How would you hear it with 2 stock cats, the noise difference from stock to a 5x5" racecat mounted at the turbo is huge under load.Anyone here with a stock car and has the Burble option? I've had it on my Stage 1 and I NEVER heard a peep. Not sure if bug or its just that quiet that I cannot hear it from within the car.
Looks good but you should consider an IC upgrade before summer temps.
Just wanted to follow up on this after trying a couple things.Hi fellas,
I just flashed EQT Stage 1 93 on my bone stock 2019 DSG Rabbit, running Costco 93 in Illinois. Still waiting for them to reply with the EQT DSG tune so we're running the Cobb Sport+ on the DSG. The car does, indeed, rip on this tune. 3rd gear pulls look fine but in 4th we get some consistent KR in the 3-4 range (see logs below), overall pretty similar to what JJ_MK7 finds.
3rd gear pull 1
3rd gear pull 2
4th gear pull 1
4th gear pull 2
Any thoughts or troubleshooting suggestions are appreciated. We're at 24k mi (90% interstate but lots of canyon sends too), so maybe time for plugs soon? I'll also try Shell 93 in my next tank and see if that helps.
The old spark plug looks fine.Just wanted to follow up on this after trying a couple things.
First, I first swapped in some NGK RS7's gapped to 0.024". Here's how they compared to the originals:
View attachment 206080
I've never done plugs before so I have no point of reference for how good or bad the old ones may have been. I wanna say maybe the car ran smoother after the swap but it's hard to rule out placebo effect.
I tried some pulls on Mobil 93 on the Stage 1 91 tune (still v2.50) and everything looked great. I then popped the Stage 1 93 tune (also v2.50) back on. The KR numbers were exactly the same, so we can rule out both bad plugs and Costco 93 as the issue. Maybe it is just lousy winter blend after all. We'll be running the 91 tune for now...
I came here looking for this info! I have been getting lots of knock on EQT and everyone just says “glovebox”. Sorry. Knock across all cylinders @ WOT is an issue. Switching to 5150Just to input to the original question, I ran EQT Stage 2 OTS map for around 4 months and had lots of knock retard and other issues, felt like the engine was really straining itself. I referred to Jon at 5150 and his THOTS Stage 2 tune and the car feels like it should have come from the factory this way. The power is smooth and usable, not overly aggressive and harsh (my experience with the EQT map). Not sure if im an outlier but the 5150 map has been far superior than the EQT.
I came here looking for this info! I have been getting lots of knock on EQT and everyone just says “glovebox”. Sorry. Knock across all cylinders @ WOT is an issue. Switching to 5150
Real question is have you put any efforts into diagnostics of WHY you’re getting higher knock retards in all cylinders?I came here looking for this info! I have been getting lots of knock on EQT and everyone just says “glovebox”. Sorry. Knock across all cylinders @ WOT is an issue. Switching to 5150
I guess maybe I didn’t word that right. I was between eqt and 5150 from day one. I went with eqt and haven’t been impressed. I did reach out to eqt and was told to put the AP in the glovebox even showing a log with knock in all 4 at WOT in the upper rev range and it wasn’t a blip, we’re talking like -4°.So you were searching for what you wanted to hear so you could justify switching tuners? Did I read that right?
Nobody here says a lot of knock at WOT is normal. A little pull every now and then is pretty normal. You get guys asking all the time (especially on FB) if 1*KR on one cylinder for ~300rpms is safe which is why everyone’s knee jerk reaction is to say “glovebox”. That being said if you are having sustained knock across multiple cylinders I think there might be another cause. I would attempt to troubleshoot with your current tune before switching. My 2c.
Yes I did. Between 5000ish and 6500ish knock across all 4 While WOTDid you log it to see the knock?
Yes. I’ve run logs. Switched fuels. Tried adding E. Running step colder plugs. Contacted my tuner.Real question is have you put any efforts into diagnostics of WHY you’re getting higher knock retards in all cylinders?
It’s running one step colder plugs gapped to 0.24 & I can pull them and check the gap on them again. See if maybe one is incorrect, but I gapped them myself with a feeler gauge.Usually when people see knock on a stage 1 or 2 tune it's because they didn't verify the gap of their plugs, they aren't running 1 step colder, or they've got bad gas.
I've seen too many people ignore the recommendations for spark plugs and then they wonder why they have knock. I went a little overboard and installed NGK R7437-8's before I installed my tune. The gap was a little different for each plug so I had to gap them to .024 myself, but after a year and a half I've had 0 problems with knock between every revision I've ran.
I don't take chances with that kind of thing anymore. When I had my mk6 it was recommended to upgrade the coilpacks, but nobody told me it was a requirement. You know what happened when I was trying to drive home the day I tuned the car? I blew a coilpack. I was left stranded in a parking lot and only 1 auto part store in town had any coilpacks. After that I would tell everybody coilpacks are a requirement. I'd say the same goes with spark plugs and tunes on the mk7s. A tiny bit of knock shouldn't leave you stranded, but you might as well upgrade your car properly and do things right, so I consider plugs a requirement even if it's just a stage 1 tune.