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Hoon's DIYish Engine Build Thread

Hoon

Autocross Champion
Location
Rhode Island
Didn't even really think about the exhaust housing and DP being right next to Cyl1. Furthest along the fuel rail too. That poor cylinder..... How someone can destroy say Cyl3 before 1 is beyond me.....

I'll have to confirm, but I also think it's the end of the water flow circuit.
 

PowerDemon

Autocross Champion
Location
Richmond, VA
Car(s)
Golf GTI, Camaro ZL1
That seems stupid.

69ceaf0343d887beb5819c93c543e00f6cece41cfaba197533c4abe1eb6caddf.jpg
 

billbadass

Drag Racing Champion
Location
your moms house
super interesting discussion. sounds like you just fried that ring with too much heat.

so is the solution for cyl1 as simple as run full E85 and try to put the highest flowing injector on that cyliner to run it a touch more rich? or is it possible with COBB or any other tuning solution to just put a little more fuel on that cylinder? is there anyway to get the car to run at a sustained lower coolant temp maybe?

wonder if oil sprayers would help on this, but maybe just a real race ring that can tolerate the temp is the fix

I'm not sure a turbo blanket and downpipe wrap would make a difference but open to being wrong if you guys think otherwise. Maybe that guy with the is20 car running without a hood was actually onto something.

On the LS motors we had "steam vent" kits that were plumbing to help get fresh coolant to the back cylinders that were last in line on the coolant passages, and also allow steam bubbles in the coolant that occur along the cylinder liners to rise off them and upwards back into the coolant. zero idea how to do something like that on these cars though. In my last fast car though (LS) I was heating up the back #7 cylinder a lot and putting in the steam vent kit, getting a 185* thermostat, and then putting my highest flowing injector in that cylinder fixed the issue, but I've heard of some guys going so far as to put a spark plug one full heat range colder than the rest of the cylinder in the hot one.

I've used methanol on past cars and initially I liked it a lot but as I pushed the car and learned more about the fuel distribution issues and how dangerous pump gas in bigger power builds I won't be using methanol on future cars anymore actually. just better to run good fuel.
 
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PowerDemon

Autocross Champion
Location
Richmond, VA
Car(s)
Golf GTI, Camaro ZL1
So we are in agreement that heat is the killer on these high horsepower hybrid builds. Logically then it makes sense to try and keep EGT’s as low as possible.

Fueling is the most important and Hoon you’ve already got that covered with your fuel setup as you mentioned but how much does a properly setup exhaust contribute in keeping the EGT’s low?

For most turbo guys (LS, Coyote, Etc) less restriction means less heat which means more power which is why you see so many fender exit cars now lol. So then my question is how much would a properly setup exhaust contribute to lowering the EGTs on our platform? Ignoring any sort of power gain if you ran a 3.5-4” catless DP with a properly built 3” exhaust and a straight through muffler would you see a significant decrease in EGT’s at this level? I think it would make a noticeable difference. Just food for thought.
 

aaronc7

Autocross Champion
Location
USA
Car(s)
17 S3
super interesting discussion. sounds like you just fried that ring with too much heat.

so is the solution for cyl1 as simple as run full E85 and try to put the highest flowing injector on that cyliner to run it a touch more rich? or is it possible with COBB or any other tuning solution to just put a little more fuel on that cylinder? is there anyway to get the car to run at a sustained lower coolant temp maybe?

wonder if oil sprayers would help on this, but maybe just a real race ring that can tolerate the temp is the fix

I'm not sure a turbo blanket and downpipe wrap would make a difference but open to being wrong if you guys think otherwise. Maybe that guy with the is20 car running without a hood was actually onto something.

On the LS motors we had "steam vent" kits that were plumbing to help get fresh coolant to the back cylinders that were last in line on the coolant passages, and also allow steam bubbles in the coolant that occur along the cylinder liners to rise off them and upwards back into the coolant. zero idea how to do something like that on these cars though.

I've used methanol on past cars and initially I liked it a lot but as I pushed the car and learned more about the fuel distribution issues and how dangerous pump gas in bigger power builds I won't be using methanol on future cars anymore actually. just better to run good fuel.

Yep.... cylinder 7 went on my LS6. Not even a boosted motor, but it went out on road course. Same sorta situation.... end of the intake manifold so it probably gets more flow, end of cooling circuit. It's hard to say after the fact but I believe it was also heat related. I think the ring gap ends butted up and created even more heat, and finally the top of the piston gave out and broke off. I also had a crack in the cylinder liner right alone the same axis as the cooling jacket. Bunch of LS1s fail this way apparently. Also that piston no longer freely rotated at the wrist pin, heat damage probably.

Anyways, wider ring gap is usually the fix for those kind of issues. This seems to be a little different though.
 

billbadass

Drag Racing Champion
Location
your moms house
So we are in agreement that heat is the killer on these high horsepower hybrid builds. Logically then it makes sense to try and keep EGT’s as low as possible.

Fueling is the most important and Hoon you’ve already got that covered with your fuel setup as you mentioned but how much does a properly setup exhaust contribute in keeping the EGT’s low?

For most turbo guys (LS, Coyote, Etc) less restriction means less heat which means more power which is why you see so many fender exit cars now lol. So then my question is how much would a properly setup exhaust contribute to lowering the EGTs on our platform? Ignoring any sort of power gain if you ran a 3.5-4” catless DP with a properly built 3” exhaust and a straight through muffler would you see a significant decrease in EGT’s at this level? I think it would make a noticeable difference. Just food for thought.

this guy said picked up 300-400rpm faster spool with 4" downpipe also on his mk7 even through his normal exhaust,

 

daconchslop

Autocross Champion
Location
SC
Car(s)
ACS SE/Tech
I've seen a few MK7s burn down from turbo blankets or downpipe wraps... Ceramic coating is the best bet to combat heat without the risk of burning your car down.
Is that from oil saturated fabrics?
 

jimlloyd40

Autocross Champion
Location
Phoenix
Car(s)
2018 SE DSG
I've seen a few MK7s burn down from turbo blankets or downpipe wraps... Ceramic coating is the best bet to combat heat without the risk of burning your car down.

If that's the case I hope the Cerakote coating on my TPC20 is helping.
 
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