that tuners put out- see APRs, for example, for where the HP and torque curve tips over at what RPM.
Now, downshifting, thats another lesson and I defer to those with more race or autorx experience here.
* maximize the platform; 1. remove clutch delay valve (search for how, or just buy the ECS clutch bleed valve kit that replaces it, without restriction), 2. Stainless steel clutch lines (which eliminate the swirl valve) 3. pedal tuner if you want faster throttle response
4. lighter DMF clutch when time comes, to hopefully reduce rev hang some. Others opine the UM tune helps with this, a bit. No way to know for sure other than "plug and chug" in new parts, as we need MOAR DATA, not butt dyno...
As an update, I have gotten pretty smooth at shifting. The big gear ratio from 1st to 2nd still cause some jerkiness if I'm lazy to smooth out the clutch. If I'm in a hurry I don't wait for the rpm to match before letting off clutch; if that case I do let the clutch out slower so the revs fall to match second sooner. I know it slips the clutch a bit but very smooth transition.
Thanks
